Heated oxygen sensor

[Peer81]

Hello everybody,

I want to replace the oxygen sensor in my 81 and upgrade to a heated one. I was thinking to get the Bosch 13077 (3 wire) and also get another female 3 wire connector to hook everything up. The wiring in the wiring harness isn't a problem but i want to know, is there something to look for when choosing a oxygen sensor. This besides brand, before or after the cat, number of wires etc etc.

Greetings Peter

 

[bill81vette]

I didn't know there was such a thing,Peter....

 

[Peer81]

Hello Bill,

I got it from somebody with a 84 TBI.
The sensor is up to temp within 30 seconds so the ECM only has to wait on the coolant temp to get about a 150F (If I remember correctly) to get to closed loop.

Big benefit besides that is when your idleling alot, the engine doesn't go into open loop because the O2 sensor has cooled down to much.

I still have to look at the wiring harness (and diagram) to get 12V from somewhere (in Acc and run position) but from the top of my mind I think the choke heater lead wire will do just fine.

The Bosch heated sensor and other connector are on its way to the Netherlands

Groeten Peter

 

[LLC5]

The Bosch heated sensor and other connector are on its way to the Netherlands

Groeten Peter

Bosch is a good choice.

 

[Peer81]

Bosch is a good choice.

And here is the weird thing about it.

The bosch heated sensor is around $40 to $50 in the States.
The same! Bosch heated sensor will cost me 98 euro's in the Netherlands!! :bash
I think the USPS package will be here next week

Greetings Peter

 

[LLC5]

And here is the weird thing about it.

The bosch heated sensor is around $40 to $50 in the States.
The same! Bosch heated sensor will cost me 98 euro's in the Netherlands!! :bash
I think the USPS package will be here next week

Greetings Peter

Sorry to hear about the USPS shipping


Seriously though, good luck with your project.

 

[LannyL81]

Peter,
I installed a heated one on my 81 when I put the side exhaust/headers in. Had to use a heated one. Hope the one you got has as high of resistance as they make cause our cars do not shut off the current to the O2...it will be on all the time....shorting their life.

You could put a switch in yours but you would have to remember to flip the switch at every stop light or whatever you call them in your country.

If you do not drive it alot, then you should be okay without the switch.

I used a Denso one....just not able to say what the part number was at this time. Wiring is simple....usually the two black wires on the sensor lines and the other (purple) is for +12V. Return is through the body. I made a pigtail out of the original O2 sensor for the sensor lead, and just wrapped the other two around that harness. I pulled +12V from the distributor cap as it is switched.

Good luck with yours.

LannyL81

 

[Peer81]

Hello Lanny,

Thanks for the info. I don't know for how long the oxygen sensor will be working but I'll see. I will only use the vette in the summer when it is sunny so I think about 3000miles per year max.

This sensor is the same as the front sensor on a C4 ZR1, not that this would make a big difference but I think other cars also have the current on the heating element all the time.

This sensor has 1 black wire and 1 white. On the internet I found somebody that said the black one is for the oxygen signal and the two white ones are for the heating element (makes no difference which is current or ground). But I'll check before I begin

Greetings Peter

 

[Peer81]

I installed the oxygen sensor yesterday.
First I checked which wires were for the sensor and for the heating element. I found there was resistance between the two white wires and I didn't find any connection between the black and the white wires. This gave me the idea like found on the internet the two white wires are for the heating element. Test connected them to a 12v source and yes the heating element worked.

Then I looked at the wiring diagram from the electric choke. As the element is connected to a check bulb in the dash I didn't find it a good idea to also connect the oxygen sensor to this 12v source. I think when the choke had failed the bulb wouldn't light up because the oxygen sensor would still be working and that isn't a good idea.
And number 2, the 12v from the distributor cap is just inches away and the wire is alot thicker then the choke wire. So I got the 12v also from the distri. cap and connected it to the new female connector.

I only checked if the heating element was working with key on 12v and it was heating up. Now let's see for how long it will be working properly.

Greetings Peter

 

[ironmoo]

I've been following this thread. Very interesting. I may go with a heated Ox sensor as well.

Cheers!

-MoO