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Help- vinyl coming up on armrest
- Thread starter KANE
- Start date
M
medicine man
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That happened to my 97 on both armrests. I expermented with an exotic adhesive trying to inject the stuff in the inside, but could not hold down the vinal. I bought from mid america leather armrests that come with double sided tape,they look great.I know its just a cover up. The problem has not seemed to spread. If it does I'am going to cut the vinal and secure it with this adhesive and reapply the leather armrests. I hear the panels are 600.00 ea.
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KANE
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- Mar 2, 2002
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- Corvette
- Dark Blue 1982 Trans Am(s): Polo Green 1995 MN6
Gotta Good Fix!!!
This is a stretch for most of you- but I tried a few things myself first before I came up with this.
If your vinyl is coming up, and its not too big a patch, then CAREFULLY cut the back of the panel in the area TAKING EXTRA PRECAUTION NOT TO CUT THROUGH THE VINYL. I used a dremel and stopped frequently checking the depth. MAKE SURE YOU CUT CAREFULLY!!! The better you do making the cut for the panel, the better it will fit back together.
Clear off the foam debris.
Now apply a little GREAT STUFF WINDOW/DOOR INSULATION FOAM ADHESIVE (this stuff has the right properties when stirred and applied sparingly) to a disposeable paper plate. This stuff turns to a foam, egg-colored foam VERY quickly.
Then, use a tounge depresser to mix the foam around to remove most of the air. Once it resembles scrammbled eggs that are a little over runny and into globby, apply the foam to the area of the vinyl where the foam used to be. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE EDGES OF THE PLASTIC FREE FROM THE ADHESIVE- otherwise your panel section WILL NOT fit properly back into place when you replace.
YOU MUST HOLD THE VINYL FROM THE FRONT SIDE TO THE SHAPE IT NEEDS TO BE WHEN IT DRIES!!!!! Don't worry- it sets QUICKLY. About 8 minutes is all it takes to set, 8 hours to be fully cured. The intent is to replace the thin layer of foam with the adhesive. The trick is- the adhesive MUST HAVE AIR to dry. The little holes that were used to allow air to escape when the panels were assembled will NOT allow enough air into the panel to allow the adhesive to dry. That is why you MUST remove a portion of the panel to allow enough air to get to it!!!
It will be kind of uneven-almost like a flexible textured ceiling when it dires- but you need to use your dremel again to SAND it smooth. Then use the GREAT STUFF WINDOW/DOOR SEALANT FOAM to make a the back stick to the foam.
Then, use a solvent based glue to ensure the fitted piece matches the back at the seams. Paint to match -if you want.
This isn't perfect. Its not even great because you have to cut the panel. But, it looks better than the lumpy, foam-separated version that you have.
My panel was really, really messed up. I let it go too far. It looks better than the three inch bubble I had before, but had I done this a long time ago- it would look like it was never damaged.
This is a stretch for most of you- but I tried a few things myself first before I came up with this.
If your vinyl is coming up, and its not too big a patch, then CAREFULLY cut the back of the panel in the area TAKING EXTRA PRECAUTION NOT TO CUT THROUGH THE VINYL. I used a dremel and stopped frequently checking the depth. MAKE SURE YOU CUT CAREFULLY!!! The better you do making the cut for the panel, the better it will fit back together.
Clear off the foam debris.
Now apply a little GREAT STUFF WINDOW/DOOR INSULATION FOAM ADHESIVE (this stuff has the right properties when stirred and applied sparingly) to a disposeable paper plate. This stuff turns to a foam, egg-colored foam VERY quickly.
Then, use a tounge depresser to mix the foam around to remove most of the air. Once it resembles scrammbled eggs that are a little over runny and into globby, apply the foam to the area of the vinyl where the foam used to be. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE EDGES OF THE PLASTIC FREE FROM THE ADHESIVE- otherwise your panel section WILL NOT fit properly back into place when you replace.
YOU MUST HOLD THE VINYL FROM THE FRONT SIDE TO THE SHAPE IT NEEDS TO BE WHEN IT DRIES!!!!! Don't worry- it sets QUICKLY. About 8 minutes is all it takes to set, 8 hours to be fully cured. The intent is to replace the thin layer of foam with the adhesive. The trick is- the adhesive MUST HAVE AIR to dry. The little holes that were used to allow air to escape when the panels were assembled will NOT allow enough air into the panel to allow the adhesive to dry. That is why you MUST remove a portion of the panel to allow enough air to get to it!!!
It will be kind of uneven-almost like a flexible textured ceiling when it dires- but you need to use your dremel again to SAND it smooth. Then use the GREAT STUFF WINDOW/DOOR SEALANT FOAM to make a the back stick to the foam.
Then, use a solvent based glue to ensure the fitted piece matches the back at the seams. Paint to match -if you want.
This isn't perfect. Its not even great because you have to cut the panel. But, it looks better than the lumpy, foam-separated version that you have.
My panel was really, really messed up. I let it go too far. It looks better than the three inch bubble I had before, but had I done this a long time ago- it would look like it was never damaged.
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