Lowering my C5

[BoDuke]

Hey gang.

I've went thru every thread on the site over the past couple of weeks and have spent HOURS reading and researching the how to. and the pro's and con's of lowering the C5. I have a couple questions for those of you that have done it.

1. Looking at the front bolts, each sides extrudes up thru the frame about 1 1/2". The front height (ground to center of fender well measuring thru the center of the tire) is right at 27 1/2". When I try to turn the bolts (either side), they aren't having any part of it. They are TIGHT...as in tight like they are going to snap. The one actually started to round the end off, so I decided I better get some opinions. The bolts seem to be turned as far as they can (according to the pictures and threads I've read) but the body height is stock height. Any ideas??

2. Considering getting a 'body lowering kit'...$40-$70. Seems like a lot for some grade 8 bolts and a couple washers. Several threads have recommended the kit from WCC. I see the front bolts from WCC are a bit thicker than those from Corvette Central (and also $30 higher). Any other differences between the 2 kits I should be aware of?

Right now my C5 is level all the way around at 27 1/2". I'd like to drop it a bit further, but don't want to mess anything up in the process. Also, I'm NOT spending $1800 for new coil overs, not gonna happen.

Links to the 2 kits....

Corvette Central... http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...3UP04ZHGU63235110550F~Z5Z5Z5YES~Z5Z5Z50000050

WCC kit... Corvette Lowering Package - Front and Rear : 1997-2004 C5 & C5 Z06

 

[BoDuke]

Really? No one??

 

[Toms007]

I haven't answered, because I haven't lowered my Vette. I like the looks of the Vette lowered but I scrape every time i enter or exit my drive the way it is. Lowering it would just make it that much worse. Also, here is a exert from a thread about a couple of members cross country drive in a lowered Vette......and it was lowered using coil-overs.

Quick: Guy and I never reset the gas mileage calculator the entire trip. In the 3700+ miles Quick averaged slightly under 29mpg!!! Amazing. The noise from the LPE mods were somewhat loud thru the gears but once in cruise mode from 60-85 she was a quiet a Caddie. However...... and this is a Nut opinion although I think I can speak for Guy here; lowering these cars is a HUGE mistake. My 2002 Vert, even switched to the Sport mode is a wonderful ride and extremely comfortable. Quick's ride was harsh at best and bone jarring every time we hit even the slightest bump in the road, entering and exiting any gas station, burger joint, hotel, ...etc; as she constantly bottomed out on the rear tires. The only fear Guy and I had short of something popping out from the side of the road at 85mph and tearing the lower nose panels off, was the thought of a flat tire (Remo replaced the run-flat tires) on some stretch of I-BF Nowhere, and being stranded for God knows how long until Billy-Bob came along and said; "we ain't got no tires like them back in Gooberville". One thing she did do was run pretty hot coming thru the hills on SR89A in AZ. Between the altiture (3500-7000ft), temps in the 90's and slower speeds there just was not enough air running thru the radiator to keep her cool. Once coming down the hills she was fine.

So with that information, I've pretty much decided that, although lowering looks cool, it would just leave me with an undesirable ride.

 

[Toms007]

Hopefully someone will come by here soon and give you a little help. To get an idea of what she will look like when you get it done. check out this thread. The owner of the car commented on by Nut started this thread.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...ion/117795-they-just-look-better-lowered.html

 

[6 Shooter]

Lowerd mine on stock bolts a few years back, liquid wrench was my friend...

​

 

[Hib Halverson]

There are two types of "lowering" of the C5/C6 chassis.

The first, is lowering such that the car looks better, but the suspension still has adequate travel such that the car is comfortable to drive. This is what "6 shooter" has done

The second, is lowering such that the car looks slammed, but the suspension has insufficient travel such that the car rides harshly.

Let's address the first. You said:

1. Looking at the front bolts, each sides extrudes up thru the frame about 1 1/2". The front height (ground to center of fender well measuring thru the center of the tire) is right at 27 1/2". When I try to turn the bolts (either side), they aren't having any part of it. They are TIGHT...as in tight like they are going to snap.

In the front, but bolts you adjust (the spring bolts) do not go through the frame. They are right near the end of the leaf spring. You unload the spring then turn the spring bolt until there is a 2-mm gap between the bottom of the spring and the top of the bolt's rubber pad.

In the rear, again, the bolts are at the ends of the spring. Unload the spring then adjust rear bolts so a min. of 2-mm of thread protrudes through the upper spring nut.

If you want to lower the car more than that, ie: the second type of lowering, you need an aftermarket spring bolt kit. Consult the kit's manufacturer for adjustment instructions.

 

[Huskerman]

Hey Bo....how's it going? The very best way to lower is the coil over shocks that PFADT and others make. Very pricy but I hear you do get ride quality and handling. My question on coil overs is if they are so good why hasn't GM adopted them for production.....the C7 doesn't have them......just saying....

The stock bolt thing is the easiest and will give you a nice look and in my opinion that is the way you should go to see if you like it or not. You can always undo that if you want. I was going to try that on my C5 but in the end just didn't want it any lower to get in and out of the places I go. My GS in stock trim is very low and I am always dragging going in and out of driveways........but it looks badass so I'm cool with it.....


Sorry I missed this thread earlier......

 

[BoDuke]

Toms01.... Thanks for that extra article by Nut. I did indeed read the thread by Remo. There's some really good opinions and pointers in there!

6shooter.... Awesome looking car indeed! That's the look I'd like to have. I did get some PB Blaster yesterday. I think that will help tremendously. Also when I did the front, I had the entire front lifted, then a block under the part (I have no clue what its called) that the front bolt goes up thru so I could get the shock bolts out. I'm thinking there was tension on the bolts. I guess I dont know how to 'unload' the pressure off those. With the rear off the ground, I just turned the bolts and had no issues.

Hib.... You are correct, I did say 'thru the frame'. I'm not much of a mechanic, so I'm honestly not sure the exact name of all the parts involved. I mainly followed the instruction/direction from the frankhunt.com link. It was very detailed and has some good pic's. I also referred to the CCtech site. I'm trying to learn, just so much information out there to sort through!

Huskerman.... Good to hear from ya man! And yes, your GS is VERY badass! I still look at those pic's I have of it from that day I brought my C5 home last year. I never appreciated the C6 til I saw yours! You're a bad influence lol!

Thanks for everyones replies this morning. Greatly appreciated

 

[Hib Halverson]

(snip)

Hib.... You are correct, I did say 'thru the frame'. I'm not much of a mechanic, so I'm honestly not sure the exact name of all the parts involved. I mainly followed the instruction/direction from the frankhunt.com link. It was very detailed and has some good pic's. I also referred to the CCtech site. I'm trying to learn, just so much information out there to sort through!

(snip)

If you're intent is to become adept at DIY service of Corvettes, may I suggest the Factory Service Manual. CAC sponsor, Zip Products sells them.

Good luck!

 

[BoDuke]

Hey everyone!!

Here is a Youtube video link of my C5. Today, I was able to get the load off the front springs (thanks for the tip Hib ), wd40'd the bolts, and tightened them up. After a 4 mile test run, the front is at 26 1/2", the rear is still at 27 1/2" (with only 2 threads showing on the rear bolts). I will give it 150 miles or so, then go for the alignment, unless I can get another 1/2-3/4" of an inch lower. I think I can use some 8" grade 8 bolts for the back at Bomgaars, TSC, Orschelns, etc...\

I also got my ALTEC splash guards put on today. LOVE them! I decided NOT to paint them black. I think with the egg shell finish, it kinda ties in with the top. They definitely dont look out of place, of course opinions will vary on that.

I cleaned, sanded, cleaned again, and painted the calipers and rotors a couple weeks ago. They turned out really nice!

Thanks for everyones input on all my projects. I used Frankhunt.com for the lowering instructions, Froggy's video on how to jack the car up and put it on jack stands (huh, I never thought that was possible), and iammoon.com instructions on how to remove the calipers, does, and dont's.

Anyone else let the jack down and it gets stuck under the car cause its to low? :ugh...The perils of looking

Thanks again CAC!!

A few upgrades on my C5 - YouTube

 

[Toms007]

Bo, it looks real good there. It will probably settle a little more yet. I like the splash guards......they look like mine except for the color, and I have one that is cracked already. Victim of road junk on our California trip. I remember just when it happened too. The blackout looks good on your black car.

 

[LOWVETT]

The previous owner of my '02 had lowered the car. The stance is what sold me on buying the car. After 5 years of feeling every road ripple and getting hung up on speed bumps, I back out of my driveway and one of the rear bolts snapped. I was forced to consider making some adjustments. I discovered that the front bolts had been removed so that the spring rested directly on the control arm (no cushion at all). The stock rear bolts were turned with only 2 or 3 threads showing and both upper and lower bushings had 2 of 3 ribs cut off.

New front bolt

New heavy duty bolt on left and original modified (and broken) bolt on right

After a ton of research, I decided to get the WCC kit. I installed the front bolts and turned them as far as they would go. Installed the rear bolts and adjusted the stance. The front wheel well measures 26.5" and the rear 27". I now have a smoother ride with a nice low stance. For less than $100 I now have a safer ride with strong suspension components.

 

[Toms007]

When that bolt broke, did it give you a little startle? Back when I had my 64, I had one of those bolts break on me when I was making a U-turn. Scared the sh........stuffing out of me. :L

 

[froggy47]

You should always put a jack under the front spring (pad it, I use a wood block) and take some pressure off the bolt b4 you try turning it, also use some penetrating oil. The pads on the bolts need to move on the lower control arms. I use the whitish T1 pads, there are others, delrin etc. Put some grease under the pad so it can move. I had squeaks there until I greased it. Use the grease that claims to "not attract dirt". Some polish the control arm where the pad slides.

On the rears I can usually turn those without taking pressure off. Again oil the threads.

Really nobody needs any kits unless you are slamming the car for looks, it will handle like chit if you go that far, unless you correct suspension geometry with drop spindles etc. And will scrape even more than lowering on stock bolts. If you can imagine that.

 

[Huskerman]

Hey Aaron the car is loooking good mon! Very nice! I'm going to get me some of that Opti-bond tire gel, that looks good on your tires. If you are going into a Husker game this fall let me know and we can caravan in.....