66427-450
Well-known member
get a KO spinner wrench, and follow the directions, you won't have any problems (unless you have a poor fit between the adapter and the wheel) ...... and IMO, the best thing to do with the pins is toss them
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JohnZ said:It's essential to use anti-seize on the adapter/spinner threads, and on the conical spinner/wheel mating surface; without it, the threads tend to gall at high torque, and most of the effort you put into wailing on the spinner is wasted overcoming thread friction and mating surface friction. "Torque" doesn't keep them on - clamping force keeps them on, and you can't develop maximum clamping force with torque on the spinner unless the friction surfaces (threads and mating surface) are lubricated so they move relative to each other as you apply torque to the spinner. I always used a 4# shot-filled dead-blow plastic-coated hammer, and beat hell out of them; never had any loosen up (and marked them with a Sharpie for quick visual checks).
The genuine Halibrands on my Grand Sport were the same way, except they have longer ears on the spinners and are easier to wail on; I raced the car, so I added stainless safety wire from the end of the spinner to the spider of the wheel with a little slack built in for quick visual checks - if the wire was straight, they had backed off a little; but they never did - always used anti-seize on the threads and conical mating surfaces, never had one of the Halibrands loosen up either.