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Help! Im at my wits end .....please read

stratinik

Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
Messages
12
Location
06905
Corvette
1991 red L98
:W1991 L98, 21,000, 6 speed. Have posted before, will try to keep this short..lol. bought car a few months back, had chattering sound when got hot, at the time didnt know about dual mass fly wheel noises..SES light came on, code 32, replaced EGR. Light would still come on and had chattering I thought the two were one and the same. Car would run, when got hot SES light woudl come on, through various codes that seemed like nonsense, speed sensor, engine temp sensor, fuel pump relay, EGR. Car progressed to start, run fine cold, heat up run like crap and shutter and then shutoff. reached a point of no start. like a moron i started reading and replacing thing i thought made sense, did TPS, MAP, air filter, cap, rotor, coil pack, ingnition module, fuel pump, ECM. nothing, car cranked but no start. Gave up brought to GM, They diagnosed bad injector # 5, $800 diagnosis parts and labor..ouch. Car ran fine for a few days, still had chatter, no codes. yesterday through codes, 32 and 42. went back to dealer, they say other injecotrs may be bad, and chatter noise is dual mass fly wheel... Im lost. Im thinking if there is a misfire, ive read that could make dual mass chatter. dont want to go right for that fix.if a misfire could be causing it.... idean anyone please help, the car is beautiful and I dont want to give on her but may not be worth the cost.
 
Since throwing money at the problem did not fix it, try diagnosing.

32 code is not just a bad EGR, you could a vacuum leak, EGR passage way is blocked or partly blocked.

Do you have a FSM(factory service manual)?

If not, get one at helmsinc.com, best $100 you will spend.
Codes are often a symtom of other problems and did GM check all injectors or did they do like most shops and stopped when they found something wrong?

Usually a code can have multiple meanings, i.e. cover multiple sensors and relays.

Not trying to be mean, just let you know that diagnosing a problem will save you time and money.
 
Usually a code can have multiple meanings, i.e. cover multiple sensors and relays.

:thumb
The 32 code could be a simple as the EGR temp switch in the crossover tube being bad or having a loose connection ( very common )
A code is a indication there is a fault in that system, inc wiring , connections , etc; not just the sensor itself
 
you may have an issue with your knock sensor. i had the same thing happen to my car where it would get hot and start missing. turned out my connector to my knock sensor had cracked off and the plug was just slipped on barely enough to give a connection. i replaced the knock sensor and connector and that issue went away.

sadly i too am now battling the code 32 and have not made any progress :(
 
With a worn dual mass flywheel,(doesn't mean it is worn out) the six speed will chatter if you have a rough idle.

Glenn
:w
 
you gotta bit the bullit man, take to a corvette specialist and say fix it
 
Since throwing money at the problem did not fix it, try diagnosing..

Post of the year UH HUH!:thumb:thumb:thumb

Unfortunately, diagnostics takes critical thinking skills, and EVEN mechanics don't do that. They'll say, "It COULD be X part, and we CAN replace that...".

The Fully Automatic Assault Wallet approach is easier yup
thgun04_4.gif


Get FSM, a multimeter, and start reading, and start probing. It's the ONLY way you'll find the problem.

Somewhere here I've posted pics of backprobes into the PCM / harness. That's wrenchin' and diagnostics at its finest.


edit:
TPS, MAP, air filter, cap, rotor, coil pack, ingnition module, fuel pump, ECM.
You did NOT replace all those parts?

You rich? PM me some cash?
 
Unfortunately, diagnostics takes critical thinking skills, and EVEN mechanics don't do that. They'll say, "It COULD be X part, and we CAN replace that...".
You mean "Parts Changers" don't you??
:L
The Fully Automatic Assault Wallet approach is easier yup
thgun04_4.gif
:boogie:boogie:boogie

Get FSM, a multimeter, and start reading, and start probing. It's the ONLY way you'll find the problem.

Somewhere here I've posted pics of backprobes into the PCM / harness. That's wrenchin' and diagnostics at its finest.
iagree.gif
iagree.gif
iagree.gif


I thought the two were one and the same. Car would run, when got hot SES light woudl come on, through various codes that seemed like nonsense, speed sensor, engine temp sensor, fuel pump relay, EGR. Car progressed to start, run fine cold, heat up run like crap and shutter and then shutoff. reached a point of no start.
Man, after reading the last few of your other threads,I've "determined"!!
You've had too many Cooks with their fingers in this pie,I believe you should find a Real Pastry Chef!! :L:L:L

But in the mean time,Check and Clean every Ground on this car!! ALL of them,Especially them hard to get to bastages on the bell housing that No One wants to do!!:thumb:thumb:thumb Open and High resistance Grounds make Electronics do Weird Sh*t!!! I find ground problems on Corvettes the biggest cause of electrical,accessory and Meaningless Multiple Code throwing running problems there is!!:thumb
After that see Schrade's post above!!

:thumb:beer
 
electrical contact cleaner, or tuner cleaner, (Radio Shack) should be on your workbench at all times, every time you pull a connector give it a shot of cleaner, Ground connections like schrade & GM have mentioned have caused more problems than probably everything else. can be your battery also (with all the lights coming on in the DIC) if your cranking voltage drops in the 11v or under range it can make the ECM go crazy.
Thats sll I have :)
Tom
 
Post of the year UH HUH!:thumb:thumb:thumb

Unfortunately, diagnostics takes critical thinking skills, and EVEN mechanics don't do that. They'll say, "It COULD be X part, and we CAN replace that...".



Easy dont generalize, I work in the business, i completely agree by the way. Hey, we arn't all mindless nit wits. I can't speak for anyplace else, but where i work we dont just parts shotgun it. Except for the one guy, i wonder about him. Sometimes problems are very weird and hard to figure out and occasionally we will replace a part that we think is the problem. Anyone who has done a lot of diagnostic work will occasionally have this problem. Not everything is cut and dry.

Case in point, we had a Windstar that would sit an idle all day drive it down the road a little ways and it would stop completely, and not restart until later. This was after hitting a deer. The thing had fuel pressure until it died and then had none. Not sure EXACTLY what it is but the center tank strap was damaged by the deer. We are thinking something is amiss inside the pump b/c of the impact. We are recommending a pump replacement. Yes it has power and a confrimed ground, everything else checks too, including the infamous inertia switch.
FYI, this is not a vehicle I am working on, but my co-worker's, he is NOT a parts shotgunner and he is good at diag. He finds crap wrong with our 6.0 and 6.4L Diesels that other independent shops in the area have NO idea what is going on with them.

:cool:thumb

Follow the above advice, get a FSM, and a few basic diagnostic tools.
Ford had all kinds of stuff for us to use, I use it quite a bit. When you got a written manual on what to test and how, and for what data you should see you would be foolish not to use it. You still have to understand the system and think about what is going on.

GOOD LUCK
 

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