Help! How to connect the 12 gauge wire to the stock ignition switch for pertronix 2 install?

[JamesWeber]

Hi, I just joined today. My Mom gave me her 1965 Stingray that has been in storage for about 30 years. I am trying to complete the install of a pertronix 2 ignition and flame thrower 2 coil. I am beginning to feel like I just bought a used boat. $$$$ )

Anyway, I have attached the new 12 gauge wire to the positive coil terminal and strung it through the firewall. I removed the seat, and I am now performing gymnastic contortions to reach the ignition switch. My question is how to best attach the wire to the switch without creating any problems?

I don't suppose anyone has any pictures to help with this final step of the install?

Thanks.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Welcome to the CAC

Several guys on here have installed Pertronix conversions. I'm sure someone will have the answers that you need.

Tom.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

No need for any gyrations and no need to even enter the car. Attach the new 12v wire on the upstream side of the ballast resistor. Done.

 

[JamesWeber]

No need for any gyrations and no need to even enter the car. Attach the new 12v wire on the upstream side of the ballast resistor. Done.

Thanks, I will attach the 12 gauge wire to the wire coming from the ignition. I have removed the ballast and hope that it helps clear up the engine hesitation.

 

[JamesWeber]

Wont start without jump

Okay. I put in the 12 gauge wire and the engine ran smoother. I still need to adjust the carb and timing. However, now it won't start without a jump. I checked the battery it has about 12 volts, so I think it's good. A while back I put in a new alternator, so I think it's good too.

When I turn the ignition the interior lights go dark. The alternator wiring harness is an ugly spliced up mess-- maybe that's it, but I am not sure because I wasn't having any electrical starting problems before. I am a newbie mechanic and barely know my way around the electrics of an automobile.

Anyone have any suggestions as to how I should proceed from here? I checked the forum for this problem, but I could not find anything.

Thanks.

 

[Hib Halverson]

First, your battery–a fully-charged battery in good condition will read 12.6-volts, not "about 12 volts" but 12.6. After charging, anything less than that is indicative of a problematic battery.

Second, check the battery cable condition and quality of connections...at both ends of each cable.

Third, with the engine running at operating temperature the system voltage should be about 13.5-volts. Is it?

 

[JamesWeber]

First, your battery–a fully-charged battery in good condition will read 12.6-volts, not "about 12 volts" but 12.6. After charging, anything less than that is indicative of a problematic battery.

Second, check the battery cable condition and quality of connections...at both ends of each cable.

Third, with the engine running at operating temperature the system voltage should be about 13.5-volts. Is it?

Thanks for the reply. The battery is new. I will check the connections. Would a corroded ground strap play a role, and where would I connect the volt meter to test the system voltage when the car is running?

I know these must seem like stupid questions, but I have always owned modern cars and haven't had to do this sort of stuff before.

Thanks.

 

[JamesWeber]

The electrical saga continues

Well, it's been a while since my last post, however I now have time for the corvette. After speaking with Mark Hamilton at MAD electrical about all things electrical, so cal automotive nostalgic, general motors history/engineering, Chris craft, Airstream, and a little societal observation for about three and one-half hours, he convinced me to purchase his all in one electrical package that should solve and improve all my electrical issues ---provided I don't screw it up.

Based on our conversation, it appears that all I will need to learn is how to read a schematic, solder, shrink, splice, terminate and the like.

Then, assuming I do that right, replace all the suspension bushings, springs, and shocks, rebuild the brake master cylinder and wheel cylinders and rubber brake lines, replace the wheel bearings and the exhaust system and the mechanical fuel pump with an electric version, possibly replace the front drum brakes with discs (including a modern master cylinder), tires, engine/transmission/differential mounts, rebuild the transmission (might as well since the third gear synchro is out), adjust the carb, set the timing, touch up the nicks and scratches on the fifty year old paint, replace the driver and passenger window seals and felt, and any and all the other "little" things.

Whew.....what a conversation. Great guy.

Hi ho, hi ho......let's hope I don't burn the place down and that I get out alive and with wallet intact.

PS. I would add photos but they download upside down....?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

PS. I would add photos but they download upside down....?

I bet you took them with a smart phone help upside down.

Are you sure that your car has drum brakes and is a '65? That's pretty rare.

 

[JamesWeber]

I bet you took them with a smart phone help upside down.

Are you sure that your car has drum brakes and is a '65? That's pretty rare.

Lol. It's quite possible I took them upside down since I don't know which way is right side up with a smart (dumb?)phone. And yes, for a whopping $64.95 credit the original buyer had the opportunity to ride with drums. I could be wrong about this, but it is my understanding that 316 units were sold in 1965 with drums. Do you think that I should keep them as is?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Do you think that I should keep them as is?

Absolutely! There's virtually no different in stopping distance.

Beware vendors who love to spend your money for you.......................