How can I get this molding off?

[Vref]

Any ideas of how to get this molding off the side of the car. Its that stick on side molding. I don't want to damage the paint.

http://66.96.168.202/vette/IMG_0916.JPG

 

[Mac]

It could be a sticky problem for sure.

Have you tried heating it? Putting a heat gun directly over the strip to warm and hopefully soften the adhesive. I've had good luck removing old decals and other sticky stuff from paint that way. You could also try using GooGone or some other similar product which breaks up adhesives but I'd try the heat gun first.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!!

-Mac

 

[BTDOG]

I would try some dental floss. Just work it slow and steady and it should come right off. Has worked for me on glued on emblems also. Good luck.
Nice looking ride!

 

[Mikey1]

Acetone could also work......but try first on an unvisible part i.e. underside of door....if it does harm the paint.

 

[paintdaddy]

Mac had it,try a heat gun or hair dryer whill pulling on it.Dont get the heat gun or hair dryer too close or it will burn the paint.It may leave some glue residue.Goo gon or goof off works.Or go to the local auto paint store and ask for some wipe solvent.It will work too.If the paint comes off while pulling the molding off well then it wasnt a very good job anyway.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Well for sure I think your making a good decition on taking it off.


I would suggest purchasing 3M adhesive remover (its in a red can and is sold in auto parts stores) and using the tiny spout they give you and apply it to the top side of the double stick tape,Then taking a piano wire and slide the wire inbetween the moulding and the double stick tape (staying away from the car paint) then sawing it up and down with the wire while pulling slightly away from the car.once the wire heats up it also melts the double stick tape.Dont worry about getting the double stick tape off just concentrate on the molding. the double stick tape will come off later with the adhesive remover

Good Luck and take your time

 

[Mikey1]

IH2LOSE...great idea !

All that makes it very difficult in this special case is that the molding is taped just over the bodyline edge.....

...haven't ssen the car myself...but using that wire might harm the paint in exactly that point.

If the molding is just above that bodyline this will work absolutely great.

 

[IH2LOSE]

IH2LOSE...great idea !

All that makes it very difficult in this special case is that the molding is taped just over the bodyline edge.....

...haven't ssen the car myself...but using that wire might harm the paint in exactly that point.

If the molding is just above that bodyline this will work absolutely great.

The whole idea is to STAY AWAY FROM THE PAINT the double stick tape is at least an 1/8" thick and all he want to do it get between the moulding and the tape and slighly pull away.

I used to work in a body shop in the late seventies early 80's and almost every car we painted got a set of this moldings If the body guy put them on crooked or the cars owner did not like them it was my job to get them back off with out destroying the paint

 

[Vref]

Now the next question I need to buff out the discoloration and minor scratches. Can you recommend a buffer unit or mfg and buffing compound name or type.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[Mac]

First things first... how did the trim removal go?

As for the scratches & buffing, are you familiar with clay bars?

-Mac

 

[Vref]

Not quite complete on the molding removal. 15 pound fishing line was a little weak and kept breaking, I used the goo gone, 3m adhesive remover and heat gun, but got some more work to do.

I used the procedure below;

Check under the wheel wells to see if there are any through the body clips. If there aren't any, it's most likely the standard dealer stick on's.

Whether the glue has altered the covered paint, or whether the elements and/or washing/waxing have altered the non-covered paint, can't be determined until you begin the removal.

If you are intent on proceeding, I'd have these things handy:

A hair dryer
A flexible, soft plastic, body filler spreader
A 10-15# nylon fishing line
2 pencils

Heat the trim up a bit with the hair dryer. Use the spreader to start an edge (check for discoloration). Use the fishing line (wrap the ends around a couple pencils for leverage) to help pull the trim away from the body.

Go slow. Use a helper. Add heat along the strip, if it helps.

 

[Mac]

Looks like you're moving in the right direction. I have a heat-gun which is a bit more powerful than a hair dryer. Of course, more heat means more possibility of damaging paint, so more precaution required. Your picture looks much like my removal did; the glue is old and well established so have patience with the Goo-Gone or whatever product you are using. I found there was still invisible residue after I'd cleared everything off but a couple coats of wax eliminated any sign.

If your paint is still laquer, you should be able to get rid of those scratches. I haven't used a clay bar with laquer, only with base-clear, but I was impressed with the results.

Hopefully some of the experts will pipe in here soon!!

-Mac

 

[Vref]

Yep its laquer Original paint on the car from the factory.