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I want one! Mini ram air intake to buy or not to buy?

Nick90vetteguy

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
188
Location
New Jersey
Corvette
1990 Polo Green Corvette
So I'm looking to get rid of my intake I made, its a hassle and requires constant maintance, anybody got a mini ram intake? If so does it work? and where can I get one :D
 
Nick90vetteguy;1037264 said:
does it work? and where can I get one :D
Of course it works ;
will it do what you want is a different story.
Miniram spins to 7K ;Are you prepared to spend $$ on upgrading other parts to suit ; Cam / springs / etc?

$1250 from TPiS
TPiS, Inc.
TPiS, Inc.
 
TPIS Miniram

98
So I'm looking to get rid of my intake I made, its a hassle and requires constant maintance, anybody got a mini ram intake? If so does it work? and where can I get one :D

I'm a new member and just saw your post and in my following comments hope to explain the difference between the Miniram vs stock TPI setup according to my experience.

I've got an '89 Z51 coupe that has a miniram installed with 24lb injectors. I did all the easy stuff first, not necessarily in this order..Breathless Cold Air Intake, Breathless Air Pump Eliminator, Borla Cat Back, Ramdom Technologies High Flow Cat, Lingenfelter Headers and ADS chip (the Miniram was the last thing I did). I bought the car bone stock except for the Borla so I can attest to the difference these changes made. Opening up the exhaust (headers and cat) made a world of difference. (I had previously cut out the stock intake filter lid.)

I've run the car on the street and track (road courses - Watkins Glen, VIR, Sumit Point, etc.) and quite frankly can't feel the difference in low rpm torque loss with the Miniram that so many people talk about although no doubt there is some. But what is really noticeable is the ability to rev. With the Miniram it now revs like an LT1/LT4. Since I've been told that the stock valve train (springs and lifters) is good to somewhere between 6000-6500 rpms and since mine is stock I shift around 5800-5900 rpms. I spoke to TPIS about this and this is the rpm they recommended based on my otherwise stock engine, referring to the stock LT1 shift point. BTW, there isn't alot of difference between the L98 and LT1 heads and cam according to all I've read and TPIS also mentioned this when I talked with them. The big difference between the engines is the intake manifold design. TPIS also says this on their website.

My opinion is that the Miniram would be wasted on an otherwise stock setup or a stock exhaust manifold engine.

I've raced LT1s in the 1/4 mile with my tuned port and they won by .4 to .5 second every time. But all of that was at the last half of the track. I always either beat them or stayed with them off the line and probably through the 1/8 mile. Of course that's what you'd expect with a tuned port.

I think the bottim line here is that I got more low end and top end when I opened up the intake and exhaust (engine breathing) and then probably gave some low end torque back when I installed the Miniram (when compare to the TPI) but still have alot more low end torque than I did when everything was bone stock. I love the setup and it's easy to install and maintain and fits easily under the hood- just like all the old small block chevy engines -since it's a one piece manifold.

I also have an '88 Z52 coupe that I have now decided to sell, that I was going to install a Miniram on. That miniram setup is now advertised on Craigslist. Pictures of the Miniram installed on my '89 are also shown there. The link to that is below.

The setup is not sold yet, if you're interested.

I hope this information helps you decide.

TPIS MiniRam manifold
 
I've raced LT1s in the 1/4 mile with my tuned port and they won by .4 to .5 second every time. But all of that was at the last half of the track. I always either beat them or stayed with them off the line and probably through the 1/8 mile. Of course that's what you'd expect with a tuned port.
Interesting. I've got a stock 1989 vette with G92 performance axle. 0-100 feet, I pull ahead from a dead start from either a manual or auto LT1, at 500 feet we are pretty much dead even, after the 1/8 mile it is all LT1. At the end of the 1/4 mile, LT1s are around .4 to .5 seconds quicker. Seems like very similar performance levels to your modified L98. I've talk to TPiS and they feel my performance levels are just about right. They credit the flow balanced fuel injectors (Bosch IIIs) as keeping me in the higher end of stock performance.

Some additional performance comparisons: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...ion/121421-two-c4-owners-having-some-fun.html
 
Interesting. I've got a stock 1989 vette with G92 performance axle. 0-100 feet, I pull ahead from a dead start from either a manual or auto LT1, at 500 feet we are pretty much dead even, after the 1/8 mile it is all LT1. At the end of the 1/4 mile, LT1s are around .4 to .5 seconds quicker. Seems like very similar performance levels to your modified L98. I've talk to TPiS and they feel my performance levels are just about right. They credit the flow balanced fuel injectors (Bosch IIIs) as keeping me in the higher end of stock performance.

Some additional performance comparisons: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...ion/121421-two-c4-owners-having-some-fun.html

Just to be clear, the .4 to .5 second difference that I mentioned was against comparably equipped LT1s. I wasn't comparing a stock LT1 to my modified L98.

I made the mods to my car over a period of time. First I installed and air foil, ADS chip and K&N filter. Then headers and high flow cat. Finally, Miniram air pump pulley eliminator, and Breathless Air Intake

The .4 to .5 second difference was compared to comparably modified LT1 corvettes that I raced over a period of time.
 
Appreciate the clarification. My comparisons have been L98 stock (or near stock) to LT1 stock (or near stock) comparisons. I have enough fun with off-the-line traction management, so even if you lost just a little power below 2000 RPM, that may not be such a bad thing. At least you don't die at 4800 RPM anymore.
 
so even if you lost just a little power below 2000 RPM, that may not be such a bad thing. At least you don't die at 4800 RPM anymore.
I ran a Holley Steath Ram ( which I consider to best the best all round street intake ; pity it has clearance problems on a C4 ) on one of my L98's
The " loss" of bottom end torque made it much easier to launch at the track compared to same combo with big tube , fully ported TPI.
Still ran the same 60ft times but less chance of it breaking loose
 
So I'm looking to get rid of my intake I made, its a hassle and requires constant maintance, anybody got a mini ram intake? If so does it work? and where can I get one :D

The Miniram is a good proven intake. My .02 is it will only shift your power band up on its' own. In other words, if you go Mini you need to change your cam. Your current cam just won't be a good match.
 
TPIS Miniram

The Miniram is a good proven intake. My .02 is it will only shift your power band up on its' own. In other words, if you go Mini you need to change your cam. Your current cam just won't be a good match.

As far as I am concerned the stock L98 cam is a fine match but obvously not perfect. Everything is a compromise. The cam question is always " how much is enough". I absolutely agree that a bigger cam (and AFR heads) along with the miniram will give alot more horsepower. But where do you stop? You can always get a wilder cam and bigger heads (and a blower). The question you always have to ask is how you intend to use the car - what are your goals? Where do you draw the line?

Keep in mind that torque is measured and horsepower is calculated. It's the rpms that the miniram enables the engine to turn that causes the horsepower to increase (without changing anything else), (torque*rpm/5252=horsepower).

That's why an L98 with stock cam and stock heads, headers, high flow cat, etc. can easily dyno at 320hp vs 245hp for a stock L98 and 300hp for a stock LT1 and the combination is very streetable. This combination runs like an LT1 with some extra HP, without getting into the engine.

My point is that a miniram with a stock cam is not a bad combination. But it's certainly not the optimum combination depending on your definition of optimum.
 
Sorry, I don't buy it. The Mini is a lot like the LT1 intake. However, the typical LT1 cam has a lift of .450"/.460" compared to the 1990 L98 really mild .413"/.428" lift (both with 1.5 ratio rockers). In addition, the LT1 heads and exhaust are much better. People think they can pop on a Mini and run with a LT1. It just ain't so!
 
Sorry, I don't buy it. The Mini is a lot like the LT1 intake. However, the typical LT1 cam has a lift of .450"/.460" compared to the 1990 L98 really mild .413"/.428" lift (both with 1.5 ratio rockers). In addition, the LT1 heads and exhaust are much better. People think they can pop on a Mini and run with a LT1. It just ain't so!
I agree with Badduck.... The rotating assemblies are similar between the LT1 and L98 but the heads and valve train of the LT1 are BETTER.

An intake is going to help any L98 but it will not make 50 horsepower and can't make up the difference of compression, better breathing heads and valvetrain. Remember engine dyno numbers are different than the factory rating numbers.. The aftermarket dyno numbers used in advertising a performance part are inline with pre-1971 factory ratings.


I still believe that removing the TPI is always a good step since the TPI intake was designed to produce enough torque to move a Vehicle with a low compression 305 and had no place on a performance 350. ABOMINATION.
 
Look up the post from a few years ago.

Several of us were having lots of fun with the L98.

$ for fun ratio was stroked to 383, ported heads, matching intake, 52MM throttle body, cam and intake of your personal taste.

My final setup was a big mouth baseplate and tubes with ported plenum and home brew 52 MM TB. I posted a "how to" on modding the TB at the time.

Thunder's dyno was climbing past 450 ftlb when the left hand motor mount broke. We never knew how much was left because there was no more dyno time when we replaced the mount.

Getting a chip burnt to match your mods is critical. Took me 3 or 4 tries to get it right.

That was a few years ago. Today I would bolt a supercharger on and be done with it.
 
That's why an L98 with stock cam and stock heads, headers, high flow cat, etc. can easily dyno at 320hp vs 245hp for a stock L98
Got dyno proof ?
L98 is weak on the exhaust but no way a set of headers and a good exhaust gets you 75HP increase on stock TPI
Do some reading ; TPI mods are well documented ( with dyno results not hearsay) and you will see what it takes to make that much extra Hp

I got 315Hp with ported plenum , siamesed stock TPI base , SLP big tube runners, headers , no cat / free flow mufflers, a ZZ4 cam ( 208/221 .470 /.510 ) and a tune
 
Does TPIS make a Mini Ram that will bolt on to Vortec heads? The LT1 heads are very similar to the Vortec heads. If you could put Vortec heads on a L98 with a Mini Ram and a nice cam, you should be close to LT1 performance.
 
Does TPIS make a Mini Ram that will bolt on to Vortec heads? The LT1 heads are very similar to the Vortec heads. If you could put Vortec heads on a L98 with a Mini Ram and a nice cam, you should be close to LT1 performance.

He port his stock heads, put in a Lt4 Hotcam kit, and drop on a Mini and he will blow right past a stock LT1.
 
Got dyno proof ?


I got 315Hp with ported plenum , siamesed stock TPI base , SLP big tube runners, headers , no cat / free flow mufflers, a ZZ4 cam ( 208/221 .470 /.510 ) and a tune

That sounds about right... There is no magic to building HP.:eyerole It should be noted that most well tuned, stock L98's will do about 20% better than factory specs.

There are better cams for the TPI than the ZZ4, sorry, I have been away too long to remember which one we used. NO TPI will ever be a high rever so you gotta build the torque quick. Thunder's is almost flat from 3200 to well over 4000. By 5500 RPMs it is all over with.

Grumpyvette or GMJunkie are the guys with the knowledge for engine building.

With today's prices it is cheaper to bolt on a SC, get a chip burnt and be done with it. That is where my next project is going.(after the bore and stroke to 383 which is the first step to serious HP)
 
My concern is, if I get it, I feel that no air is making its way into the throttle body, for example the stock long black intake tube runner that ran into the throttle body seems great, for the fact it guides the air into the manifold. with this mini ram its right there-I'm not saying anything bad I just think its a little....I dont know, less air flow more restriction and more heat that is givin off the engine goes right back into the mini ram.. ya know? :W
 
My concern is, if I get it, I feel that no air is making its way into the throttle body, for example the stock long black intake tube runner that ran into the throttle body seems great, for the fact it guides the air into the manifold. with this mini ram its right there-I'm not saying anything bad I just think its a little....I dont know, less air flow more restriction and more heat that is givin off the engine goes right back into the mini ram.. ya know? :W


Are you refering to the intake air-duct ?
 
My concern is, if I get it, I feel that no air is making its way into the throttle body, for example the stock long black intake tube runner that ran into the throttle body seems great, for the fact it guides the air into the manifold. with this mini ram its right there-I'm not saying anything bad I just think its a little....I dont know, less air flow more restriction and more heat that is givin off the engine goes right back into the mini ram.. ya know? :W

What are you trying to say? Both intakes get more than enough air flow. That is not even an issue. The difference is mainly runner length.
 

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