IGNITOR electronic ignition

[Hijinx]

Roudy,
You should not have to with an electronic ignition. Are you sure that the wire you have is not a ballast wire?

 

[Rowdy1]

Which One?

Which wire are you referring to? It's GOT to be something STUPID!!!!! Every wire, connector, is brand new. I'm open for ANY suggestions at this point.;help

 

[Hijinx]

The lead that runs from your coil to the firewall. On stock setups, it is a resistor wire. It should be marked as one, however, I am not sure how to check it.

 

[wolf_walker]

Re: Which One?

Which wire are you referring to? It's GOT to be something STUPID!!!!! Every wire, connector, is brand new. I'm open for ANY suggestions at this point.;help

I believe you can simply check for voltage on that wire, if it's a resistor wire, it will be lower than the normal 12 volts. If you got an exsact repro harness it's probibly in there. You shouldnt need a resistor with a newer coil, espeically a high performance one.

 

[Rowdy1]

Painless

The harness is from Painless, all the connectors are Lawler, heat shrunk. Me and electricity don't get along too well, but the friend that did the wiring is a top of his class graduate from Wyoming Tech. and he says I don't need a resistor, but like I said, I'm open for ANY suggestions at this point. I've seen him figure out some real crazy stuff, but this one has him going, and me too as I'm scared to take the car out. Triple AAA is getting old.

 

[wolf_walker]

Honestly, resistor or not, it shouldnt run than cut out, you either have a bad componet or a loose connection it seems. A pain in the rear problem to find, intermitant like that. Fire it up and start wiggiling, jiggling and banging on things I guess.

 

[JohnZ]

All GM OEM point coils are designed to run on 7-8 volts; replacement parts store coils (like "Standard", etc.) that require a resistor for reduced current normally are stamped "requires external resistor" or something similar. If you have either of these two types and are running it on a full 12 volts, you'd better carry a spare coil, because 12 volts WILL eventually fry them. Aftermarket performance coils are another issue - some are designed for a full 12 volts, and some aren't - go with the manufacturer's instructions. I've been at this for 40 years, and I've replaced lots of fried stock coils that people thought would run "better" with a full 12 volts on them; they don't.

 

[wolf_walker]

All GM OEM point coils are designed to run on 7-8 volts; replacement parts store coils (like "Standard", etc.) that require a resistor for reduced current normally are stamped "requires external resistor" or something similar. If you have either of these two types and are running it on a full 12 volts, you'd better carry a spare coil, because 12 volts WILL eventually fry them. Aftermarket performance coils are another issue - some are designed for a full 12 volts, and some aren't - go with the manufacturer's instructions. I've been at this for 40 years, and I've replaced lots of fried stock coils that people thought would run "better" with a full 12 volts on them; they don't.

He's got an MSD Blaster2 coil, shouldnt need a resistor, but even if it has one it shouldnt be randomly cutting out like that.

 

[gdh]

Bought an MSD 6Al and Blaster II from a fellow vetter. Was told by MSD that the Pertonix Ignitor II will work well with this and my OEM distributor. They also said that it would work without the Ignitor but I want to get rid of my points.

 

[gdh]

Just got back from the beginning of my new engine break-in. Thought that I would tell you all that the points are crapping out @4200 rpm. Now I haven't adjusted the timing other than by sound as there is no real point to doing a complete tune-up when I will be installing the Ignitor II and Msd system soon. Also on just recently on start-up only I have white smoke (water) coming out of the driver side exhaust, goes away soon as I get moving and then only shows up upon start-up again. Any suggestions as what this could be, there is no water in the oil, and just put some Bars Stop Leak in tonight.

 

[gdh]

The stop leak worked like a charm. Now will continue the break-in period.