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Instrument and Gage Lights

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tifton81
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Tifton81

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Need help in finding the problem with no instrument lights. Problem started when I decided to replace the Headlight switch due to no dome light except when the door was open. I bought a new switch and put it in only to have it get super heated in about 5 seconds of power to it and burning smell from the switch. It blew a 20 amp fuse so I replaced it. I have just installed another new switch and it seems ok but now I have no instrument lights. I checked the 7.5 amp which is supposed to be the fuse for them and it looks good. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Are there more fuses that I should be looking for and if so, where would they be.

Please help.....can't sleep in Tifton
 
Sounds like you have another "open" (burnt wire or trace) behind the dash now. I'd start by buying an electrical schematic, removing the dash and tracing the power from the fuse box to find the open. Then keep looking until you find the short that probably caused all of it.
good luck
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Thanks Lone73......I think the short that caused the problem was the new Headlight switch. It got super hot in about 5 seconds, the round spring wire (don't know the name for it) on the switch turned bright red and boy I burnt my thumb just trying to get it out before it did damage to my dash. I think it might either be in the connecter or possible the wire from the switch to the harness. Does that make any sence?
 
the 'round spring wire' on thre headlite switch,is the reisistor for the dash lites that make brighter or dimmer which ever you preferwhen the lites are on,if that is getting 'super hot' I would start by looking in the wires for the dash lites 1st,your problem should be in there!!!


bill.......:w
 
Thanks Bill81vette- I'm in the processing of testing the wires now. Wish me luck.
 
Ok, the second new Head Light switch is in and I have rechecked the fuses. they all apear to be fine. No Dash Lights. I can't get to the wires to really look at them without taking the dash out. This is over my head. I guess I will need to take it to someone who knows electrical circuits and tracing down the short. I just can't twist my body the way I would need to to get to it......with that said, anyone know of a good shop to take it to in South Georgia?
 
I'd say your next step should be to start checking ground straps. Given that the body is fiberglass (non-conductive) grounding issues are more common than the metal bodied cars. I'm having a brain fart over where the ground straps are for the dash lights. For some reason, I'm thinking driver's kick panel... 14 guage black wire leading from the back of the headlight switch...

Any electrical gurus out there going to help out?

-Mac
 
like mac said start checking your ground connections...make sure they are tight they are all over that thing!!

its fun trying to be a contortionist isnt it???!!!!!!!!:ugh


bill......:w
 
Thanks Mac and Bill.....When I recover from last weekend and this weekends adventure I'll start looking again. I had a 77 and the replacement of the switch corrected the problem. At least my headlights pop up together and instantly now, just can't see how fast I'm going, which isn't a bad thing, right?
 
:w Wiley,

When you say you have no instrument lights, does this also include the center cluster of gauges, map light and radio??

The obvious is to make sure the switch is correctly wired and the dimmer function works. You can check voltage from the switch dimmer to see if it is working.

There is a ground strap for the entire dash along side the drivers side up along the door frame under the kick panel and below the windshield, make sure the connection is clean and making good contact. There is another common ground point on the back of the Speedo/Tach cluster as well as the center console cluster.

It sounds like a bad connection to ground, IF all the lights are not working or the switch may be wired wrong... Everything else works, Tach? Radio? glovebox light? Light up under the lic plate? (walk around light) Sometimes when a ground is bad it effects other circuits close to the effected circuit ;)

Good Luck..

Bud
 
Thanks Rare81, I'll check those also. The radio, dimer switch on the column, and dome light function on the Headlight switch all work. When I installed the first new switch, it got red hot (glowing hot) within 5 seconds of power to it and it blew the 20amp fuse for the parking lights and brake lights. With the second new switch in, no fuses are blowing, but the7.5amp fuse for the instrument cluster and console gages seems not to be getting power. I'm betting that the short might be between the switch and the fuse box, but all the wires coming from switch go into a wrapped bundle of wires and I can't see where they come out. After I recover from all the twisting and bending, I'm going to check them out. I'll post my findings and see if it might help someone else in the future. Thanks for your help.
 

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