Help--Oil pan leaks!

[lnirenberg]

I have the original base small block engine with presumably the original oil pan and and it is leaking around the edges. I have tightened the bolts but am afraid to apply too much torque for fear of snapping one off. Can the pan be removed without lifting the engine? The pan has some nice dents on the bottom and I am thinking that the edge is out of square, or I am just in need of a new oil pan gasket? I'm thinking of buying a new pan and gasket but would need to do the job with the car on jack stands--is this possible (or necessary)? All relevant thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

The pan can be removed by lowering the suspension components. This post documents my oil pump replacement, which obviously involved removing the pan.

 

[Jack]

oil pan gasket is thicker at front for 75 up ... so 74 & earlier use a thin-front gasket.

Felpro one piece op gasket for 71 sbc is felpro P/N 1885. If you have a OE 71 pan, use 1885.

Felpro one piece op gasket for 75 up sbc is felpro P/N OS34510T.

The difference is the oil pan itself (front of oil pan) ... blocks' & timing covers' flange-heights are same. Most brand new aftermarket performance pans are configured for the later (75 up) thick front.
JACK:gap

 

[twoseater]

I just took mine off and am getting ready to put it back on. No need to pull engine but I had a heck of a time with the steering linkages - which must be moved out of the way (at least on my 80). Tried to get it off with some hammer hits to the sides (some people have luck with them popping off), went to the puller, no luck and finally the fork.

I'm fairly new to automotive work and was advised that you only need to disconnect the idler arm on the passenger side and the pitman arm on the drivers. However, I found it nearly impossible to get the correct angle on the pitman arm. I had to pull off the tire on the drivers side and go at it from the wheel well - it was the only way I could gain access to it.

I ended up deciding to replace it all so I ended up removing everything BUT I was told that if you take it off at those two point you should have enough room to get the oil pan out and not have to worry about getting it aligned. I'm a newbie and just passing on advice as told to me so take it for what its worth!

 

[TWINRAY]

Sometimes tightening old original ie: petrofied gaskets, will result in a worse leak than before. They usually have no compression ability and will crack. I had this problem on Valve Cover gaskets on an '85 S10 Blazer. The leak got much worse when I tried to tighten the valve cover nuts. I finally replaced the gaskets which took, believe it or not, 7 hours. When I finally got the valve covers off, the gaskets came off in pieces.

 

[Space Cowboy]

I can confirm what twinray stated. I tightened my pan bolts and the leaks got worse. I've been told that the gasket will buldge and looses its seal.

 

[goertz]

the pans are pretty flexible, so dents in the bottom will not likely cause a leak at the top. It's probably just gasket time. pull the pan, and put it on the bench. smack out whatever dents you have, and put it back on with new gaskets.

 

[Tweek]

After you figure out which gasket you need, make sure you spray all the bolt holes out with cleaner, and maybe chase the threads, and clean the bolts. When you install the new gasket be sure to use some thread locker on the bolts and torque to spec so they don't come loose. I use a long straight edge to check the pan for flatness along the bolt flange.