LT1/4 Starters - what's the big deal?

[dmd]

The starter on my '96 LT4 has stopped starting, and I was looking to see what the cross-reference would be on it before I hit the junkyard. To my surprise, NOTHING crosses, not even F-bodies. Does anyone know what it is about this starter that it couldn't be used in any other car?

 

[vetteoz]

T NOTHING crosses, not even F-bodies. Does anyone know what it is about this starter that it couldn't be used in any other car?

Probably because it is a quality Japanese made Denso unit so only used on Vettes vs Delco unit used on other LT1's

New OEM style $100
NEW CHEVY CORVETTE STARTER 92 1993 1994 1995 1996 5.7L: eBay Motors (item 130417073826 end time Sep-01-10 19:39:06 PDT)

Rebuilt $75
CHEVY CORVETTE STARTER 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 5.7L: eBay Motors (item 130410404288 end time Aug-13-10 14:57:24 PDT)

 

[dmd]

When I needed a push down a hill in a parking lot to kickstart it, I got a jab about it being unreliable because it was American-made. Ironic, then, that the failed part is "quality Japanese."

 

[LT4man]

In over 114,000 original owner miles on my LT4, I have only rebuilt the solenoid for the starter ONCE!

And that was done for less than $30.00!

Search on here about Nippondenso starters and you should find a couple of threads of mine.

Good Luck!

SAVE the WAVE!

 

[dmd]

I don't think it's a solenoid problem with this one. It's making an audible "click", which says to me that the solenoid is firing the bendix but the motor isn't engaging. I found a replacement in Oregon about 300 miles from here, I'll just park on a hill in the meantime until it gets here.

 

[vetteoz]

It's making an audible "click",

Generally indicates main power contacts in solenoid are worn out
Can test actual motor operation by applying 12V direct to the terminal on motor body bypassing solenoid.
If motor spins then problem is with solenoid
Solenoid rebuild kits $25

 

[LannyL81]

Rebuild kits from where and what is the part number? Be a really good thing to have on hand.

 

[dmd]

Good to know, I'll probably be rebuilding this one to keep it as a spare.

 

[GRAND SPORT #12]

More than likely its the contacts.. real common on toyota's the copper contacts just wear out to the point that they dont make contact thats why the single click. if you have to get it started try rapid movement on and off with the key most of the time it catches. easy fix hardest part is removing starter. remove the starter then take out 3 bolts on solenoid cover then on each side of starter two bolts hold the contacts in place. 14mm and 12 mm... take the two contacts out and take them to any toyota dealer go to parts and show the two style contacts you have. one will allway be straight with a 90 degree bend the other one is the one you have to match up it can be angled left or right. those parts are allways in stock and is the quickest way to obtain them they go for i think 22 dollars each .

 

[vetteoz]

More than likely its the contacts.. the copper contacts just wear out to the point that they dont make contact thats why the single click. .

At least with the old style Delco starters ,you could reverse the copper washer and rotate the contact studs 180 degrees to get another 100K use out of starter

 

[LT4man]

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/thread86281.html

Gives you all the information you need to know!

My starter is still working flawlessly since doing this easy repair. And I do mean: EASY!

With over forty (40) years experience in the mechanical auto & truck repair industry, I believe I have said "EASY" maybe twice before!

SAVE the WAVE!

 

[G Winter]

At least with the old style Delco starters ,you could reverse the copper washer and rotate the contact studs 180 degrees to get another 100K use out of starter

OK now your dated.:L I didn't know that anyone else on the planet did that little trick. I did that with many a starter.

Glenn

 

[dmd]

Some interesting ideas from everyone here. I got under the car today and my problem actually turned out to be a remnant of my winter clutch job. The main power wire to the starter had come loose and just needed to be tightened back down. So I could've fixed it several days and numerous push-starts down inclined parking lot hills ago. Plus I now have a jazzy new Denso starter I don't need. Hopefully someday I will, because I don't feel like the two hour drive to return it.

 

[LT4man]

I am happy to see you were able to repair your problem!

I did want to mention some useful facts.

A properly working starter will draw between 50 and 100 amps of current. Your starter uses more current than any other device in your car.

A bad starter (or loose cable connection) can draw between 150 and 200 amps of current.

A spark at a loose cable connection can ignite oil & crud on an engine block and start a fire which can melt & destroy a Vette.

geekinavette's 84 Vette caught fire and was destroyed. Search on this forum to find his thread.

SAVE the WAVE!

 

[Boeingdriver]

Loose Starter Connections

I am happy to see you were able to repair your problem!

I did want to mention some useful facts.

A properly working starter will draw between 50 and 100 amps of current. Your starter uses more current than any other device in your car.

A bad starter (or loose cable connection) can draw between 150 and 200 amps of current.

A spark at a loose cable connection can ignite oil & crud on an engine block and start a fire which can melt & destroy a Vette.

SAVE the WAVE!

LT4 Man is right about this. 100 to 150 amps is just like arc welding and fire hazard is only one danger. When working on starters, always disconnect the pos. lead at the battery first. And take off any metal jewelery such as a ring or watch. There's no fuse in a starter primary circuit.

 

[Kenny]

When working on starters, always disconnect the pos. lead at the battery first.

No No NOOOOO

disconnect the negative (ground) FIRST
that way when your wrench is on the positive terminal and touches ground you get no spark

 

[93Rubie]

Welding your wrench to the battery is generally bad for both the battery and your wrench. You disconnect the negative first and connect it last.