Just ordered a Nitrous setup

[Mad-Mic]

From Bob over at Advanced Auto of Cape Coral seen Legion's post about his that he ordered and since it was such a great deal I ordered mine today also!

This is Legion's post
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81299

Here is the post about the setup from Bob
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81183

Here is a similar kit from Jegs
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...goryId=24411&parentCategoryId=12043&langId=-1


LS1 Nitrous Kit
The LS1 nitrous kit from Nitrous Works is adjustable from 75 - to 125 HP. The system, which includes a single nozzle and injects both fuel and nitrous, is easy to install in the air intake tract, and provides the safest horsepower increases available. It is compatible with OEM engine components and does not require an additional fuel regulator or upgrade.
Complete - Power Wing nozzle, calibrated jets, solenoids, hose, filter, hardware, instructions, 14 foot / 4 AN stainless bottle feed line and a 10 lb. capacity bottle.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...goryId=24411&parentCategoryId=12043&langId=-1

listed at $549 Bob's lists at $375


Nice guy and knowledgable in knowing how i wanted to set the kit up for an L98.

Thanks Bob!

my 388 or 406 setup will be Nasty this year

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

Mike,
Thank you and I hope you enjoy your system... I will caution you, nitrous IS habit forming!

Thanks again!

 

[Mad-Mic]

Mike,
Thank you and I hope you enjoy your system... I will caution you, nitrous IS habit forming!

Thanks again!

Thanks Bob! can't wait to hook this baby up! thankfully I got enough parts to build 3 vettes so if something breaks I can always put another motor in it or trans now we will see if my D36 likes a 150 shot out of the hole .... hehe

should put me mid 11's with a bolt on 2.59 geared stock trannied C4...hehe with a 150 shot and the 388 or 406 combo low 10's on the bottle

 

[Vettefan87]

Mike where are you mounting the bottle at? I know you have a coupe, but for me space is a little more limited. If I could find a nice "hidden" spot I am thinking Nitrous might something for me in the future. Generally how much is it to fill a 10 lb. bottle?

 

[Mad-Mic]

Mike where are you mounting the bottle at? I know you have a coupe, but for me space is a little more limited. If I could find a nice "hidden" spot I am thinking Nitrous might something for me in the future. Generally how much is it to fill a 10 lb. bottle?

well i'm gonna see if i can mount it in the spare tire holder. if not in the back will be fine.

nitrous costs between 3 and 6 bucks a pound. i think i can get it between 3 and 3.50 lb here. i got a few friends that own performance shot and are certified nitrous distributors

 

[Vettefan87]

What would be a "safe zone" for me to run on a stock motor 50-75 shot? How many uses would I get at a setup like that?
​

 

[Mad-Mic]

What would be a "safe zone" for me to run on a stock motor 50-75 shot? How many uses would I get at a setup like that?

​

rule of thumb is 1/2 the total stock hp rating. so if your at 240 then 120 or 125 shot *could* be safe. as long as you tune for the shot it will work. nitrous only affects the weakest link. that would be the rear and trans i think. a 75 shot would be safe and so would a 100 shot a 125 shot and even a 150 shot would be safe if you tune for it. i know a guy out in hawaii running a stock D36 running low 11's on a 150 shot out of the hole. i think his is an 89 on mostly stock motor.

so what all that said i think on a street car using it on the street and sometimes the strip would be safe and you'll get 100's of passes out of it. doing it every day i don't know. you usually get 5-6 full 1/4 mile passes in a 10 lbs bottle on a 150 shot i'm told on the street that could be 10 or 20 runs

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

rule of thumb is 1/2 the total stock hp rating. so if your at 240 then 120 or 125 shot *could* be safe. as long as you tune for the shot it will work. nitrous only affects the weakest link. that would be the rear and trans i think. a 75 shot would be safe and so would a 100 shot a 125 shot and even a 150 shot would be safe if you tune for it. i know a guy out in hawaii running a stock D36 running low 11's on a 150 shot out of the hole. i think his is an 89 on mostly stock motor.

so what all that said i think on a street car using it on the street and sometimes the strip would be safe and you'll get 100's of passes out of it. doing it every day i don't know. you usually get 5-6 full 1/4 mile passes in a 10 lbs bottle on a 150 shot i'm told on the street that could be 10 or 20 runs

Damn, Mike!
I might have to have you be a technical advisor.. I couldn't have said it better myself.

However, remember that for best results to pull back 2 degrees of timing per 50 HP shot (as a general rule). This is obviously more critical on a modified engine with higher compression rather than a streeter. Lots of guys are running 150 shots with no timing retard, so you'd be fine with a 75-100 shot. However, if you've had tuning done or have a "hi-perf" chip, nitrous does not like advanced ignition timing, so you will require a method of retarding the timing.

 

[Vettefan87]

Sounds very tempting....​

 

[Mad-Mic]

Damn, Mike!
I might have to have you be a technical advisor.. I couldn't have said it better myself.

However, remember that for best results to pull back 2 degrees of timing per 50 HP shot (as a general rule). This is obviously more critical on a modified engine with higher compression rather than a streeter. Lots of guys are running 150 shots with no timing retard, so you'd be fine with a 75-100 shot. However, if you've had tuning done or have a "hi-perf" chip, nitrous does not like advanced ignition timing, so you will require a method of retarding the timing.

when do i start?

talking about timing, i'm eventually going to throw a timing retard controller in it. most likely this unit.

Accel 300+ Ignition

View larger image
Product images may differ from actual product appearance.

Dare To Compare
The 300+ ignition system was designed to be the most compact, lightest, most powerful and most reliable ignition system available. Fully epoxy encapsulated for water and vibration resistance, the 300+ was designed to perform in extremely demanding environments. The 300+ has the lowest operating current draw, and supplies the highest energy into the coil when compared to other ignition systems in its class.The 300+ also features an integral rev limiter which can easily be changed with rotary dial-no need to use removable chips! Reliability is unsurpassed with the microprocessor controlled, fully epoxy encapsulated design!

with this so i can control all functions inside the cockpit

Accel 375+ Digital Multi-Function Ignition Module

View larger image
Product images may differ from actual product appearance.

The 375+ features a unique design that incorporates a compact control unit that can be mounted out of sight inside the car with a remote display/ input unit close at hand for real-time programming or monitioring. The 375+ Accessory control harness lugs directly into the 300+ box, allowing the custom software and dual RISC microprocessors to fully interface with each other.


Features:
Two stages of sequential rev limiting control from 1,000 to 12,700 RPM, in 100 RPM increments
Window RPM switch from 1,000 to 12,700 RPM, 100 RPM increments
Fixed nitrous oxide or high-speed timing retard from 0.1 to 15.0 degrees in 0.1-degree increments
Start timing retard from 0.1 to 15.0 degrees in 0.1-degree increments, beginning at 100 RPM, dialing out at 500 RPM
Proportional boost timing retard from 0.1 to 4.0 degrees per PSI of boost in 0.1-degree increments (Requires the use of a MAP sensor)
Selectable to read either 2 or 3 BAR MAP Sensor signals
Tachometer display mode with 10 RPM resolutions and moving point-averaging software for clear resolution
Real time manifold pressure display mode displays vacuum in inches of Hg and boost in PSI (Requires the use of a MAP sensor)


until i get this and install it, i am currently running 12 degrees advanced now. should i retard back to 6 or less than 6 or do you think 12 degrees as is now is good for a 75-100 shot?

 

[vetteboy86]

Well if I was only going to run a 75 hp shot what extra tuning would I need other than a good tune for the current setup I have now?

 

[Mad-Mic]

Well if I was only going to run a 75 hp shot what extra tuning would I need other than a good tune for the current setup I have now?

a colder set of plugs and depending on what kind of timing and or custom chip you are running pretty much nothing as long as the car is getting good fuel. Nitrous is not just plug and play. You should pull out the plugs after a pass or 2 and check for lean conditions unless you are running a wide band O2 sensor to monitor A/F. once the plugs check out on a few passes and the fuel is good you are ready to have fun

the safety parts you need at a bare minimum would be a window switch. this device sets when the nitrous comes in and turns off. example. set it for 3000 rpm and 5000 rpm. don't want to set it too low due to the fact the air volume is at it's lowest point and the gasoline will puddle in the intake track. if this happens and you are hitting the nitrous you could get a nitrous backfire. this is when your hood and intake go sailing in the air....lol

the more educated you are on nitrous the safer it is.

this kit Bob is offering is a basic kit. yes you can hook it up and let'er rip but you should be monitoring the system.

Window Switch
Fuel Cut off switch
Blow Down Tube
Purge
Bottle Warmer
Remote Bottle Opener
Nitrous Gauge
Fuel Pressure Gauge
nitrous controller aka progressive controller.

with this setup you can monitor and know if fuel drops into a lean condition the nitrous shuts off. This is a setup most drag/street racers are running. Some things you don't need if you got it covered with a switch like fuel pressure gauge if you don't want alot of gauges. Progressive controller controls everything from timing, window switch, Fuel Cut off switch, nitrous delay, nitrous percentage, and a bunch of other stuff depending on your setup you are building. most peuple don't run a progressive controller due to costs but serious racers do. imagine being able to run a 150 shot out of the hole. window switch is set at 2800 and WHAM you are back in the seat going sideways and spinning all the way into 3rd gear due to no traction and 150+ more rwhp and probably 200 lbs of torque at the wheels. now add a progressive controller and set it for 35% with a 2-3 second delay. this means the nitrous when it comes on will be at 35% of the total shot or in this case 150 shot and it gradually comes on until your at 100% of the 150 shot in 2-3 seconds and you are just planted in the seat trying to shift fast enough

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

when do i start?

talking about timing, i'm eventually going to throw a timing retard controller in it. most likely this unit.

Accel 300+ Ignition

View larger image
Product images may differ from actual product appearance.

Dare To Compare
The 300+ ignition system was designed to be the most compact, lightest, most powerful and most reliable ignition system available. Fully epoxy encapsulated for water and vibration resistance, the 300+ was designed to perform in extremely demanding environments. The 300+ has the lowest operating current draw, and supplies the highest energy into the coil when compared to other ignition systems in its class.The 300+ also features an integral rev limiter which can easily be changed with rotary dial-no need to use removable chips! Reliability is unsurpassed with the microprocessor controlled, fully epoxy encapsulated design!

with this so i can control all functions inside the cockpit

Accel 375+ Digital Multi-Function Ignition Module

View larger image
Product images may differ from actual product appearance.

The 375+ features a unique design that incorporates a compact control unit that can be mounted out of sight inside the car with a remote display/ input unit close at hand for real-time programming or monitioring. The 375+ Accessory control harness lugs directly into the 300+ box, allowing the custom software and dual RISC microprocessors to fully interface with each other.


Features:
Two stages of sequential rev limiting control from 1,000 to 12,700 RPM, in 100 RPM increments
Window RPM switch from 1,000 to 12,700 RPM, 100 RPM increments
Fixed nitrous oxide or high-speed timing retard from 0.1 to 15.0 degrees in 0.1-degree increments
Start timing retard from 0.1 to 15.0 degrees in 0.1-degree increments, beginning at 100 RPM, dialing out at 500 RPM
Proportional boost timing retard from 0.1 to 4.0 degrees per PSI of boost in 0.1-degree increments (Requires the use of a MAP sensor)
Selectable to read either 2 or 3 BAR MAP Sensor signals
Tachometer display mode with 10 RPM resolutions and moving point-averaging software for clear resolution
Real time manifold pressure display mode displays vacuum in inches of Hg and boost in PSI (Requires the use of a MAP sensor)


until i get this and install it, i am currently running 12 degrees advanced now. should i retard back to 6 or less than 6 or do you think 12 degrees as is now is good for a 75-100 shot?

Might want to take off about 2-4 degrees just to be safe (unless you're not getting ANY knock counts..not "a couple", but none). You oughta be good to go... this is assuming you've got some good fuel. With some VP racing unleaded, you can leave the timing where it is. The entire key with nitrous is AVOID DETONATION at all costs!

Funny..you mention a progressive nitrous controller in the next post... I have the NS PROgressive controller here (very cool piece), but it costs more than the system does!

 

[Mad-Mic]

Might want to take off about 2-4 degrees just to be safe (unless you're not getting ANY knock counts..not "a couple", but none). You oughta be good to go... this is assuming you've got some good fuel. With some VP racing unleaded, you can leave the timing where it is. The entire key with nitrous is AVOID DETONATION at all costs!

Funny..you mention a progressive nitrous controller in the next post... I have the NS PROgressive controller here (very cool piece), but it costs more than the system does!

no knock counts. i've been data logging for the last year playing with the tune myself (old school style tuning not chip burning) getting her thru emissions and stuff.

do you think i will have to upgrade my fuel pump and if so what do you recommend the walbro 255? or can i just go with an inline boost a pump? this question is for the stock setup as is now. Do you think the stock 20 lbs injectors will be fine? if i get an itch i might throw the ZZ409 cam or a Blower Cam i have with similar specs but on a split duration in and thats it until i get the heads.

with the stroker motor 388 or 406 i was going with 24 lbs injectors but for juice should i go with 28 or 30's? what do you recommend on this also?

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

You're alright as is for now... when you do go to the stroker, get a Walbro pump (you'll likely need it anyway}, and the 24# injectors should be ok, 26# would be about the most I'd use. 28's or 30's would be a bit on the rich side. If you're planning on going crazy with the nitrous shot (over 150), then you'll need to go with a different setup (direct port or plate) anyway, and will have to add a dedicated fuel source for the system. For the foreseeable future tho, you're fine.

Keep a clean fuel filter in the main fuel system, tho (change the replacement interval to 5000 miles, or how you see fit)...use a NAPA Gold 3481 or AC Delco GF481 filter..nothing else!

 

[Mad-Mic]

You're alright as is for now... when you do go to the stroker, get a Walbro pump (you'll likely need it anyway}, and the 24# injectors should be ok. If you're planning on going crazy with the nitrous shot (over 150), then you'll need to go with a different setup (direct port or plate) anyway, and will have to add a dedicated fuel source for the system. For the foreseeable future tho, you're fine.

Keep a clean fuel filter in the main fuel system, tho (change the replacement interval to 5000 miles, or how you see fit)...use a NAPA Gold 3481 or AC Delco GF481 filter..nothing else!

gotcha thanks

 

[Mad-Mic]

BTW this is the nitrous controller i am looking to get. cheap, fits the bill, and i've heard good things about Jacobs Electronics.

Jacobs Electronics Nitrous Mastermind

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Product images may differ from actual product appearance.

[FONT=helvetica,]Go Wide Open[/FONT] The Nitrous Mastermind provides proportional control of nitrous and fuel flow across a driver adjustable RPM range. This allows nitrous to start flowing sooner and controls it when it goes full open. Unique features include fuel shut-off when the rev limiter kicks in, preventing potential engine damage from nitrous/fuel buildup in the exhaust. Includes a precision rev limiter and shift LED, and comes complete with easy-to-follow instructions. Get the most from your engine and nitrous system with maximum safety and ease of use.


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View Image 566-383806 Nitrous Mastermind V8
$224.99

this is straight from Jacobs site

nitrous mastermind,8 cyl
The Nitrous Mastermind is an advanced driver adjustable nitrous controller with a built-in rev limiter. The Nitrous Mastermind works by pulsing the nitrous solenoids at the onset of nitrous flow (which is adjustable) and gradually reducing the pulsing until the "full flow" setting is reached. This greatly improves traction and reduces strain on driveline components. Additionally, the Nitrous Mastermind monitors fuel pressure, engine RPM, and full throttle conditions (using optional full throttle switch). Should a drop in fuel pressure occur, the Nitrous Mastermind immediately reacts and shuts off the nitrous flow, thereby protecting the engine from damage. The rev-limiter also protects the engine by shutting down the nitrous first then cutting out the ignition to progressively. This prevents a buildup of nitrous in the engine and exhaust that can cause damage when the ignition "cuts back in". The Nitrous Mastermind must be used in conjunction with an aftermarket ignition system.
Part Number: 383806

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

FYI

Everybody I've ever spoken with who has used Jacobs products ends up dumping them for MSD... This partains to their ignition systems and such. The Nitrous Mastermind has its supporters and detractors, so keep that in mind. NOS likes to rebadge MSD for their electronics, so you see what they think.

I'm not a shill for MSD, but I do believe in their products (used them for 25 years now).

 

[Mad-Mic]

Everybody I've ever spoken with who has used Jacobs products ends up dumping them for MSD... This partains to their ignition systems and such. The Nitrous Mastermind has its supporters and detractors, so keep that in mind. NOS likes to rebadge MSD for their electronics, so you see what they think.

I'm not a shill for MSD, but I do believe in their products (used them for 25 years now).

right on i'm still open to other products but seen that last year and did some research on it and stuff. don't worry i don't make haste decisions with out knowing everything pretty much