1978 Vette, 4 spd, L82, Interior in good condition, car was keyed on the passenger side, spider crack on driver side exterior, cracks on nose, noisey lifters, driver side head lamp didn't come up.....Everything else is OK.....$6,500?
Is This a Good Deal?
- Thread starter BrianG
- Start date
the bodywork and new paint alone will probably run you $5K - $9K.
The noisy lifters could be one of multiple issues from relatively inexpensive to expensive to fix....
The headlight not coming up could be a simple vacuum line issue, or something a bit more complex (meaning more expensive).
If you like project cars and can do a lot of the work yourself it could be worth it. If you need to pay a shop to do everything it's going to cost you more money. Depends on you really.
is it still the original L82 motor? Are you sure it's really an original L82 car to begin with? The VIN will tell you if it's an original L82 car and the stamppad on the motor will tell you if it's the original motor or not.
if it's really an original L82 4-speed and it's still the original motor in the car it's probably worth it to get it and fix it up as L82 4-speeds were fairly rare. If it's not an original L82 car or it's not the original motor than when you are done you most likely will end up having more in the car than it's worth.
The noisy lifters could be one of multiple issues from relatively inexpensive to expensive to fix....
The headlight not coming up could be a simple vacuum line issue, or something a bit more complex (meaning more expensive).
If you like project cars and can do a lot of the work yourself it could be worth it. If you need to pay a shop to do everything it's going to cost you more money. Depends on you really.
is it still the original L82 motor? Are you sure it's really an original L82 car to begin with? The VIN will tell you if it's an original L82 car and the stamppad on the motor will tell you if it's the original motor or not.
if it's really an original L82 4-speed and it's still the original motor in the car it's probably worth it to get it and fix it up as L82 4-speeds were fairly rare. If it's not an original L82 car or it's not the original motor than when you are done you most likely will end up having more in the car than it's worth.
6880 Mike
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Run the numbers and post them. You say it's an L-82, but have you checked?
$6500 sounds reasonable for a project car, but how much of the work can you do yourself?
FWIW: Almost every rubber nosed Shark has been whanged a time or two. You'd be surprised how completely easy it is to run the point of that front bumper on to something. Been there, done that.
$6500 sounds reasonable for a project car, but how much of the work can you do yourself?
FWIW: Almost every rubber nosed Shark has been whanged a time or two. You'd be surprised how completely easy it is to run the point of that front bumper on to something. Been there, done that.
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That sounds like it's on the cusp of being a good deal, but possibly a bit high. Like others asked, "Who's gonna be turning the wrench on it?"
As for it maybe being an L82, IMHO, I don't know that having an L82 versus an L48 is realllly going to make that much of a difference in the grand scheme of things. What's your purpose for getting the car?
Restore & resell? By the time you finally finish restoring and prepping for sale, you'll have so much money dumped into it that the fact that it's an L82 won't cover the difference of rebuilding it versus rebuilding an L48. Will an L82 be worth more? Yes. THAT much more? Probably not...What's the difference now? How much less would you expect to pay if the car was just the base L48? See what I'm getting at here?
Just to have it to drive? You'll likely fix it up to a certain point or completely rebuild it overtime from top to bottom. Again, that difference between an L48 and L82 will probably be lost over that period of time.
Just my less than 2¢...
As for it maybe being an L82, IMHO, I don't know that having an L82 versus an L48 is realllly going to make that much of a difference in the grand scheme of things. What's your purpose for getting the car?
Restore & resell? By the time you finally finish restoring and prepping for sale, you'll have so much money dumped into it that the fact that it's an L82 won't cover the difference of rebuilding it versus rebuilding an L48. Will an L82 be worth more? Yes. THAT much more? Probably not...What's the difference now? How much less would you expect to pay if the car was just the base L48? See what I'm getting at here?
Just to have it to drive? You'll likely fix it up to a certain point or completely rebuild it overtime from top to bottom. Again, that difference between an L48 and L82 will probably be lost over that period of time.
Just my less than 2¢...
craig32
Well-known member
Andre (Evolution 80) has it right. You don't have a Corvette listed under 'my Corvette' so I'm assuming you want it for you. The 78-79's weren't the most sought after, if you do your own work and you have the money (or haggling ability) go for it. We can get you through the headlight problem. You can get fiberglass (or 'Tru-Flex) bumpers front and rear (you can put the 80-82 rear bumper on it) If you take your time getting it how you want it, by the time you're done, you'll probably know someone who will paint it right at a good price. Like he said, in the GSOT (grand scheme of things), does it really matter if it's an L-82? A good running 350 will push that car way past it's 28 year old suspension's capabilities!
Just my opinion.
Craig
Just my opinion.
Craig
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Three more things...(for now!:L)
1) Welcome to the CAC!
2) I say this to everyone looking to buy their first vette, and an older one at that: If you can afford $10K vette, then find the best $10K vette you can. If you go in thinking, "I can buy this for $6500 and have $3500 left over to fix it up," then you'll probably come out behind. It's goofy math, but most of the time, putting $3500 into a $6500 vette is not going to return you a $10K vette.
Buy the most you can actually afford. (Don't get suckered paying too much, but find one that's a steal at $10K or whatever your budget is.) When you get the car, the first thing you want to do is drive it, not park it in your garage and have it sit there for weeks/months while you get it in running condition. Unless you like tinkering and that's the main reason for getting it. (I'm a driver, not a wrench-turner.)
3) BE PATIENT! There are tons of vettes out there, especially C3's. You can find many a good deal on them too. There's a nice selection here in the C3 "for sale" forum. Unless you find your absolute dream vette or a deal that just too good to pass up, then wait. You'll pass one up today and likely find another qualifying candidate next week. Just in the past month or so I've seen some beautiful rides advertised here that were being nearly given away due to divorce, or new baby, or simply needing to get a different car. I hate hearing people being forced to part with their cars, but hey...a steal is a steal! There's plenty of members around the CAC that if you do find something, run it by us. If somone is close to the car, I've seen members volunteer to go out and inspect the car for potential buyers. (I've done it myself for people.)
Also, and this only applies if you are in a climate that has a cold season (anywhere north), you'll find better deals in the fall because people don't want to have to store their car over the winter. In the same line of thinking, you'll pay the most in the spring because the "driving fever" is the strongest.
1) Welcome to the CAC!
2) I say this to everyone looking to buy their first vette, and an older one at that: If you can afford $10K vette, then find the best $10K vette you can. If you go in thinking, "I can buy this for $6500 and have $3500 left over to fix it up," then you'll probably come out behind. It's goofy math, but most of the time, putting $3500 into a $6500 vette is not going to return you a $10K vette.
Buy the most you can actually afford. (Don't get suckered paying too much, but find one that's a steal at $10K or whatever your budget is.) When you get the car, the first thing you want to do is drive it, not park it in your garage and have it sit there for weeks/months while you get it in running condition. Unless you like tinkering and that's the main reason for getting it. (I'm a driver, not a wrench-turner.)
3) BE PATIENT! There are tons of vettes out there, especially C3's. You can find many a good deal on them too. There's a nice selection here in the C3 "for sale" forum. Unless you find your absolute dream vette or a deal that just too good to pass up, then wait. You'll pass one up today and likely find another qualifying candidate next week. Just in the past month or so I've seen some beautiful rides advertised here that were being nearly given away due to divorce, or new baby, or simply needing to get a different car. I hate hearing people being forced to part with their cars, but hey...a steal is a steal! There's plenty of members around the CAC that if you do find something, run it by us. If somone is close to the car, I've seen members volunteer to go out and inspect the car for potential buyers. (I've done it myself for people.)
Also, and this only applies if you are in a climate that has a cold season (anywhere north), you'll find better deals in the fall because people don't want to have to store their car over the winter. In the same line of thinking, you'll pay the most in the spring because the "driving fever" is the strongest.
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KANE
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Three things come to my mind-
If you look into the costs of the repairs you'll need and you can live with those figures... by all means- BUY IT.
If you plan on customizing or restoring it over time and the costs work for you... then BUY IT.
If you are looking for a steal, or the car to need less than $6K in repairs to get it to the level of a $12K car... THEN RUN LIKE THE DEVIL IS CHASING YOU!
If you look into the costs of the repairs you'll need and you can live with those figures... by all means- BUY IT.
If you plan on customizing or restoring it over time and the costs work for you... then BUY IT.
If you are looking for a steal, or the car to need less than $6K in repairs to get it to the level of a $12K car... THEN RUN LIKE THE DEVIL IS CHASING YOU!
- Thread starter
- #8
craig32
Well-known member
Hey Brian,
The car came from the factory with an L82. Look on the block in front of the passenger's side head, there is a 'stamp pad' that will have a couple sets on numbers stamped. One should include the last 5 of the VIN, the other will be a date code. One or the other will have a 3 letter suffix, which should indicate the transmission application.
Good to know you'll be doing your own work, that's half the fun!
Craig
The car came from the factory with an L82. Look on the block in front of the passenger's side head, there is a 'stamp pad' that will have a couple sets on numbers stamped. One should include the last 5 of the VIN, the other will be a date code. One or the other will have a 3 letter suffix, which should indicate the transmission application.
Good to know you'll be doing your own work, that's half the fun!
Craig
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BrianG said:
I did some checking for you to give you sort of a baseline of what they are going for.
According to Vette-N-Vestments ... Here are the numbers..
1978 T Top Coupe.
High Price $15,000
Low Price $ 3500
Average Price $8300
L82 adds $1500 to the value
Factory Slotted Wheels add $500
Everyone has an opinion of what you should do but its you that has to make the decision to buy or not.
Hope this helps .
- Thread starter
- #11
craig32
Well-known member
BrianG said:
Yeah, kinda - it's probably behind the smog pump or A/C pump or alternator. . . not to mention they will be stamped in, not embossed on. If you're really familiar with engines, it's a smallish 'tab' sticking out at the top of the block, where the bottom of the head mounts, the driver's side will be flush, but the passenger's side has a small tab. If you go to the '1978 Corvette' page of this website, you'll find all the info under the identification section. Hope this helps.
Craig
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M
MusclesWit350
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Sorry to butt in but I have a quick question -- How come in 78-79vettes if theres an 8 in the 5th spot of the vin its a L82 but in 80 if its an 8 its an L48? Well atleast thats what I was told.... Am I mistaken?
the engine stamp pad is on the front of the motor, in front of the passengerside head.
there are towo pictures on this page of my website that show you what the stamp pad looks like and how the numbers should look although the numbers on yours will be different. This one is also a '78 L82 but your numbers will be different as it's a different date car and the VIN # is different.
http://69.253.166.197/page1/page127/page133/page148/page148.html
About halfway down the page look for two pictures titled 'Stamp Pad"
there are towo pictures on this page of my website that show you what the stamp pad looks like and how the numbers should look although the numbers on yours will be different. This one is also a '78 L82 but your numbers will be different as it's a different date car and the VIN # is different.
http://69.253.166.197/page1/page127/page133/page148/page148.html
About halfway down the page look for two pictures titled 'Stamp Pad"
6880 Mike
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BrianG said:
VIN is correct for the optional L-82 (the first 4). Engine asembly date and partial VIN of the car are stamped on the pad at the front of the right head.
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