If your fuel injectors are original, they are the Multec injectors and their coils usually short out. If you have an ohm meter, remove the electrical plug at each injector. Use a flat blade screwdriver and press in on the wire retainer and pull up on the electrical connector. Measure the resistance of the coil. *****Should be around 16 ohms. ******
The Inj 2 fuse controls the 4 injectors on the passengerside of the engine.
If you don't have a meter unplug 3 of them install a new fuse and see if the fuse blows. If it doesn't install another one and see if the fuse blows etc...
Note: Sometimes the coils don't short out until they are hot.
If you do find a bad injector, you can leave the plug disconnected and run on 7 cylinders.
The Gage fuse is not related to the Inj 2 fuse.
Gage fuse provides 12 volts for the following.
AC Solenoid if you have Manual AC
TCC Brake Switch if you have Auto transmission (unlocks torque converter)
Daytime running lights module if you have that
Primary Coolant fan relay
Secondary Coolant fan relay
1-4 Shift relay for manual transmission
Alternator Regulator
Air Control Valve solenoid
Air Diverter Valve solenoid
EGR Valve solenoid
So if the Gages fuse is blows as soon as you turn the key on and you don't have a ohm meter, the only way to find the problem is by elimination. Unplug the device and plug them back one at a time until the fuse blows.
I have a 1990 coupe. the fuel injector 2 fuse popped while i was driving. I replaced the fuse and the car drove about 3 miles before the fuse popped again. the next fuse popped as soon as i turned the key to 'on', along with the gagues fuse. now both fuses will go at the same time by turning the key to 'on'. I havent had any other electrical problems. I have not had a chance to plug it in for a diagnostic test yet. Is there a specific or common solution to this, or am i up the creek without the tester?
