Install engine with muncie attached??

[waterboy1976]

Getting ready to drop the engine back in the baby.. Can I hook up the trans, put the car up on jackstands to get more clearance and then put the whole thing in as an assembly? Id like to do it that way because I dont like putting the motor in without any support behind it without the trans attached. Any suggestions??
Thanks guys...

 

[Stallion]

Well, as far as I know, if you safely do it either way, you should have no problems. There are three points of support for the engine. Two engine mounts (solid or not) and the transmission. With the lack of a transmission, you can improvise. Have a stand under there with a couple of blocks of wood (depending on how high you need to have the support) and you should be okay.

Conversely, it is sensible that if you have both out to just put everything back in. You'll need a cherry-picker and a little maneuvering to get it in, but I think in the long run it'll be easier.

It's not too bad getting the tranny back in the Vette with the engine in, I had to do it. But I'm sure (I've never actually done it) that it would be easier just to have it all in at the same time.

Wait for someone else to chime in. JohnZ will know exactly what to do.

 

[mike weyman]

that's the way i put mine in,it's a lot easier than trying to get the bolts in the tranny afterward. i have unwittingly become an expert at this as i installed them together then took the transmission out and installed a good 2400 stall converter before i ever drove it.actually i still haven't driven it . with any luck it will be leagle on monday then we'll see what a two year 10,000$ rebuild got me.

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

the only snag i can see you having is the crossmember. if i remember right, the manual tranny cars have a fixed crossmember and the autos have a removeable one. with the radiator out, you should be able to get the motor far enough forward to get the tailshaft up and over the x-member, then it's as easy as pie. Brian

 

[Stallion]

Autos have removable crossmembers? I didn't know that. I thought all of ours were fixed.

 

[JohnZ]

Pull the distributor and install the engine/trans as a unit; use a tilter on the cherry-picker, remove the left front wheel for clearance, and load it from the side. In my experience, lots easier than trying to line up the engine with the transmission, getting the input shaft aligned and the trans seated, etc. with all of it hanging in the car.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

IMHO, It's easier to pull the engime and tranny together than it is to pull either the engine or tranny separately. I have done both, and it may take a little longer, but it saves a lot of "on your back under the car" work.
Hey! The new C6 jumping jack flash commercial just came on the Olympics! Cool!

Pete.

 

[Paranoid]

Pull the distributor and install the engine/trans as a unit; use a tilter on the cherry-picker, remove the left front wheel for clearance, and load it from the side. In my experience, lots easier than trying to line up the engine with the transmission, getting the input shaft aligned and the trans seated, etc. with all of it hanging in the car.

Anyone install a big block using this method?

 

[drduckster]

Hey!! 1970 Stingray, tell me about those wheels, I like that look. Duck

 

[Paranoid]

Hey!! 1970 Stingray, tell me about those wheels, I like that look. Duck

The wheels are American Racing Torque Thrust II's----16x8 with 255-50-16 Goodyear Eagle Ultra HP's.

 

[drduckster]

I do like those wheels, do you have the offset trailing arms, or are those stock? Sorry, Waterboy 1976, I did'nt mean to hi-jack the forum. I got excited with the bling-bling.

 

[Paranoid]

Duckster---they're standard trailing arms using 4 in backspacing on the wheels an NO spacers. :gap

 

[Glassman]

I have done this many times it is best to put it in as a assembly. The water pump and the distributor should be off the motor and you need a tilting connection for the cherry picker. If the transition has grease in it you will need a plug for it. If you use a yoke wire it in, I have had them fall out (what a mess). leave the mount off the trans and the frame, gives more room.
When using the cherry picker I found if the car is on jack stands and the front wheels are off it is a lot easier to get it in.

 

[waterboy1976]

Heya Glassman......come on down next week to Avon Lake and help me....

 

[Glassman]

help

I would love to but we are going to west Ohio for events on Sat and Sunday then Nelsons road coarse on Monday.

 

[waterboy1976]

UPDATE: engine is in...with muncie attached...went in over the DS fender...car up on jackstands..one guy under car one in front and me on the sides.....no sweat...thanks for all the tips guys...

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Glad everything came out (and went back in) alright.

Wasn't that fun? Good luck with the break-in.

 

[waterboy1976]

Breakin???.....yeah we havent fired her yet....nows iM GETTIN NERVOUSSSSSSSSSSSS

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Not to worry, once she starts just keep the RPM's over 2500 for the first 20 minutes. That will break in the cam lobes in. Your'e going to smell the paint burning off your exhaust and it may even glow orange, but all will be well. Don't worrry about setting the timing exactly, just get it close enough to run until the cam is broken in.

 

[mike weyman]

was your heart in your throat when it was passing over the fender and front end?all i could think of was "what if the chain snaps??" i couldn't wait till it was in far enough that it wouldn't destroy the car if it fell mike.