Intake oil leak

[Achilles]

My 86 has an oil leak coming from the rear of my intake and thought since I have to tear down the top end, I thought this will give me a chance to clean up my valve covers as well. Now, what mods can I do to this stock engine once I have it apart? I will most likely do the coolant bi-pass at the TB, (if that makes any difference, performance wise). I've heard about plugging the vacuum hose to the FP regulator increases fuel pressure. Any truth to that? How about roller rockers? And what ratio? Any other ideas?I'm not pulling the heads BTW.

 

[MBDiagMan]

I think that 1.6 rockers would be worth your while. Use a product called "The Right Stuff" as the sealant for your intake ends. It is expensive and darn well worth it.

Good luck,

 

[G Winter]

A word of advise on the ends of the intake. Be very sure the surfaces of the intake and block where you use the Right Stuff are clean and free of any oil.
Any oil at all will cause a leak.

Glenn

 

[MBDiagMan]

Yes, as with any glue or sealant, the surfaces should be as clean and dry as you can possibly get them.

That said, Right Stuff would probably hold fine if you just slapped it on. It is an amazing product that I have seen do amazing things. I have seen pretty significant oil leaks fixed by simply taking some of the Right Stuff and just jamming it in the hole without even cleaning the oil out. I can't think of any other sealant of any kind with which this will work.

I don't recommend using it on a dirty or oily surface, but I just wanted to point out the value of this stuff while it is being discussed.

Have a great day,

 

[Achilles]

I think that 1.6 rockers would be worth your while. Use a product called "The Right Stuff" as the sealant for your intake ends. It is expensive and darn well worth it.

Good luck,

I was thinking that new 1.6 rockers would be a good idea for a little zip. I'll look for "The Right Stuff" too. Now that I have the runners off, I noticed I have 2 cracked injectors. Might as well replace them all, but I think I should stick to the stock 24#. Any suggestions on which brand name to get. What about Bosch?

 

[MBDiagMan]

Unless you are planning on changing to different flow rate injectors, I would just replace the bad ones. I have replaced individual injectors on numerous occasions and it worked out well.

Typically when I have replaced an injector or two it was because they were stuck. If you have cracked ones are they still working okay? If so then replacing them would only be for cosmetic reasons.

I have never noticed much difference from one injector brand to the next. I have usually gotten them from the Chevy house, but the ones from the indy parts houses are okay too. Maybe others have had different experiences with different brands.

Good luck,

 

[Achilles]

Thanks doc

Now, any idea where I can find "The Right Stuff?"

Can't seem to find it. Maybe NAPA once they open Monday.

 

[Edmond]

You can get a set of 8 injectors off eBay for $200 bucks. Do a search and you'll find them. For $200, I would replace all of them so they're matched.

 

[MBDiagMan]

I get the Right Stuff at Auto Zone. I think it is a permatex product, so you should be able to get it at most auto parts houses.

As far as replacing the entire set of injectors because one or two are bad, it is just not necessary unless you are changing flow rates of the injectors. It's not like tires, shocks or brakes where they all should be replaced as a set.

Good luck,

 

[Achilles]

Thanks Doc, I'll check Auto Zone today. If I just replace those injectors that are damaged, the manual recomends replacing the O-rings once the injectors are removed from the fuel rail (which they are). Are the O-rings a parts house or GM item and should I have the old injectors professionally cleaned (very dirty) or can I clean them myself? And if so, how do I do that?

John

 

[MBDiagMan]

Yes, you should replace all o-rings while it is apart and use a thin coat of gun grease on them to help get them in place. I have always gotten the o-rings at the Chevy house. I have never tried getting them any where else.

Replace the o-rings on both ends of the injectors. I'm sorry that I forgot to point this out. It is a very good thing that you are reading the manual. Sometimes the bottom o-rings get old and crack and serve as a source of a vacuum leaking leading to a poor idle. So, if you replace them while the rails are off, you can prevent this from happening to you.

Also this is a very good time to inspect the EGR valve and its control module. If you have no codes set there's probably no problem but just keep it in mind.

Also be prepared to see lots of gunk in the plenum. This would be a good time to clean it out.

Good luck,

 

[Achilles]

Thanks for your help Doc. You're making this process much easier for me. The intake, runners, plenum & valve covers are getting cold dipped today...should get them back tomorrow. Found "The Right Stuff" at Auto Zone. What about cleaning the old injectors? Can I adequately do that myself, or have it done?

Thanks again

John

 

[MBDiagMan]

Sorry John, but I've never cleaned injectors for cosmetic reasons. I would think that you could simply spray them with carb cleaner and blow them off with compressed air or maybe wipe them with a rag while the cleaner is on them. If you are careful not to get it in the business ends of the injector, you might could use ArmorAll or Son of a Gun on them to make them look good, but seal off the ends so you don't get anything other than gasoline or carb cleaner in there. Maybe someone else has a better idea.

Good luck,

 

[Achilles]

Actually, I was only concerned with the cleaning of the injector tips which are pretty dirty. But I think I'm just going to replace all of them. I found a set of ACCELS in the Jegs catalog for about $230. Maybe it's old age, but I can't remember if the stock units are 22# or 24#.

 

[Achilles]

Actually, I was only concerned with the cleaning of the injector tips which are pretty dirty. But I think I'm just going to replace all of them. I found a set of ACCELS in the Jegs catalog for about $230. Maybe it's old age, but I can't remember if the stock units are 22# or 24#. I thought they were 24, but now I'm unsure. Do you happen to know?

Thanks for the reply

John

 

[Achilles]

Sorry, I don't know how I double posted:eyerole

 

[Achilles]

Ok, after searching through some older posts re: injectors, I can see that the ACCEL injector is not a popular choice. I checked out Fiveomotorsports web page and I can get a pretty good deal on the Bosch pink top (22#) injectors.

 

[Edmond]

Ok, after searching through some older posts re: injectors, I can see that the ACCEL injector is not a popular choice. I checked out Fiveomotorsports web page and I can get a pretty good deal on the Bosch pink top (22#) injectors.

Check out their eBay auctions as well. I think they cost a little bit less on eBay than their website. Those are the injectors I got for $220 shipped. They are brand new, I did not smell any gas and they still smell like plastic. Definitely worth it, IMO.

You're right, the Accel injectors are not a popular choice. I have not read that many great things about them when compared to the FiveO injectors, which are made by Ford.

 

[Achilles]

Edmond, did you get the pink top injectors?

I ordered mine yesterday from fiveo. About $300 w/ shipping.

Hopefully I only have to do this once.

 

[Edmond]

Edmond, did you get the pink top injectors?

I ordered mine yesterday from fiveo. About $300 w/ shipping.

Hopefully I only have to do this once.

Yes, they are the pink top ones; I got mine from one of FiveO's eBay auctions for $220 including shipping. They're the 22 lb. injectors.

Here they are:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chev...ewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQitemZ7999992515QQrdZ1