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lazy headlamps



I'm sure that I am probably repeating a similar previous question, but here goes.....when I turn on the headlights, the right comes up slowly and then the left, even slower. When I turn them off, they stay up. I've checked the actuators for seal leaks and the hoses(visual inspection)....all seem to be ok. Any suggestions. I have to go underneath and manually pull on the springs to bring them down. Thanks, Hoss:confused
I would suspect the actuator seals first, there are inner and outer seals on each, that's usually the problem people have. It's kind of a pain to take the cans out and check them but the seals are only $10 each. I had the same problem, they looked fine on the outside but the inners were shot, replaced all 4 seals and now the light just pop right up. If the seals are good, and your hoses are good you might have a vacuum problem, maybe the canister.

Here's an older thread where Bud and a few others give some more vac pointers. Scott is right though, the seals are a cheap place to start.

Off topic, how's your Vette holdng up since the repairs. It seems I remember there being a couple front end problems after it was done or maybe I'm thinking of someone else. Regardless, I can't wait to see it at Burger King once spring comes around.
If you change the seals yourself,be extra careful removung tne hyem joints from the ends of the actuator rods as they get corroded and can twist off.
Thanks guys for the input....I have new actuator seals, so i'll start there.....Hey 71 Shark, the vette is running good now after the rear-end collision....the rear differiential and trailing arms got a little screwed up, but got that taken care of....see you at Burger King in the spring. Hoss:beer
Actuator seals did the trick....at least they go up and down now, first the left and then the right. Is that common for the these old ladies?
left then right, that is the nature of my lady also. But Ive heard rumors to the effect ,that Ideally have them "pop" open simultaneously. I not sure how they acted new from the factory? Maybe someone does and will chime in regarding this interesting question.
Mine come up and go down okay but before I put the dash back together completely I thought I should take a look at any potential problems.

I have 12 pounds of vacuum on the line coming from the engine compartment and into the light switch and 11 - 12 pounds on the line from the light switch into the under dash override switch.

Any idea of what the vaccum reading should be?


You might want to measure the vacuum at the tree on the intake manifold just to see how much difference there is (if any) from where you are taking your readings. There are many variables, including the accuracy of your gauge, but 12" of vacuum at idle sounds about right.
I went ahead and put it back together. This seemed ok to me as well. I returned the borrowed vacuum gauge and will check this when I buy my own. I suspect that it is the actuators but as long as they are working, even lazily, I have other fish to fry.

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