How to Adjust a C5 targa roof panel??

[Dave]

I just picked up a tinted glass targa top for my '01 coupe. When I put it on, the front latches were so tight, I almost couldn't close the latches. It was so tight that it really tightly compressed the header weather stripping. I looked at the construction of the latches and it looks as though the only way to adjust these is to put a shim under the latch base. Is this correct? If not, can someone give me some direction??

Any help would be apprectiated.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[Eric]

Dave,

I found this post in a old thread. Thanks for posting this though, I had been meaning to ask the same question for the opposite reason - need to tighten mine.

Here you go:

Roof Adjustment:

Adjust rear striker to ensure locator pins are fully seated.

Coarse ajustment - loosen rear striker bolts and move striker forward.

Fine Adjustment - loosen set screw and turn hook 1 turn at a time.

Front Striker

Coarse adjustment - loosen striker mounting bolts and reposition up or down

Fine adjustment - loosen striker outboard bolt, slightly loosen inboard bolt and pivot striker bracket up or down on inboard bolt.


Good luck!

Window Adjustment
If the top of your window doesn't contact the weatherstrip, you need to adjust the window "tip-in".


Tools: #6 inverted Torx Socket

-Raise the window to the top

-Remove the large access plug under of front of the door.

-Loosen the window regulator front channel mounting nut

-Remove the reflector lens from the trim panel

-Loosen the jack screw jam nut

-Turn the jack screw CCW to tip the window inward (1 turn = 0.04 inches at the top of the window)

-Tighten the jack screw jam nut

-Lower the window

-Tighten the window regulator channel front mounting nut

The above is on page 8-1189 of the GM service manual if you can get one.

 

[Eric]

Also,

Here's a post by c4c5specialist on the same topic.
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showpost.php?p=271225&postcount=2

Good luck!

 

[Dave]

Wow, That was quick!! I did a search but I cae up empty!

Thanks Eric, I'll give this a try.
Dave

 

[DRTH VTR]

Eric-
You are fast!!

 

[Bluemill]

Adjusting the roof strikers.

I just did this procedure to get rid of a long, lost, elusive rattle. I do have good hearing and although I'm 55 I am not getting senile or anything but I thought for SURE that incessant sharp rattle heard when hitting stiff bumps was absolutely coming from center dash, deep inside, like inside the heater/defroster box.

I'd taken off the whole instrument/dash panel 4 times, and even went into the heater and started removing the air flaps and vacuume motors etc. What a mess! I even broke one of the hook pieces putting one of the flaps back in and had to buy another for $24.00.

All I'm saying is don't loosen the front striker too much or you could have the same issue. When I first did mine it was too tight, like it felt like, I'm guessing 20-25 ft. lbs on the handle to snap it locked. I drove it around and was so F%%%'ing happy that I found that dumb rattle I was dancing in my garage! Then I realized that it was way too tight. I loosened it by moving the outside striker side up by really loosening the outboard bolt (10MM), and then just untorqueing the inner bolt a little so as to pivot on it. I then tightened them and felt the "torque" when I closed the locking handle, way too easy, like 4-5 ft. lbs. Then I drew a line on top of the strikerframe on the windshield frame to mark my new starting point. Then I loosened the outer bolt and just got the inner bolt unsnugged to pivot on it as before. This time, I dropped the outside edge of the striker about 1/16th in. Then I tightened both bolts about 5-10 lbs. DO NOT over tighten- this could ruin your day!

After that the handle locking torque was about 10-15 lbs. Perfect, and no DAMN rattle!

ENJOY
Bluemill