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LCD Display

greenstingray

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 19, 2000
Messages
68
Location
N.J
Corvette
1985 z51 coupe, 1969 green convertible
1985 Corvette. Just replaced the blubs in my dash. Dash still will not lite up, blinkers lit, as well as high beam. Everything works on the dash except the lites. Does anyone have an idea whats wrong?
 
Dirty or loose contact somewhere. If everything else on the display is functioning properly as you say, then it must be plugged in alright. Did you have the digital cluster out of the dash? If so, them maybe just one of the contacts didn't make a connection when you re-installed it. ;)

Oh, and when you inserted the new bulbs, you did keep your hands from touching the bulb right? The oils in your skin will definitely shorten the lifespan of the bulbs (sometimes immediately!).

Good Luck.
 
Thanks for your quick response. Went back to car, took the bezel off push the cluster in, and retighten the bolts. Guess what LCD lights up now. Again thank you.
 
dash cluster

Just wanted to know if you solved your problem .I am experiencing the exact same symptoms.Dash does not light up but turn signal and high beam lights are on.Please let me know how you fixed it.
thanks, Thomas:confused
 
When I pick up the car the LCD was going out, the car was not used in two years. After driving the car the LCD started ligthing up but there were dark spots. I went to pep-boys and pick up 4 blubs there about 9.00 each (#882). I took the cluster out removed the back, then removed one circuit board. Under that you can see the blubs. I replaced them all, but this time when I restalled the cluster, nothing lit up(two blinkers lit, and high beam). All I did was remove the bezel, and I pushed the cluster back, and unit lit up. I then just tighten all of four bolts that hold the cluster in. Someone repsoned to post and mention that it could be a bad contact. The back of the cluster is metal, and it is held in with four bolts. I am thinking that you must have good contact of the metal backing and bolts. It proably grounds the unit.
 
If u want to learn more about the dash we have some pics of it taken apart on our website as well as links to experts
 
greenstingray said:
I took the cluster out removed the back, then removed one circuit board. Under that you can see the blubs.

It is possible to replace the bulbs from the front without having to remove the entire digital display, you don't have to use the plastic holder that comes with the bulbs. ;)

Ken
 
Thank you everyone for your help!
 
Yeah I had this gauge panel out to BOY did I look at 1985 Technology GM used a twin plastic push in system for their wire harnesses to keep them from coming out of the plug I just reset wires in the plug and picked up some new plastic push ins and replaced the Halogen blubs (ouch!! 12$ Cnd each!) but I fixed it
but wasnt impressed with the Technology LOL
 
Whoops sorry Ken Yeah I replaced mine under GM instruction

Remove Cosmetic Gauge panel
you will see 4 tin plates shaped like 3/4 inch circles remove them
then with some needle nose pliers pull out the bulb (trust me they do come out in the end LOL)
then with the new one keeping in mind the Halogen thing DO NOT TOUCH THEM!! at least with your bare hand I used the bag they came in and the pliers then like a surgeon push the new bulbs in watching out for the 2 wire ends on the bulb itself then done deal! =)
 
I am having the same problem with my dash, turn signal lights and high beam indicator on everything else is dim, Has anyone come up with a fix for this problem?

Thanks
 
When the turn signal lights and high beam indicator comes on it is a ground problem. There are several things that can cause this and several things that can fix this.

Depending on your level of experience. (It is my personal opinion that anyone can fix) Try the following. 1. starting easy, getting more difficult as we go down.

1. Find ambiant temp switch (See website located below for directions) it is under dash and does not require removal of LCD console. Ground this. (Did not work for me, may for you!)

2. Remove dash cluster (Again see website on instructions of more detail) Take apart Console. Where the two pieces go together there is a set of pins that connect top and bottom. Last pin may have corrosion and it is the ground. Clean and replace.

3. And suggestion.... Take apart the digital console. Clean the pins and re-soder the connections that look like cold soders. (These have small cracks and can be discolored) Spend about $15 at Radio shack for Soder Iron and soder. I sodered about 40 different connections on mine. However I am almost positive the one that was bad was the soders connecting the pins to the board. (Look here first)

Now my dash looks like new! Bright, works perfectly and it is GREAT! I know my instructions are a bit generic and have relied on the website a bit. Any questions I will be glad to give more details..

Here is the website

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/1999/dec99/dash/dashp1.asp

Oh yea while I am on the topic. There are a couple of things that can be bad that I have not covered. My Dad's 85 had a dash that flickered in and out. The Blinker and Bright indicators did NOT come on when this was out. I sent this dash in for him to a guy selling service online. He did a great job fixing. However knowing what I know now (and taking his apart after we got it back) His power supply was out. It is about a $50 board that can easily be replaced. They also replaced the bulbs. Bottom line is he spent about $250 for less than $100 parts and 30 min of labor. So It is my opinion that anyone can do this. Patience and a little parts can fix.

Be also aware that you can replace LCD's yourself. Usually the problem is sunfade. IE when the LCDs are off you can still see clearly where they would light up. You can fix this yourself. However these LCDs can be around $80-$100 each.
 
I had trouble with display going dark with the turn signals on. Resoldering the pins, even though they looked fine, fixed the problem.
 
Thanks for the information I will give it a try and let you know how I made out.
 
Thanks for the information I will give it a try and let you know how I made out.
I have also repaired my digital display by soldering the connections, but go one step further, by a can of elctrical contact cleaner at PEP boys or Radio shack and spray it into the contacts of the the cables you have removed.
Does a world of good!
Tom
 
Whoops sorry Ken Yeah I replaced mine under GM instruction

Remove Cosmetic Gauge panel
you will see 4 tin plates shaped like 3/4 inch circles remove them
then with some needle nose pliers pull out the bulb (trust me they do come out in the end LOL)
then with the new one keeping in mind the Halogen thing DO NOT TOUCH THEM!! at least with your bare hand I used the bag they came in and the pliers then like a surgeon push the new bulbs in watching out for the 2 wire ends on the bulb itself then done deal! =)

I have found that shrink tubing works very well for both removing and replacing the bulbs. Just get a size that's close to the diameter of the bulb, slip it on and just barely heat it enough to grab the old bulb. Pull it straight out. The same piece of tube can be used on the other bulbs.

When inserting the new bulbs, do the same thing only don't heat the tube at all. It's stiff enough to push the bulb into the socket and it also keeps the bulb clean as a whistle - noi oil.
 
Thanks for your quick response. Went back to car, took the bezel off push the cluster in, and retighten the bolts. Guess what LCD lights up now. Again thank you.

Hopefully what you have done will remedy the situation, but myself, Sirat, and few others have seen the "cold" and contaminated solder on the display
PCB's and had to resort to touch-up solder to remedy the problem.
When you pushed the bezel, you might have flexed the PCB ans made a connection, but vibration & heat will eventually cause it to "open" & lights out. Dont be dismayed, it is a nice Saturday on-the-kitchen-table project.
Tom
 
3. And suggestion.... Take apart the digital console. Clean the pins and re-soder the connections that look like cold soders. (These have small cracks and can be discolored) Spend about $15 at Radio shack for Soder Iron and soder. I sodered about 40 different connections on mine. However I am almost positive the one that was bad was the soders connecting the pins to the board. (Look here first)

Be also aware that you can replace LCD's yourself. Usually the problem is sunfade. IE when the LCDs are off you can still see clearly where they would light up. You can fix this yourself. However these LCDs can be around $80-$100 each.

I have the same problem and found that one of the pins has a weak solder joint. To be repaired in the next day or so.

The speedo LCD is broken and I have only the bar graph indicating speed. Where can you buy the LCD's? If I could replace this I would not need to send the whole unit out for repairs.
 
I do know you can buy on ebay...Not sure of quality or such...
 

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