Kid_Again
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2004
- Messages
- 1,171
- Location
- NJ - Which exit you from?
- Corvette
- 65 SB Roadster, 66 BB Coupe
JohnZ;worship
...thanks to anyone else who can help
...i have the small block back on the road and the essential modifications are new JEGS aluminum heads (small intake runners, 2.08" intake valves and 72cc chambers to keep the compression reasonable) plus the vortech blow-through carb kit..i also note that I installed a boost timing master and have yet to have the need to use it, but it's there if i need to back off on the timing
...i have lots of little tunig stuff to do but here's the major problem...it goes back to one reason why i changed out the old iron eagle heads (in addition to allowing a higher CR with aluminum heads)....the intake manifold did not sit low enough in the valley which allowed oil infiltration into each cylinder and i had two possibilities, either the heads or the block deck was not milled flat and i decided to keep the block and give the new heads a try.....
..the problem is that i have a slight coolant leak on the rear of the driver's side, where the head meets the block..i used new head gaskets, of course, but i wonder whether the heads are tight enough because i sent an email to ARP, asking them for the head bolt torque specs....i'll have to dig up their email but they gave two specs, stock and a lower torque spec if the ARP bolt lube was used and since i had the lube, i followed the latter route...
..so, do you think i haven't torqued them tight enough or are there other things to consider?
...since i was off a few extra days over the holiday, I decided to play around with some ideas....one, which was volunteered by VNV, was for me to torque down the bolts to stock specs since i am so ****ed that it looks like i'm going to order a zz383 short block and start over again - so there's no big deal if i pull the threads....
...i did something in between, i added another 5 ft/lbs of torque to each bolt in the correct pattern (it appears the original torque setting was about 45 ft/lbs if my clicker is correct) AND i added some gack which is advertised to seal head gasket coolant leaks...i know, i know, that's a bubba fix but both fixes together have really cut down on the leakage.....any thoughts, besides going with a new short block????
..as an aside, i have LOTS of little things to dial in, for example, the oil supply to the compressor..in short, i had an oil leak at the compressor and it was clear that the problem was NOT the high pressure inlet line - the return line kinked on me and i was having blow-by at the hose fitting on the compressor:eyerole...so, i did a "VNV", made sure i had a large loop at the compressor and nylon tied the return line securely to the compressor bracket to keep the correct orientation and move it away from the headers......i immediately noted a 5psi drop in oil pressure at the gauge and now i have no leaks...it appears my beloved engine rebuilder put in a high pressure, high output oil pump during the rebuild and perhaps that ultimately made sense, given how i modified the oiling system...yeah, they all came from the factory that way
...any thoughts are welcome!
...thanks to anyone else who can help
...i have the small block back on the road and the essential modifications are new JEGS aluminum heads (small intake runners, 2.08" intake valves and 72cc chambers to keep the compression reasonable) plus the vortech blow-through carb kit..i also note that I installed a boost timing master and have yet to have the need to use it, but it's there if i need to back off on the timing
...i have lots of little tunig stuff to do but here's the major problem...it goes back to one reason why i changed out the old iron eagle heads (in addition to allowing a higher CR with aluminum heads)....the intake manifold did not sit low enough in the valley which allowed oil infiltration into each cylinder and i had two possibilities, either the heads or the block deck was not milled flat and i decided to keep the block and give the new heads a try.....
..the problem is that i have a slight coolant leak on the rear of the driver's side, where the head meets the block..i used new head gaskets, of course, but i wonder whether the heads are tight enough because i sent an email to ARP, asking them for the head bolt torque specs....i'll have to dig up their email but they gave two specs, stock and a lower torque spec if the ARP bolt lube was used and since i had the lube, i followed the latter route...
..so, do you think i haven't torqued them tight enough or are there other things to consider?
...since i was off a few extra days over the holiday, I decided to play around with some ideas....one, which was volunteered by VNV, was for me to torque down the bolts to stock specs since i am so ****ed that it looks like i'm going to order a zz383 short block and start over again - so there's no big deal if i pull the threads....
...i did something in between, i added another 5 ft/lbs of torque to each bolt in the correct pattern (it appears the original torque setting was about 45 ft/lbs if my clicker is correct) AND i added some gack which is advertised to seal head gasket coolant leaks...i know, i know, that's a bubba fix but both fixes together have really cut down on the leakage.....any thoughts, besides going with a new short block????
..as an aside, i have LOTS of little things to dial in, for example, the oil supply to the compressor..in short, i had an oil leak at the compressor and it was clear that the problem was NOT the high pressure inlet line - the return line kinked on me and i was having blow-by at the hose fitting on the compressor:eyerole...so, i did a "VNV", made sure i had a large loop at the compressor and nylon tied the return line securely to the compressor bracket to keep the correct orientation and move it away from the headers......i immediately noted a 5psi drop in oil pressure at the gauge and now i have no leaks...it appears my beloved engine rebuilder put in a high pressure, high output oil pump during the rebuild and perhaps that ultimately made sense, given how i modified the oiling system...yeah, they all came from the factory that way
...any thoughts are welcome!