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MAF

Take it off the car and start hacking off the screens on either end with snips.
 
CAREFULLY!!

You MUST be EXTREMELY careful when doing this. It is possible to ruin the MAF, do just be VERY gentle during the removal, and especially careful during the snipping process.
 
I can't remember if I used a screw driver and pried out the screens from the sides of the sensor. Good luck.
 
Agent 86 said:
Direct your energy elsewhere. Waste of time in my mind:W

And the risk of ruining the maf makes it even more so.........
 
Although it has been proven that you can get a fractional improvement in air flow by removing the screen, the improvement is completely insignificant as the previous posters indicate.

If you still insist on doing it, how about only removing the outlet screen so that the inlet is still there to protect the delicate wires?

To remove it, you can simply use a small screwdriver and pry around the outside of the base of the screen rim. It will come off as a unit. If you were to cut the individual screen wires you run a big risk of slipping and wasting the MAF.

Good luck,
 
I've been running both sides of mine unscreened and no throwing a MAF code. The whole thought about stuff getting by the screens nd hitting the wires doesn't make sense since there is a filter about a foot from the MAF itself. Descreen em both and do the rest of the free mods and light em up :lou.
 
I remember now how to remove them. You take a knife and put between the edge of the screen rim and the outside of the MAF and then roll the MAF around to wedge the screen off.

Good luck,
 
Has anyone used a Dyno and make runs before and after you remove the screen?
 
Has anyone tested on a dyno before and after removing the screens?
 
MBDiagMan said:
I remember now how to remove them. You take a knife and put between the edge of the screen rim and the outside of the MAF and then roll the MAF around to wedge the screen off.

Good luck,

Does the 96 LT4 have the same MAF?
 
Louis Bartay said:
Does the 96 LT4 have the same MAF?

I believe yours already has them removed from the factory, but I could be wrong, that might be an LS1 MAF, just take yours off and look at it and you will notice the screens.
 
Vettefan87 said:
I believe yours already has them removed from the factory, but I could be wrong, that might be an LS1 MAF, just take yours off and look at it and you will notice the screens.

Thank's I will look at it in the morning. Has anyone run their Vette on a Dyno and did a before and after the screen removable?
 
If you expect to see any change on a dyno from this modification alone, you better not be using an old style dyno with analog gauges. You will need to be using a modern computer monitored dyno that will give you decimal points.

Even then the minor variations from run to run will probably be greater than the measurable difference from this mod.

Good luck,
 
MBDiagMan said:
If you expect to see any change on a dyno from this modification alone, you better not be using an old style dyno with analog gauges. You will need to be using a modern computer monitored dyno that will give you decimal points.

Even then the minor variations from run to run will probably be greater than the measurable difference from this mod.

Good luck,

Thanks, I will just not bother and heep my LT4 stock. I changed to a K&N filter and open air box frame, a MAT relocation kit from the bellows in front of throttle body to air box and a air foil in the front of the throttle body. Did not notice much difference, but the Hyper Tech Power Programmer and a 160 stat Helped as the fans turn on sooner and stay on longer (it gets really Hot in Texas)
 

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