Welcome to the Corvette Forums at the Corvette Action Center!

Lumbar Inflation Not Working: Pump Diaphragm or Bladder?

JC4

Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
17
Location
Sarasota, Florida
Corvette
Past: 1968 Yellow Coupe Present: 1993 Red Z07
Hi, I performed a search but could not find the answer to this one: On my '93 with sport seats (separate pumps under each seat) both motors run fine but all three bladders for each seat do not inflate at all. I'm trying to figure out what the likely culprit is: the diaphragm or the bladders.

In fact, the passenger side failed just the other day (was working fine before). I was blowing it up (all three sections), when suddently, there was a loud pop from the seat, and the lumbar rapidly deflated. Now, the motor runs, but none of the three sections inflate (just like the driver side). I would think it pretty odd for all sections of the bladder to fail at the same time, so I'm thinking it's the diaphragm in the pump. In other words, of those of you who have experienced bladder failure, is it normally one section only at a time, with the other two still inflating or do all three sections fail together?

Thanks for your help.
John C.
Venice, FL
 
Try this...
I really don't know anything about the lumbar repair...I just remember I read about it here.


Date Published: 2001-06-15

Submitter's Name: Bob Thibodeau

A very common problem with the C4 sport seat is the failure of the pump that inflates the lumbar bladders internal to the back of the seat. The most prevalent failure is not the pump assembly, but simply the diaphragm within the pump sub-assembly. To gain access to the pump, look under the front of the seat and there will be a wire clip that holds the bottom seat cushion in place. Push this clip down and back and then lift the bottom cushion and position it so you can see underneath. Next, follow the air tubes from the lumbar support switch and bleed console (right side bolster) to the pump. Remove the three small bolts that hold the pump to the seat frame. Note, it is easier to remove if you use the seat adjustment on the console to lift the front of the seat to get your hand in. These screws must be removed from the bottom as the nuts visible from the top are set into a hex shaped depression in the plastic. Once the pump is free, disconnect the two power connections (disconnect the battery first) and then disconnect the three tubes from the pump. The pump should now be free to remove from the car and take into a work area where you won't lose all the small parts that you will have during disassembly.
To access the diaphragm, remove the two small Phillips head screws at the pump end of the motor and remove the access plate. Make note of the orientation of the three tube nipples in relation to the pump housing and then slide the pump sub-assembly out of the housing while carefully making sure that the plunger slides off the crankshaft of the motor at the same time. Once the pump sub-assembly is free of the housing, you will quickly find out if the diaphragm is torn as is usually the problem with these pumps. Remove the four Phillips screws that hold the pump sub-assembly halves together and then remove the diaphragm. This is a good time to take the motor back out to the car without the pump sub-assembly, plug in the two connectors, re-connect the battery and ensure that the motor runs. If not, then you will need to replace the entire pump. Disconnect the battery again prior to removal.
There are two ways to fix the diaphragm, by making a replacement using household items and a more expensive way using replacement parts. GM would like you to buy the entire pump assembly at more then $130 rather then fix the diaphragm. However, you can buy the pump subassembly from Jasco Products (original supplier to GM) in Sun Valley, CA for around $33. The second more creative fix, it to use a dish washing glove to make a new diaphragm (make sure you wife isn't looking when you take the glove). Trace the outside diameter of the original diaphragm onto the flat portion of the glove and then cut out the circle (approximately a 19/32 inch radius). Next, remove the screw and the sealing washer just under the screw head from the plunger. You will find the center of the old diaphragm in the recess of the plunger, leave this in place to fill the recess. Next, punch a hole in the center of your new diaphragm with a pin and then push the screw with the sealing washer through the diaphragm and then attach to the plunger. The final assembly order should be: screw, sealing washer, new diaphragm, old diaphragm center piece, sealing washer, plunger. Finally, put the diaphragm into the pump sub-assembly halves. To ensure the correct alignment of the plunger, put a drill bit through the hole in the plunger where it slides onto the crankshaft. The hole should line up with the previously noted position of the tube nipples, i.e., the drill bit should be perpendicular to the tube nipples. (Failure to get this hole in the correct orientation will cause the pump to bind.) Now screw the two halves back together with the four screws previously removed. Put a small dab of grease on the crankshaft (the grease used should be compatible with rubber) and then slide the pump sub-assembly back into the housing while making sure that the plunger slides onto the pin of the crankshaft. Once again, take the pump out to the car and plug in the connectors to make sure the pump operates correctly. Re-install the cover plate and then re-install the pump into the seat by reversing the removal operation.
 
JC4 said:
Hi, I performed a search but could not find the answer to this one: On my '93 with sport seats (separate pumps under each seat) both motors run fine but all three bladders for each seat do not inflate at all. I'm trying to figure out what the likely culprit is: the diaphragm or the bladders.

In fact, the passenger side failed just the other day (was working fine before). I was blowing it up (all three sections), when suddently, there was a loud pop from the seat, and the lumbar rapidly deflated. Now, the motor runs, but none of the three sections inflate (just like the driver side).

I had a similar situation a while back where the motor seemed to make noise, but nothing would move on the driver's side, while the pass. side worked fine. Then one day neither side worked. I took it to a dealer I trust and they inspected the seats and found the "pass over line" disconnected from the seat and simply reconnected it. Only charged $37 for the inspection and fix.

Cheaper than wasting my time trying to figure it out. I lucked out it wasn't more serious. Good luck finding a solution.
 
I would unzip the back of the seat and check to see if the blader broke lose from the back of the seat.
Try and remove the bottom of the seat eather side and clip under front of seat ,see if the main pump on the pass side is operationg by pulling off? I think the Blue or black line.
 

Corvette Forums

Not a member of the Corvette Action Center?  Join now!  It's free!

Help support the Corvette Action Center!

Supporting Vendors

Dealers:

MacMulkin Chevrolet - The Second Largest Corvette Dealer in the Country!

Advertise with the Corvette Action Center!

Double Your Chances!

Our Partners

Back
Top Bottom