LT1-Replaceing Clutch-Stay with Dual-mass??

[Randy Eads]

LT1-Replacing Clutch-Stay with Dual-mass??

I need some input.

I gotta 1993 LT1 6-sp and at 52K miles the clutch is slipping when I launch. Its days are number and I know it. It grabs ok with normal or "alittle frisky" driving but slips whilst trying an agressive burn-out.

I bought the car with 40K on it and by observing the clutch pedal wear, it was obvious that the previous owner "rode" the clutch constantly.

OK, with that said, and the situation that I have the service manual, I am confident with my abilities with the clutch replacement .... but I only want to do it once.

So here are my concerns:

The dual-mass flywheel cant be resurfaced as I understand it but how "used" can it be and still be reusable? And can the glaze be busted with a lite sanding or sandblast without harm?

What would be the indications that the factory sealed lubricant on the DM has lost its seal and are there any indications this is going on BEFORE I start teardown?

I know I need a matched set-up clutch and pressure plate to go with the dual-mass but if the dual-mass is bad and replacement is necessary then hows about going with the after market "single mass" with its matching disk and PP .

Single mass vs dual mass: I want my roadster to remain a smooth riding road car and really am not after a really super-tight racing type clutch and I do not want to create MORE vibration (@ tranny) if I go with the single mass .... would this be the case.

In short, I do not want to pay the big bucks for a new dual-mass if not necessary (old one salvagable?) and IF the existing one is shot and replacement is necessary then is going for a single mass a viable alternative.


I would appreciate any info and/or horror stories available.

Thanx

 

[Randy Eads]

... or should I just park it and pick up a c-6? LOL

 

[motorman]

I need some input.

I gotta 1993 LT1 6-sp and at 52K miles the clutch is slipping when I launch. Its days are number and I know it. It grabs ok with normal or "alittle frisky" driving but slips whilst trying an agressive burn-out.

I bought the car with 40K on it and by observing the clutch pedal wear, it was obvious that the previous owner "rode" the clutch constantly.

OK, with that said, and the situation that I have the service manual, I am confident with my abilities with the clutch replacement .... but I only want to do it once.

So here are my concerns:

The dual-mass flywheel cant be resurfaced as I understand it but how "used" can it be and still be reusable? And can the glaze be busted with a lite sanding or sandblast without harm?

What would be the indications that the factory sealed lubricant on the DM has lost its seal and are there any indications this is going on BEFORE I start teardown?

I know I need a matched set-up clutch and pressure plate to go with the dual-mass but if the dual-mass is bad and replacement is necessary then hows about going with the after market "single mass" with its matching disk and PP .

Single mass vs dual mass: I want my roadster to remain a smooth riding road car and really am not after a really super-tight racing type clutch and I do not want to create MORE vibration (@ tranny) if I go with the single mass .... would this be the case.

In short, I do not want to pay the big bucks for a new dual-mass if not necessary (old one salvagable?) and IF the existing one is shot and replacement is necessary then is going for a single mass a viable alternative.


I would appreciate any info and/or horror stories available.

Thanx

if you replace the dual mass on a ZR-1 you will get a trans gear rattle in neutral so i would guess the LT-1 would do the same. GM did not put a dual mass in the C-6 to get rid of the C-5 driveline rattle because the extra weight would cause a .2 of a second increase in 0-60 time.

 

[Randy Eads]

"if you replace the dual mass on a ZR-1 you will get a trans gear rattle in neutral so i would guess the LT-1 would do the same. "

Motorman,

I assume you mean replacing the dual-mass with an after market single?

Got any thoughts on how bad is bad in the case of the condition of the existing flywheel?

 

[Chris Kennedy]

I know this is a VERY subjective question, but for those who have heard "the rattle" when replacing the dual mass with the single mass flywheel, how bad is it?

Thanks,
/s/ Chris Kennedy

 

[trrgod]

There is a duel mass flywheel on ebay right now for under $700.00. The aluminum one will be $500.00 or so and you need a different disc. I've talked to guys with the light FW and there is definate noise issues. Also, with the lighter FW you have less inertia, so it might take a getting used to when starting out from a full stop. I heard one guy complain of that. The light FW will let the engine rev faster but, I suspect, at the loss of some torque. I have an 89 Vette with the dual mass and replaced the clutch many miles ago with no ill effects. There is a test to tell if the dual mass is within tolerance, I can't rember for sure but I believe it is in the service manual. I inspected for burn areas or cracks and then roughed up the surface of the FW. It has worked great for many thousand miles.


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477

 

[Randy Eads]

I'll search my service manual for dual-mass criteria. Maybe I overlooked it before. 1993 is a two volume set.

I have heard that along with the trans noise, pedal vibration can also be expected.

Sticking with the dual-mass is sounding better and better but the question is how bad is bad on the old one.