John Mcgraw
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2003
- Messages
- 816
- Location
- Austin Tx
- Corvette
- 1960 Roman red, 1959 resto-rod, 1965 resto-rod
Here is a link to the pics of the windshield frame on a midyear. in the first couple of pics. you will see the "L channel" of fiberglass that has been already filled with urethane and riveted back on to the frame. The pop rivets are the same type used by the factory. The seal at this joint is what will make the biggest impact on making a windshield frame leak-proof. The next couple of pics show the cowl bonding lip with the frame sitting in about the correct position to bond it back in place. once this joint is made, this gap will be completely filled with bonding adhesive and is not a normal source of leaks. As you can see in these pics, if water gets between the frame and the "L channel". there is nothing to stop it from running out behind the dash! The last pic is of the flange under the dash that rivets to the cowl, and this is where the water usually shaows up since it is the lowest point. Whe n I took this frame apart, the caulk was very minimal and had dried up many years ago. Too bad the only way to affect this repair is to remove the spot welds and remove the frame. One could make a real impact on a leaker by caulking where the top lip of the "L channel" and the frame come together. This lip is also where the front end bonds to at the base of the windshield. Any water that gets behind the lower windshield trim will try and find it's way behind the dash if there is the slightest loss of seal between the frame and the "L channel".
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1596101
Regards, John McGraw
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1596101
Regards, John McGraw