Help...Radiator wont fit !*&!!

[cmegga]

Some one here turned me on to a great buy on a Northern Radiator threw SpeedWay for $169. It fit the car, but the lower hose fitting is pointed out in the wrong direction ! I cant get the hose hooked up with out folding it in half.


What to do ? Is there any kind of "u" shapped fittting I can put on ? Or should I start seeing someone who can weld aluminum?

 

[Jack]

Some one here turned me on to a great buy on a Northern Radiator threw SpeedWay for $169. It fit the car, but the lower hose fitting is pointed out in the wrong direction ! I cant get the hose hooked up with out folding it in half. What to do ? Is there any kind of "u" shapped fittting I can put on ? Or should I start seeing someone who can weld aluminum?

That someone was likely yours truly. Sorry you're having trouble w/ universal fit radiator. It can be a tight fit especially where lower outlet is near sway bar ... & year/model variations can make it even closer. The stock/OE-type (molded) lower hose probably will not fit. Have you tried the "universal fit" hoses as found at local parts store? ... the ones that are convoluted and have ridges kinda like an accordian? They're flexible (unlike molded) & come in various lengths and inside diameters. Your lower outlet od is probably 1-3/4" and wp snout probably same ... measure. BTW, the equivalent Griffin has lower outlet located in same place & at same angle.
JACK:gap

 

[cmegga]

Im not upset about the recomendation, it looks like a great unit for the price. Im glad I bought it ! I just hate these last minet set backs, which seem to be inevetable with these cars.


We consider a universal , but think I might have clearen problem need the motor. So now we going to try cutting the molded hose have way down and putting in a small section off pipe with a uniersal from there to the radiator.

It should work out for us, just have to get enough room to keep it from kinking,

 

[Jack]

If I were having this problem and I could not solve it with a single hose ... I would try to modify rad's outlet ... I have access to fab shop. But if an adapter & two hoses work for you, you shouldn't hesitate trying. If it don't leak & it ain't kinked ... you'll be fine.

Have you considered either raising or lowering entire rad? ... I know there's little wiggle room and it's a hassle to re-do the mounts ... just a thought.
JACK:gap

 

[cmegga]

Tryed moving the radiator, no luck. I have it in their loose and still cant get a fit.

 

[vette-dude]

I had a similiar problem on one of the pro street cars I built. I couldn't find a hose that was molded correctly so I went to the Hdwe store and bought a long piece of sink drain pipe ( i.e., P trap). These are brass inside with chrome plated outside. I found the correct molded end and used the existing old molded lower rad hose with the end cut off. Inserted the straight part of the P trap pipe cut to length, put the molded curved section on and fit to the radiator. I also double clamped both pieces on and used a little RTV on the inside of the hoses to insure it would not leak. I(t sounds like a Bubba fix but everyone asked me where I got that crome adaptor. It looked great and never leaked in the 4 years of hard running both on the street and the strip. Hey-- Necessity is the mother of invention!!

Randy

 

[MaineShark]

I like that idea, Randy.

Another thing baout using an adapter to make the bend: you can have a drain plug brazed or welded into the adapter. Makes it much easier to drain, then having to pull the hose off in those tight quarters.

Joe

 

[Jack]

JB:
While I'm sure it'll fit with some combination of massaging/hoses/adapters/outlet mod etc ... I have sense of responsibility since I did make recommendation ... I'll try to point you in the right direction as best I can from here.

Randy's idea sounds pretty good.

As before, I suggest a draincock bung be welded in ... you can see that dropping a lower hose could be difficult. If you do go with a draincock ... maybe that'd be an ideal opportunity to modify the lower outlet.
JACK:gap

 

[joebio]

Two things
First, where can I get one of those. Second let me know how you get it to work!

 

[cmegga]

After more home work here. Jegs has a BE Cool Part thats a 1 3/4 tube with a petcock built into it. Its hard to describe but check the link below. It may be the best solution for me here a $36.


http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1061&prmenbr=361


Item # 134-72016

 

[vette-dude]

Thats almost identical to the part I made out of the plumbing P trap. I didn't put the petcock in it though and it would be better if you had one. Second, this Jegs piece has ridges on the end to keep the hose nice and tight on the tube. Hey, now that I think about it the Jegs people did look over my car pretty thoroughly at Super Chevy some years back. Should have patented it but Noooooooo! :bash Looks like you got it whipped. See ya on the road.

Randy

 

[cmegga]

It be after the weekend , but Ill let you guy know how I made out.


Thanks for all the good feed back as always !

 

[69vettester]

I did a similar thing that Randy did a few years ago when I found I coulnt get an exact fitting lower Hose. I figured rather than fight a stock good fitting hose in a tight spot, Just make it fit and not worry about problems finding an exact hose.

Like whats been said, The choice of pipe you use will be important in the long run, for corrosion and coolant compatibility reasons.
Tom

 

[MaineShark]

cmegga: that looks good. I think I'll order one of those, rather than trying to invent something.

Here's an odd question, though: the lower cooling hose always seems to be problematic, as the spring can wear out, allowing the hose to collapse. Wouldn't a custom-bent pipe be a better method for getting the coolant where it needs to go? A short section of hose could be used at the upper end, to allow for engine twisting, and an even shorter section could be used to join the pipe to the radiator (just a few inches of hose and a pair of clamps).

Seems like an idea, to me...

I'll probably use regular hose to get it running, but if I can find a shop that can bend me a nice piece of aluminum pipe, I may give it a try, at some future time.

Joe

 

[tscott9330]

one little question. Where did you get the radaitor? Is it aluminum? and how much hp do think it will cool?

Thanks
Tom

 

[clar2001]

put your hose on then put the radiator in. if it doesen't fit think about sending it back and ordering one that would work.
My stock rad was a royal pain to get the bottom hose on, my new rad. a dewitts alumium the new hoses slid on rather easy.

 

[Jack]

one little question. Where did you get the radaitor? Is it aluminum? and how much hp do think it will cool? Thanks Tom

Speedway is now offering free radiator cap w/ $170 Aluminum "UNIVERSAL FIT" rad ... it's the 31 x 19 that I'd suggested & is P/N 9173471 ... it'll cool anything you're likely to come up with. We run same (actually narrower) rad in circle trackers ... some run 150 laps at Myrtle Beach ... some of the more creative guys are making nearly 500hp.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/produ...345,9173472,91734722,9180017,9180018,9189504%
JACK:gap

 

[cmegga]

Woo haa. Up and runnin.

It all worked out very nicley in the end. We eneded up finding a right angled hose at the local part store and putting that on the radiator outlet, cutting it off to an adapter peice of pipe and then into the factoy cut hose. Probably have $200 into it with the cost of the radiator. Very please with the end cost, as most all the other units I looked at we 350-500 for a griffin or Becool unit. Even a replacement Brass would have been $240.

She runs wonderful. I cant get it to move from 190 degrees in traffic, on the highway or just sitting still in the driveway!! Very nice as my old one had me all over the place temp wise.

Jack thanks for the recomendation and all the input, you save me quite a few pennies!!

 

[MaineShark]

A little update. I purchased one of those BeCool adapters from Jeg's, but I modified it a bit:

First, the sawn ends of the pipe were pretty rough, with a lot of "flash," so I cleaned that up with a file... don't want any of it breaking loose and flowing around in the engine.

Second, I broke out the ol' Dremel and cleaned up the interior weld where the two pieces of pipe are joined, since it was pretty rough, with some "spikes" that stuck in over 1/4"

Third, I changed the grinding wheel for one of those little milling bits, and took off most of the interior of the bung for the drain petcock. The actual petcock is primarily threaded into the portion of the bung that is external, so the internal portion is mostly just a restriction to the waterflow. So, I took off all but like 1/16-1/8" of the bung, which opened up quite a bit more of the pipe, and should reduce the amount of cavitation. (and, just in case anyone doesn't realize this, you need to take the petcock out while you do this, but you should periodically re-install it to check depth - also, it's a 14mm hex, not 9/16", so don't strip it trying to use the wrong wrench)

Lastly, I fired up the wire wheel and gave it a brushed finish, then put some Teflon tape on the petcock threads and re-installed it.

Joe