knock offs

[delorenzos]

I'm looking to buy knock offs for my 63. I'm trying to decide direct bolt on, or true knock off style. A friend of mine told me that there is a problem balancing true knock off's. I'm leaning towards bolt on, unless I can find an affordable original set. Does anyone have any comments about what way I should go?

 

[alps66]

As you research this a bit you'll find that the terms "original" and "affordable" are mutually exclusive when it comes to knock-off wheels (there was a used set of original Kelsey-Hayes wheels for sale at Carlisle at a laughable price well over $10K!). I'm in the process of putting my '66 back together after a fire a year ago. I had repro knock-offs on the car that were severely damaged. I always worried about whether the spinners were on securely enough. The insurance company gave me an allowance for refurbishing those wheels, but I opted to replace them with bolt-ons instead. No intention of trying to pretend that they're original. For judging, I'll be using standard steel wheels and original hubcaps.
Good luck!
Jeff
PS - There may also be some spacing issues because of the drum brakes on the '63, but someone else will have to chime in on that one.

 

[Dad]

I though I liked them also....

Knock off wheels…….. miserable to clean, easy to stain, heavy, heavier adapter, equals a heavy un-sprung wheel weight, and some bounce even when balanced properly. You need to wear gloves while cleaning to keep from cutting yourself on the 36 sharp spokes. The taper lock can tear the aluminum wheel if the plating should abrade when locking them on. If that happens they are tough to remove, make that almost impossible to do by the side of the road. Although mine are K-H I’m redoing a set of rally to run on trips and use the K/O for show.

Good luck

 

[firstgear]

bolt on....'64

 

[Red Vette]

Looking at your avatar reminded me of my 1966 427/390 maroon convertible, 4 speed black interior with removable hard top and side exhausts. Wish I never got rid of it - that was a very big mistake. To answer your question, I had the original knock off wheels along with a set of steel wheels and hub caps that I changed for winter driving with snow tires. I had no problem with mounting them, balancing them, or removing them from the car. I used the lead hammer (still have it somewhere in the garage) to tighten or remove the spinners. I was always concerned that I might hit the side of the car when swinging the hammer, but I never did. The previous post is correct, they are extremely difficult to clean, and to keep clean, and you really should use stick on weights behind the wheel for appearance sake. All that said and done, I really liked them. The adapters fit over the lug nut bolts and I had no problems with the wheels at all. I did add a light oil on the spinner threads to keep them lubricated so they would not seize. Of course, when I first got them, I was checking the spinner to make

 

[Red Vette]

To continue my response, at first I checked the spinners each week to make sure they were tight - they always were. So, whatever your choice, enjoy them. I did. And, I wish I had never gotten rid of the 66. I loved that car! It was perfect.
Barrett

 

[VETTE1966]

REPLY TO KNOCK-OFFS

I have had repro knock-offs on my 1966 small block roadster for 8 years. They look great. As long as you're careful, you should be OK using them. What everyone says about cleaning them, and keeping them that way, is true--tough job--but worth it.

I would suggest you also look at other threads and literature out there on taking care of them. One of the corvette mags about a year ago--I think it was Corvette Enthusiast--had a great article on "how-to" do this right. I think Corvette America also puts out info on this and it has been available via this forum before. (Very good , detailed articles). And some opinions vary. For example, some use an oil on the threads to prevent seizing---others say NEVER do that as it can cause them to loosen. I prefer no oil and not risk it.

As someone else noted, be careful swinging that lead hammer so as not to hit a fender. but I have taken my wheels off and on several times without an issue--most recently when I replaced all four tires with red-line radials. I also drive highway speeds here in Dallas with no issues of loosening either.

Be careful, follow the "care and handling steps" and enjoy!!!

 

[JohnZ]

I'd recommend the direct-bolt version - nobody can tell the difference by looking at them, and there are no issues/variables relative to retention/safety to be concerned about.

 

[delorenzos]

Thanks everyone. I think I will decide to go with a direct bolt on since they aren't originals. Besides in 63 to original ones had problems loosing air. I currently, have the steel wheels with original hubcaps.
Has anyone ever used S100? I used to use it on my harley engine and rims it was great stuff, spray it on and jet it off with a hose. I wonder how it will work on the knock offs.

 

[Kid_Again]

allentown?


i'm just up rt 31 and have a set of '65 US-made Kelsy Hayes repop ko's sitting in my garage...they have bias ply gold lines (i think)

let me know it you're interested

...i can install them for you and ensure you won't have a problem....lead hammers are just for judging, i use an old piece of tire and whack the crap out of them with a mallet...coat the threads with antisieze grease and use roll pins so that you can actually get them out when you need to......install them initially, put 10 or so miles on the car, recheck and adjust if necessary and you're good to go