help-TPM system

[curt]

adI'm in a tire pressure monitoring nightmare. I have 2004 conv. I put on new tires this spring. First tire change, car has 22,000 mi. A few days later I got the tpm service message. All pressures reading xxxx. I tried to relearn but only left front would learn sometimes. I took it to a shop that specializes in only Corvettes and they replaced the receiving module. It was ok for awhile in short runs. When I drove for about an hour the message came back and the right front read xxxx. I could only learn left front. I dropped left front to 15 psi and drove around about 7 miles. No change in pressure about 32 psi. I went back to the repair shop and they said I had a bad sensor. I didn't think so because the GM hand held said they were transmitting. I replaced all four anyway because they were near the end of their lifespan. All was ok for short trips. On a long trip, about an hour, the message came back and left front is xxxx. The repair shop is now giving me the run around. Is there anyone who understands this system that can help. There is more things I've done but too much for one blog. Any help would be great , I'm desperate. Between this and the column lock problem has me cursing this car but I want to love it again.

 

[kpic]

Between this and the column lock problem has me cursing this car but I want to love it again.

If I am on the same page with you, I installed a CLB or column lock bypass kit. The kits come with a module and a device which you plug into the harness and the cigarette lighter. You'll hear a click and the steering is unlocked, next you plug the device in. I paid about $50 for the kit.

According to the instructions, once installed you'll never have the problem again.

 

[dadaroo]

OK, first of all pull your DIC codes. Record them, clear them, and wait until you have the issue again and then pull them and post.


As for CL:

I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problempermanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CLattempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows theinstall at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions.So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, theBCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versionsand they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Theircustomer support is as good as it gets.
Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lockcondition" and not know it and then start with the install. In otherwords, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actuallylocked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn thesteering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the lockedcondition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in theunlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuitsdisconnected.
Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks andunlocks normally:
If the CL isfunctioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignitionON, pull fuse #23, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right)and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal,re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.
Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html

 

[kpic]

Another way it can be done is with a test light. Connect the lighter's +12V to the purple wire on the Column Lock Motor to unlock your steering column.

I'm not sure the wire is purple in all years of C5. I've read if the dealer recalls/updates were installed, they must be removed; however, I do not know if that is correct or not.

 

[dadaroo]

With all do respect, I would not be putting power on wires without knowing what you are doing. You put power on a serial bus wire (and there is one that is purple under the dash) and you will fry your computer modules. Just get the LMC5 module and kiss all your CL issues goodbye. No need to disconnect any previous "fixes".

I will be glad to work with you and if necessary we can discuss your issues. Just PM me with your phone number and we can talk. I only joined here a short while again but I have worked on thousands of electrical/electronic issues on another forum.

BTW, You can get the RFA module at GMPartsHouse every day of the week. We need to work through your issues without just throwing parts at it.

 

[curt]

I have the lmc5 on order, It should be here today. I'm going to trust it will work so my biggest issue is with the tpm system. The last thing I wanr to do is to continue paying big bucks for parts I don't need.
My car is about 60 miles away. it won't go over 3 mph so if the lmc5 grts here today I will be going there tomorrow. I will pull codes then. If you are around dadaroo Hi

 

[kpic]

dadaroo
No problem.

Corvette C5 97-04 Column Lock Bypass Kit
Applying +12VDC is all the single pin inside adapter on the left at the link does; the ground is the vehicle. I know someone who bought one that is what a continuity check showed.
Mine locked because I let the battery voltage drop. After it happened it was a real wake up call so I ordered a kit. Installing one when there isn't a problem is easy. My recommendation would be buy one and install it before the educational experience.
I bought the Compliance Parts unit as it has the most professional made look to it.

All they are is depending on your source $12 to $20 in parts:
http://shelor.net/Z/CorvetteForum/Cscokd/CLB.pdf
I found this but by the time I would have bought all the parts and paid S&H from multiple sources, it was a lot quicker and less expensive to buy one already made.

From Compliance Parts
Q. Is there a way to unlock the steering column in an emergency, or if I didn't get an Unlocker?
A Yes. There are a few ways. But, due to legal and safety concerns, we do not provide complete information on a procedure that may damage very expensive parts of your Corvette's electrical system. If you have an emergency, i.e., your Vette is stuck somewhere and the risk to life or property outweighs the relatively small risk of damage to the electrical components, please contact us and we'll try to help. Basically, the steering column lock motor wires are briefly connected to 12 volts and ground. The LMC5 Unlocker contains a fuse that protects you and your car in the event that you accidentally touch the wires together, to ground, etc. Also, by performing the unlock procedure as recommended during the LMC5 installation, the risk of incorrectly connecting the Unlocker is virtually nil.

lmc5troubleshooting

I hold an Extra Class Ham ticket; so I approached it with a lot of research and still called a bud for a continuity test as I know the internet.

I do not understand IF the device works and they do work why the GM fixes need to be uninstalled. However, that is what some of the advice is; to do a T or F test, I'd need to see schematics for the fixes.

However, I would be very interested to learn how these kits with the device furnished on the left at the first link and others "briefly connect the lock motor wires."

Edit:
There are two harnesses, the original and the GM "Harness K" GM part no. 89023816 fix so there could be some truth in the uninstall the fix depending on what GM changed??

 

[dadaroo]

You are very correct you can power the CL motor in either direction by jumpering. I have all the schematics and connector/wire colors for the C5. I am just very reluctant to have people apply power to circuits unless they understand what they are doing and know exactly where they should apply the voltage.

Depending on what was done by a GM recall you may or may not need to undo anything to install a standard CLB device. That is why I like the LMC5 since it does not require that since everything is done at the BCM.

Got my Ham license at about age 15 some 50 years ago. Had to design and make all my equipment from used parts. Luckily I lived near an Army base and they would throw to a junk pile gear they did not want to keep or repair. For a young kid with little money that provided me really high quality parts, transformers, etc, for free.

Cuts problem is very interesting. The FSM does not say so but Forum experience says that XXXX means a bad battery at the sensor. I am not convinced that is his problem at this time. We'll be talking on the phone this weekend.

 

[kpic]

When I started digging I wasn't certain and as you said poking around when one doesn't know what they are doing means there is the potential of an expensive price for failure. However, a useless vehicle is a great motivator. If I could advise every Corvette C5 owner, I'd tell them to spend the money and buy one.
Due to weather, I have let the battery run down, but always charged it before trying to start it. So that may be how I ducked the problem in the past. I built a little float maintainer.

You got me, I never would have guessed a ham. In the 1960s, as I was faster than the instructor and as a result, I was kicked out of Morse class at Bragg.
My junk box is still filled with pulled components. Hard drive magnets make a great TMPS tool. We moved here two years ago and there has been so much to do my tower is still down. I have a Windom with the vertical radiator element, it is kinda similar to the ones Radio Works sells. A couple of months ago, I ran the 240 line for the amp. As we are close to the power company's transformer and not many other homes are near; the meter reads 122-123. As you know, it isn't 110V. I am getting there slowly.

This may sound silly, but the outside construction of the LMC5 impressed me more than the plastic boxes the others use.

"The LMC5 is designed to remain fully operational well below 4 volts,"
Unless I am totally misinterpreting the above, Compliance seems to support the low battery theory.

When you get it figured out, please post the results. I've read that for some reason a weak or dead battery makes the car believe someone is stealing it. The guys at the dyno shop told me as they were hauling so many cars to a dealer, they stock the kits.

 

[dadaroo]

Low battery voltage or low voltage via a degraded ignition switch (or other components) to one of the computer modules will make the electronics go NUTS. With low voltage in regard to the CL, the BCM cannot determine if the column is locked or not. Has nothing to do with theft. GM did want someone to drive the car if the column was locked or if the BCM did not know if it was locked or not. That's why the 2 mph limit if it can't tell. Low voltage is the cause of 99.9% of all CL issues.

PS: Do you have any tube testers? I do as I have several 50's juke boxes. Can't see IC chips working like tubes.

 

[kpic]

That is an interesting tidbit of info. I've read the theft scenario so often, I figured they knew what they were talking about. However why would a thief jump a car or unhook the battery to steal it. The internet bites again; ouch that hurt. LOL I read a lot, but don't believe if I am working on my own stuff.

Nope, I don't the only tubes I have are GE 6146Bs and a 12BY7A in my backup 530SP, 3X EIMAC 3-500z in an AMP Supply RF amp, and a few EIMAC tetrodes for an amp I never finished. I'm a CW DX'er so my rig's filters are tighter than Kenwood. The 530SP has too much drive for the Amp and lacks QSK.
I used to live near Camp David and they swap out tubes from the primary and backups. The backups have zero use. A Navy CPO saw a "metal" tube at the house and said he used one as a paperweight. He picked up a few for me from the dump. I have a Peter Dahl Hypersil transformer and a Jennings vacuum relay; just haven't gotten round 2 it.
I have a broadcast pull EIMAC 3-400z packed away also. I'm not a electronics guru; I'm a climber and antenna geek.

Usually the local Ham Club or one of the OTs will have one. Or in 4 states, I've never been around a Ham Club where one of the OTs didn't have one.

You can test the filament with an ohm meter, no resistance (usually you'll see low to 2.5 ohms) = shot. Any continuity from the filament to the other pins (between the grid or plate cap) usually = shot. Any loose "stuff" inside the tube = shot. The glass should be clear or brown, anything else = shot. TX tubes can lose vacuum (EIMAC seals), cracked glass and the glass has a whiteness to it = shot.
Dadaroo, I'm blunt, you help anyone with a Corvette who needs it, so call that a little payback for all you do.

ICs in a 1950s Rock-Ola/Wurlitzer/Seeburg is a sin. Not looking for a debate from others, but transistors lack the warm, full sound of tubes. Which one(s) do you have??

 

[dadaroo]

My favorite ones are my Seeburg R and V200. People are surprised when they see mostly very recent music in those 45 rpm ones. They have no idea that you can get new/recent 45 music. I also have a collection of wallboxes from almost every manufacturer. Do have some newer CD jukeboxes for the garages. As you can guess the wife is very happy with me. Still will not let me put any of my pinball machines in the house.

Kinda fun to have things that use my tube testers after all this time.

PS: The "real" security for the car is the ignition key "VATS" system. Remember in 2001 (I think that is the correct year), and above, the CL was done away with for automatics.

 

[k24556]

Cl

So, does that mean for 2001 or newer autos, there is no CL motor and therefore no need for a CLB? I thought all that was done was remove the detent disc in the steering column, but the motor still actuated.

I've owned several C5's over the years and have been stuck with low batt voltage and no way to get one home due to CL. CLB's provided a cure.

I had one C5 that was used as a commuter with several start/stops each day. When it got long in the tooth, I started having CL problems even with a fresh fully charged battery. My conclusion was that the CL motor got tired and worn and either did not fully retract in time or not at all, sending the "stop thief" message to the BCM. At any rate, a CLB provided a permanent cure.
PS: The "real" security for the car is the ignition key "VATS" system. Remember in 2001 (I think that is the correct year), and above, the CL was done away with for automatics. - See more at: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...613-help-tpm-system.html#sthash.1vmCwJAN.dpuf

PS: The "real" security for the car is the ignition key "VATS" system. Remember in 2001 (I think that is the correct year), and above, the CL was done away with for automatics. - See more at: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...613-help-tpm-system.html#sthash.1vmCwJAN.dpuf

 

[dadaroo]

I verified in 2001-2004 the autos did not have the CL feature. The 2001 FSM only shows the manual design. I don't know if the parts/wiring were deleted or just not used and the BCM control reprogrammed/redesigned. If you want to know, contact 8VETTE7 over at the Corvette Forum. He is "THE" CL Guru on every year, recall version, and CLB devices.

 

[curt]

interesting bulletin

I just received an interesting older bulletin concerning tpm problems. I'll have see about the constrution of the Michelins I just put on.
I can't figure out how to get the bulletin from my e-mail to here. This is about corvettes to 2001 but may be relevant. The sidewall construction of the tires may degrade the sensors signal. If I read it correctly, I believe if there is metal in the sidewalls there may be a problem. Back then there was a problem if the wrong Goodyear eagles were used. It might fit the problem I am having with my sensors. I'll try to get the bulletin here.

 

[dadaroo]

Here is the bulletin: