Killer back on the drawing board

[bossvette]

picture of ripper installed

the tremec with the shifter in the stock location is doable with cutting and welding of the shift handle, there is a thread about it on one of the Corvette web sites I really like the ripper it is much tighter then the TKO shifter. when I did mine three years ago Fortes told me there were shops that were replacing the hardened input shaft with soft chev style input shafts. I have in the neighborhood of 30,000 miles with no problems other then a broken rear spindle which I replaced both with HD aftermarket types.

 

[69MyWay]

The trans I have out in the shop right now came with a second shifter. It was suppose to be a high dollar replacement.

Here is a pic.

Is this a Ripper?

 

[bossvette]

it looks to me like a TKO shifter, I bought a "short throw shifter fits 3550/TKO" off e-bay thinking I was gettng something. But it turns out it was a TKO shifter which are shorter and tighter then the stock 3550 shifter the B&M is a CNC machined piece BTW I have two TKO shifters laying around if you start to cut yours up to move the shift location and need to go back original

 

[69MyWay]

More food for thought.

Here is a link to another TREMEC TR 3550 install:

5 speed transmissions.com

Price wise, and application wise, Keisler still has the most comprehensive package including the already available shifter re-location.

I am beginning to believe the TR 3550 I have out in the shop right now is not the best all around deal. I say this because by the time I pay what my buddy wants for it, then convert it, then go get the motor mount, drive shaft conversion, etc. etc, I will be right at what Keisler wants to knock it out all at one time.

Now, my mind is swimming with other thoughts. The six speed is more sexy, and has the most "curb appeal" as a major mod to the car. I am doing some research now on the VIPER T56 trans. I am told McCloud has bellhousings to fit the Chevy, but I can't find any links to that right now. A friend of mine can get a Viper reman trans for $1,900. So, I imagine by the time I do that, bellhousing, clutch mods, driveshaft mods, mount mods, speedo mods....possible console mods....I am right back to Keisler's $3,000, and or the Richmond six speed $3,000 finished price.

 

[69MyWay]

This is interesting, but the shifter is ALL WRONG!

http://ddperformance.com/GM%20T56.htm


Again, I am back in the $3K ball park, no matter what I do!

These guys won't sell the adapter plate seperate....I think they could make more $$$ if they did, as a lot of fellows like me are more than happy to junkyard hop for a used T56, and or have a T56 already sitting around.

 

[Stallion]

Wow, I didn't know that trannies were that expensive. Chris, will that be a hard thing to get in? Is that a hard repair to do, putting in a new transmission? I assume you are going to do it yourself...

 

[69MyWay]

Wow, I didn't know that trannies were that expensive. Chris, will that be a hard thing to get in? Is that a hard repair to do, putting in a new transmission? I assume you are going to do it yourself...

Auto vs. Stick on a C3 is really two different monsters. The Auto on a C3 is FAR easier to replace/service because the main frame cross member is a bolt in application. I could yank a auto trans on a C3 in less than an hour, and that includes the time to jack the car up.

A stick is a different story. The X member is welded solid making it more difficult to rotate and manipulate the trans position. The munice weighs about 100 lbs. With any stick, you have to align it perfectly with the clutch disc and center of the crankshaft in order to install it. That means lifting the trans up over the X member, twisting it straight, then sliding it forward in perfect symetry with the center of the crankshaft. This is hit and miss. Sometimes it slides in the first time. Most of the time, it requires pulling it forward and back, forward and back, turning the engine a tad, rotating the trans shaft, and in some cases, pulling the whole assembly back down, re-aligning the clutch with a clutch tool, then re-insterting. Then, you have to reassemble the shifter and adjust it.

A stick is 100 times more difficult to remove and install than an auto.

Yes, I do all this myself. The six speed in my 90 vette is much heavier than the Muncie, and can be very challenging. I have pulled those out several times, and prefer the lighter weight C3 trans, but the extra room found under a C4.

 

[Stallion]

Wow. :eek That's tough with the manual that much more harder. You are going with a manual, right Chris?

I would think the auto would be harder. It's more, but I see what you mean. Also, isn't the auto bolted? As the manual is welded?

 

[bossvette]

Personally, I remove the engine and trans together, it is a little more work but easier in the long run. I do not think you can get a tremec in without cutting the crossmember. I just think it is easier to use a hoist and spend a few extra hours then trying to jockey a hundred pounds up into place. I am a Tool and Diemaker and have learned that most times what seems like more work is actually easier and quicker. Also with a Lakewood it should not be too much trouble to drill and tap new mounting holes for the trans/or enlogate slightly the holes in the trans tabs which is what is done on the tremec. the only reason for an adapter plate would be shaft legnth, but any competent machine shop could make one. that is something you don't know untill you have all the pieces.

 

[M&W's72vette]

Chris, have you given any thought to modifying the crossmember and make it bolt in? I know exactly what you are talking about when you say turning and twisting the trans to get it out. I found you also have to hold your mouth just righ too...lol

 

[hotrodd]

Chris did you ever consider a 700r4 tranny,I got a Hughes and a 3.73 gear,does 2250 rpm in overdrive at 70 mph,It sure is a sweet combo in my car.Just a thought.

 

[69MyWay]

Chris did you ever consider a 700r4 tranny,I got a Hughes and a 3.73 gear,does 2250 rpm in overdrive at 70 mph,It sure is a sweet combo in my car.Just a thought.

Yep, I did, but I just can't get into doing an auto in the Vette. The last four we have owned have been sticks, after having two autos in a row. The stick is just a tad more exciting to me to drive.

However, I am headed for surgery number 2 on my right shoulder. If it keeps deteriating at the rate that it has at my age (32), I will need an auto if I don't want to be in pain evertime I am behind the wheel.

My Grand Am is an auto, my 3500 is an auto, so, I can get some relief when needed.


Back to the trans:

I have been given a conversion kit part number to upgrade the TKO I have out in the shop to GM specs for around $250. That means that between the purchase price, upgrade, and mods, I could have that in the car for around $1,000. Not a bad deal! Except, it is only a Five, and the shifter will be in the wrong spot. As much as I like to mod, I hate to chop up the otherwise perfect console plate on my 69.

I have also been offered an out of this world deal on a Richmond 6 (basically half price!). That would more than do the trick, but it is still double what I can build the TKO for after you consider welding, yoke, other mods.............

So, I have pretty much tossed the idea of a T56 out the window at this point and am waiting on some feedback about my other two choices.

Don't be surprised if you see Killer and Bruiser sporting matching overdrive transmissions in the not too distant future........

 

[Culprit]

Chris,

So you don't like the Keisler 5 spd direct replacement? Is that because you'd rather have the 6, or because you can get a deal on the Richmond or...?

I haven't decided yet, but if I do put an OD in, I think I'm going with the Keisler. Looks like the best deal going for my car and situation (read - a guy who doesn't have extra trannies laying around the garage :L ).

Good luck with the decision - sounds like you almost have your mind made up.


Culprit

 

[69MyWay]

Culprit,

I think the Keisler is an awesome package.....but, it is just a five. Nothing wrong with that, but as I weigh my options, I want the most bang for my buck as possible.

Some good news to report for my future project.

1. Sold the motor home
2. Sold the 90 Vette
3. I have a "job" coming up with a 70 Convertible for a friend of mine. I will be replacing the bird cage in his car, in exchange for some swaping and trading.

So, I am officially ready after a very long time of thinking and planning to kick this off.

It looks like the Richmond will be going in the car because:

1. Six gears (only one overdrive though)--.62 final drive
2. Direct use of my original clutch, hydraulic release bearing, etc.
3. Shifter will fall close to stock location with minimal mods
4. PRICE

The plan is to put Killer in my house garage that we usualy use just for parking. I will yank the trans and diff out as well as some other minor things. I have to send out my new 10 spline clutch disc and get it punched to a 26 (Quatermaster), and get a rebuild kit for my hydraulic release bearing.

It will take several weeks to get all the parts on the ground. In the meantime, I will be chopping up my buddies 70.

I hope that by OctoberVette (car show in Florida) the six is in the car, and all the bugs are out.

 

[Culprit]

Sounds like you've got a great plan there Chris. Look forward to hearing how it turns out.

Culprit

 

[bossvette]

when you do the birdcage can you take some pictures, I will have to do it on mine someday

 

[KANE]

Chris-

If the X member is welded in a stick, and easier to remove in an auto... then why not use an auto frame with a change over to a stick? Then you can drop the cross member. I didn't know the crossmembers were welded. I have only ridden in a handful of stick shifts and seen the undersides of even less.

Maybe I am just deprived of oxygen right nw- I just finished running with the dog- but aside from things like the clutch pedal and bracketry, is it then easier if you have had an auto from the start?

 

[69MyWay]

Chris-

If the X member is welded in a stick, and easier to remove in an auto... then why not use an auto frame with a change over to a stick? Then you can drop the cross member. I didn't know the crossmembers were welded. I have only ridden in a handful of stick shifts and seen the undersides of even less.

Maybe I am just deprived of oxygen right nw- I just finished running with the dog- but aside from things like the clutch pedal and bracketry, is it then easier if you have had an auto from the start?

Yes, I could swap the frame--but that would be MASSIVE, plus my frame numbers would no longer match the car vin.

However, the welded X member can be modified to as needed, and has been done many times.