Hooker Headers Problem in L82

[Govette77]

Hi Guys
I searched some of the posts and none really helped with this problem yet I doubt its unique. I have a stock 1977 L82 now with hooker headers on the passenger side only. My problem is how do I get the LS header in? Its a ceramic coated competition model - I have a lift and have tried installing from above and below. I removed the rt side plugs and valve cover and still no go. Does anyone have suggestions?
Thanks
:ugh

 

[vmrod]

What is causing the problem?

I installed my pipes with a set of jacks with no problems at all. (Don't put the big extension pipe on until later.)

I may have had to dent one of the primary pipes in a little bit, so that I could install a header bolt, but that was no biggie.

 

[KANE]

What is causing the problem?

I installed my pipes with a set of jacks with no problems at all. (Don't put the big extension pipe on until later.)

I may have had to dent one of the primary pipes in a little bit, so that I could install a header bolt, but that was no biggie.

I had to do the same thing Vic did on a 1978 back in 1996. You need jacks under the car and about 2 feet of clearance.

 

[TimAT]

If it's a four speed car, you need to remove the Z-bar (clutch cross shaft) and an auto trans will likely need the lockout linkage removed. It should go in from the bottom, as other have said, you'll need about 2 feet of clearance. It'll be really close to the steering box and may require a dent. I'm not 100% sure about the dent on a small block, but a BB requires it.

 

[Govette77]

If it's a four speed car, you need to remove the Z-bar (clutch cross shaft) and an auto trans will likely need the lockout linkage removed. It should go in from the bottom, as other have said, you'll need about 2 feet of clearance. It'll be really close to the steering box and may require a dent. I'm not 100% sure about the dent on a small block, but a BB requires it.

Thanks for the quick feedback guys..yes its a 4 spd so I guess I gotta remove the clutch cross shaft. It appears once the collector has passed the block there is no room to manipulate the individual pipes (that bolts to the head) past either the steering box or the clutch cross shaft. My lift raises the car up over 4 feet so ground clearance is not the issue. Removing the later and installing from below sounds like good advice. Thanks, I'll give it a try.

 

[minifridge1138]

I just installed Hooker Competition Headers on my 1982 L83. I can't tell you anything about clearing the clutch (i have an auto). You'll definitely want to remove the spark plugs and it helps a lot if you have 2 people. One under the car feeding the header up, and one above helping to angle the header. My biggest problem was clearing the steering box.

Good Luck, it is tight but it can be done.

 

[Govette77]

I just installed Hooker Competition Headers on my 1982 L83. I can't tell you anything about clearing the clutch (i have an auto). You'll definitely want to remove the spark plugs and it helps a lot if you have 2 people. One under the car feeding the header up, and one above helping to angle the header. My biggest problem was clearing the steering box.

Good Luck, it is tight but it can be done.

Thanks guys esp TimAT as I did need to remove the clutch support and I did install it from underneath but its now in!
Another question: Did anyone install an X pipe or H pipe when they put duals in? Just curious.
Thanks again - You guys are great!
Govette77

 

[minifridge1138]

I did not. My exhaust flows straight back to the muffler.

 

[Govette77]

I did not. My exhaust flows straight back to the muffler.

The latest issue of Chevy High Performance recommends it in all dual applications. GM had a Corvette chassis display at this years Detroit auto show and its duals had an X connection. Its supposed to reduce resonance and help scavenge gases from the other cylinder bank. I was just wondering how important this was when ya go from singles to duals. Did your performance improve and is resonance acceptable?

 

[Curtis]

I installed an H-pipe and it did help subdue the poppiness of the exhaust. I have read the following for determining the optimum place for the H. As follows: spray white paint on the exhaust in the area 3-18 inches after the header collector. start car and drive it putting good load on the engine for a couple minutes.. where the paint burning stops is the place to plumb in the H. I just read it, I did not do it that way because it would have had to go under the 700R4 and I didn't want a ground clearance isssue. Mine is installed but I cannot say if it makes more power because of it. It is my opinion that resonance (loudness) inside the car is best handled by adding sound deadening material under the carpets especially in the areas from the back of the seats to the rear of the car.

 

[Govette77]

Thanks for the info regarding how to test where to put the H pipe. What is a 700R4? Did you use a commercially available H pipe? Hooker only has a universal but I suppose any of the correct size would do. So where exactly did you place your H pipe? I'll consider the sound deadner, too. Did you go the sound deadener route? What did you use?

 

[Curtis]

MY crossover ended up about 6 inches behind the first u-joint in the driveline, just for ease of installation and ground clearance. It is not welded in, only clamped so that the exhaust can be taken off if transmission work is needed, etc. the 700R4 is the automatic overdrive gm tranny. the h-pipe was a kit thing from hooker . my exhaust pipes are mandrell bent 2 1/4 inch. Some modifications had to be done because the exhaust system and headers were for a manual tranny and I couldn't put in on in factory state with the automatice installed. I have no mufflers, only these sort of resonator tips. The car has a very nice rumble and subdued exhaust note until you stomp the gas . At cruise speed it is a little too loud inside the car right now. No, I have not installed the dynomat yet. I have a friend who did, and the difference in interior noise was really noticable, and he says it must have helped keeping heat out of the interior also.. my budget is extremely tight for car parts so....... pic of underside of car.

 

[Govette77]

MY crossover ended up about 6 inches behind the first u-joint in the driveline, just for ease of installation and ground clearance. It is not welded in, only clamped so that the exhaust can be taken off if transmission work is needed, etc. the 700R4 is the automatic overdrive gm tranny. the h-pipe was a kit thing from hooker . my exhaust pipes are mandrell bent 2 1/4 inch. Some modifications had to be done because the exhaust system and headers were for a manual tranny and I couldn't put in on in factory state with the automatice installed. I have no mufflers, only these sort of resonator tips. The car has a very nice rumble and subdued exhaust note until you stomp the gas . At cruise speed it is a little too loud inside the car right now. No, I have not installed the dynomat yet. I have a friend who did, and the difference in interior noise was really noticable, and he says it must have helped keeping heat out of the interior also.. my budget is extremely tight for car parts so....... pic of underside of car.

Hey Curtis - thanks so much for showing me the pics of your H-pipe connection. I spoke to a local muffler shop and they said they could cut a hole in each exhaust pipe and mig in a crossover but I wasn't sure where it should be placed. Its winter here and no way am I gonna do the paint thing and drive as you suggested but come spring thats a good suggestion. Having it removable as you have, is also a good idea.
Thanks again
Darryl