Lessons learned from 02 Swap?

[UB2 SLOW]

Anyone have any tips, tricks or lessons learned from a 02 sensor swap? I am changing mine this weekend and wanted to know how you did yours or any problems that I should look for?

 

[69MyWay]

The biggest problem is jacking the car high enough to get under it!

Make sure an put a dab of antiseize on the new threads if not already on the replacement sensors.

 

[JonM]

If it seems stuck...warm it up by starting or with a torch

 

[jmccloud]

O2 sensor replacement

They likely won't come out unless very hot.
A 6 point socket or wrench will likely be necessary (12 point may skip)
A 6 point air hammer socket with a slot milled into the 1/2" drive opening (for the wire) and a breaker bar makes things easier. Or, put BIG pipe wrench on the socket(the rachet drive likely won't fit with the exhaust connected anyway).
I've been told (but can not confirm by experience) that it's just as easy to drop the whole exhaust from the headers back (not the headers) then work on the O2 sensors on the floor with a torch and breaker bar. Have new header-to-exhaust pipe flange hardware handy, it's cheap compared to the price of the O2 sensors.
69MyWay is absolutely correct, floor clearance is the biggest pain. Know where you can use a lift?
Good luck and hope the new ones do what you want.
PS: Every time I've had a bad O2 sensor, there was an engine error code. Got one?

 

[UB2 SLOW]

Thanks for the tips everyone.

69myway, I have a couple of ramps that I use when I get under the car. I have to take the front air dam off to get the car up the ramps, the car is lowered an inch so it drags. They usually allow me to get high enough to work underneath. If that is not enough room, I have a friend who has a lift, but he has a car on it right now.

jmccloud, I have a code for banks 1 and 2, sensor 1. I figured what the hell, I might as well replace all of them at once. I dont have a torch or slot milled 1/2 socket. I will try to get the socket before this weekend. I will also try to change it with the engine hot.

Thanks for the tips. If anyone else thinks of anything else, please add it.

 

[chaos on wheels]

They make a special socket for the o2 sensor.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36669
You should also be able to get one at most auto parts stores.

 

[CKA_Racing]

I have replaced/swapped mine about four times already due to throwing codes. Try to get them out with the engine cooled down enough so that you won't burn yourself on the pipes or starter.
I had to remove my starter to get that side out. Driver side is easier. I used an O2 sensor socket. Cost me $11 at autozone.
If you purchase oem sensors, they come coated with an antiseize compound. You really can't see the coating but it's there. The coating contains microscopic size glass beads to prevent the sensor from seizing. Not sure if Bosch sensors come with the coating. The rear most sensors only thru codes if the cat converter is clogged or completely blown out. Bank 1 is the drivers side, bank 2 is the passenger side. Sensor 1 is the front most sensor on Bank 1. I had lots of issues with sensors going bad. Seems like a mix of problems was causing it. Bad coil, bad opti, then the cats started over heating due to the rich/lean conditons so they blew out. Also had a slight vacuum leak which was causing it to possibly run rich or lean. Basically too much fuel be added.

If you only have two ramps and a stock jack, try this technique.
Jack one side up and slide the ramp under the front tire. Then jack the other side adn slide the ramp under the front tire. Make sure you put it in gear, place blocks under the back wheels and engage the emergency brakes.

 

[rrubel]

Places like AutoZone will "loan" you the proper socket set. You put down a deposit and get it back when you return the thing. The kit they have has three different sockets, all with the slot in the side for the wire. Two are offset for tight-clearance areas.

Bosch sensors do come with the coating; just replaced the one on my Outback with their generic model.

[RICHR]

 

[sumoboy]

I have replaced/swapped mine about four times already due to throwing codes. Try to get them out with the engine cooled down enough so that you won't burn yourself on the pipes or starter.
I had to remove my starter to get that side out. Driver side is easier. I used an O2 sensor socket. Cost me $11 at autozone.
If you purchase oem sensors, they come coated with an antiseize compound. You really can't see the coating but it's there. The coating contains microscopic size glass beads to prevent the sensor from seizing. Not sure if Bosch sensors come with the coating. The rear most sensors only thru codes if the cat converter is clogged or completely blown out. Bank 1 is the drivers side, bank 2 is the passenger side. Sensor 1 is the front most sensor on Bank 1. I had lots of issues with sensors going bad. Seems like a mix of problems was causing it. Bad coil, bad opti, then the cats started over heating due to the rich/lean conditons so they blew out. Also had a slight vacuum leak which was causing it to possibly run rich or lean. Basically too much fuel be added.

If you only have two ramps and a stock jack, try this technique.
Jack one side up and slide the ramp under the front tire. Then jack the other side adn slide the ramp under the front tire. Make sure you put it in gear, place blocks under the back wheels and engage the emergency brakes.

About jacking and placing the ramps, I heard that rhino ramps will clear the C4 if driven slowly. I have a set at work but my vette is put away for the winter. I never tried it yet but will when snow clears and weather is nice.

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

I've been told (but can not confirm by experience) that it's just as easy to drop the whole exhaust from the headers back (not the headers) then work on the O2 sensors on the floor

Yes. It is much easier to drop the exhaust.

If you do it with the exhaust in place wear gloves!!! I hate busted knuckles.

Do not over tighten the new one, it will need to come off one day. One of the kids working for us tightened the O2´s on his BMW M3 so tight that he damaged the new ones. He had to have them cutoff and new stainless mounting nuts welded into the pipes. Cost him about $500 to repair his maintenance.
:duh

 

[rrubel]

About jacking and placing the ramps, I heard that rhino ramps will clear the C4 if driven slowly. I have a set at work but my vette is put away for the winter. I never tried it yet but will when snow clears and weather is nice.

Southpaw's newer C4 clears my Rhino Ramps with no problem, but my older (86) one needs 1x4's in front of the ramps to give a little extra clearance. If you can find a set of the OLDER Rhino Ramps, they're actually two levels with a flat spot between them and there's no clearance problem at all.

[RICHR]

 

[UB2 SLOW]

Wow, thanks for all the tips. I have the Rhino ramps, but my car is lowered an inch so it does not clear it. Thats why I take the front air dam off the front. I will go to Autozone and see about getting one of there sockets. I think I will also drop the exhaust. It sounds like that would be the easiest way. I hope I dont have to remove the starter.

 

[CKA_Racing]

Got some news for you guys stating just drop the exhaust. If your system is still stock, it's not that easy. You do realize there are brackets connected to the cat converters? The converters need to be dropped.
These brackets go way up into the transmission tunnel. I can tell you from experience, the top two bolts are a bear to get out. Even mechanics at dealerships have either the right tools or actually make there own specially made tool to get to those bolts. I had no problems with them when i did my clutch. But that's because the tranny was on a down angle. A long extension and swivel won't work for the most part. The rest of the system is not that bad to get off. But those bolts will have you cursing up a storm. There is no reason why you should not be able to get the sensors out without taking the exhaust off. But if you decide on it, i recommend you start at the brackets that hold the converters in place. That way you can get your cursing out of the way up front. Being on ramps does nto help any either when dealing with these bolts.

This is my experience with my LT4. If you can do it easily, then your a better man than I adn I salute you.

 

[UB2 SLOW]

Thanks CKA, I plan on putting it on the ramps Sat just to look at what I need. Then I will make the decission to either do it on Sun or make other arrangements.

 

[robert kirk]

the driver side is easy to get to. i droped the starter on the pass side, job took about an hour total. unclip the sensor and cut the wire off with some dykes. use a good 6 point socket and you shouldn't have a problem. i used a 6 point boxedend wrench to reinstall worked great. cheers robert

 

[69MyWay]

It is funny you brought this up because my car blew the sensor recently as well. I just changed it a week or so ago. Nothing but a pair of ramps with some blocks of wood to get it started...then up in the air.

I have a three wire conversion on my 90, and the sensor is in the header collector tight against the transmission side of things. I used an open end 7/8" wrench and changed it in just a few minutes.

 

[vigman]

Hmmmmmm

On my 88...

I bought the "trick" socket.. but it just felt to loose. I used a wrench, after 1 GOOD whack the sensor came right out.


Vig~

 

[UB2 SLOW]

I did not get a chance to swap them this weekend. I had to work on Sat. I put it up on the ramps on Sunday. It looks like I might be able to squeeze them out without too much trouble. But of course looks can be decieving. I will try for this upcoming weekend. Once again, thanks for the tips.

 

[LT4hitsthespot]

I had a regular set of ramps I use on my C3 but were too steep for the C4. While I was in Walmart one day I noticed they sold ramps with extensions and also sold the extensions seperately. The extensions weren't made for my ramps specifically but I decided to give them a shot. They gave me just the right amount of clearance that I needed. They were only about $11.00 and fold up out of the way on a shelf when not in use.

Just don't do what I did. Was so worried about the ramps being lined up just right and even I forgot to compensate for where the front bumper would be once on the ramps and almost put a big scratch on it from something that was left sitting in front of the car.