Mobil 1 or Not? New ZZ4 FB

[DR.68]

Hello everyone, been looking and reading for a while, this is my 1st post.
68 convert. Dropped a new ZZ4 Fast Burn in last weekend. Hope to have it running this weekend.
My question is:
Mobil 1 or standard oil?

 

[Tom73]

I use Mobil 1 in everything. But when I got a new truck I kept the dyno oil in it until the first change, then went with Mobil 1.

tom...

 

[mvftw]

Mobill 1 for sure...but wait till it breaks in...

 

[Jack]

DR.68:
Welcome aboard CACC ... lotsa friendly helpful folks here! I agree with the others ... standard (dino) to start with. I'd also change oil & filter after first 6 hrs run time ... refill with dino ... then go w/synthetic at subsequent o&f change.
JACK:gap

 

[patsnitrovette]

as stated above always use standard oil when braking in a motor then switch to synthetic after that.

 

[warren s]

Mobil 1 from the get go!

You do not need to break in the engine with "Dino" oil.

Call any local engine builder or performance re-builder. Its a myth that you should not use a synth. oil on a new motor.

Also ask the service dept. at a GM dealer, or a GM goodwrench re-seller of crate motors.

 

[DR.68]

Thanks for the help

Thanks everyone. Did not get a chance to work on it and get it running over the weekend. Will keep you posted

 

[Daryllawman]

Welcome DR.68 to the Corvette Action Center..... Read some of the forums and maybe even post a few yourself....

 

[Sunday Money]

Not a Myth

Most aftermarket cam manufacturers reccommend only conventional motor oil during the break in period for flat tappet cams. Synthetic is okay for rollers.
Dave

 

[warren s]

Thats not what Crane told me when I did my GTO engine over in 99.

they actually said as long as I use the moly cam lube, and dont mind paying 5 bucks a quart to dump it anyway after a short time.

GM recomends synth oil for crate motor break ins to, they did for mine in my Camaro

 

[offshore]

I am an engine builder and it takes much longer to seat the rings with syn. oil. run the car on start up on reg oil you can use the cheapest stuff you can find. start the engine run @ 2000 rpm for 20 min. (DO NOT IDLE THE ENGINE!) Shut it down drain the oil.Now change the oil & filter to a good grade motor oil drive the car around town a little than up on the highway on the h/way @ 65 mph remove your foot from the gas let car slow to 55. repeat several times over several miles This creates a vacum to help seat the rings and sucks oil up. bring her home and switch to syn.

 

[JRMaroon]

Vettes leave the factory with Mobil 1.

Is this why Z06's have an oil burning problem?

 

[offshore]

Vettes leave the factory with Mobil 1.

Is this why Z06's have an oil burning problem?

I don't know.

 

[patsnitrovette]

i agree with offshore, i build circle track and street motors also and i agree it takes alot longer to seat the rings in with synthetic,yeah look at all the c5 with oil burning problems,mobil 1 from the factory and look how many are back at the dealers with oil consumption trouble.I break all my motors in with regular oil then ill switch over to synthetic if thats what they want.

 

[Sunday Money]

http://www.crower.com/misc/faq.shtml#h

This is what one manufacturer has posted on their website.:s

 

[Evolution1980]

(First, you're going to get my different opinions, so let me add mine to the fray! )

I have a ZZ4 engine also. I broke my engine in on the road for 500 miles at mostly around 2700 to 3000 RPM on regular oil. After that, I changed the filter and filter to Mobil1 fully synth. I was running 10w-30, but I shoulda (and have since switched) to 5w-30 for it.

With newer engines and better manufacturing tolerances, there's not much need to run a thicker oil that 5w-30. (If you do a search, you can find plenty of previous threads on this site devoted to different oils and filters comparos.)

(I believe that if you are breaking the engine in outside of the car, such as just on an engine stand or something, the RPMs and duration is different.)

 

[Chris Kennedy]

I don't know what peoples' experience has been, but I have tried Mobil 1 in several cars and have been disappointed----the oil pressure goes WAY down when the oil warms up, which some people say is to be expected, yet I have had wear problems in every engine I have used it in. Perhaps it's better for newer design engines. Anyhow, I switched to Red Line Synthetic in my '81 4-speed, and the engine kept great pressure and has run fine.

--Chris Kennedy

 

[Evolution1980]

It depends one the engine's internal clearance/tolerances and the type of oil.

Synthetic is naturally a bit thinner, so it's going to flow more freely and get through smaller clearances. Older engines are worn in and the seals aren't as good, so a thicker oil may be necessary. A brand new engine made by today's manfacturing tolerances can take the newer synth oil, and use a thinner version of it to boot! The C5's now ship with Mobil1 fully synth, 5w-30. I use that same oil in my ZZ4. No need to run thicker oil.

As always, there's plenty of conversations that branch off from this, such as heavier oils rob horsepower, but carry away heat better, blah blah blah. There are many educated opinions out there, and just as many claiming it to be fact. You just gather all the info you can and try to make your own educated decisions.

 

[Jack]

FYI circle track ZZ4 specifies 15W-50 Mobil 1

Although I hold firmly to my belief in dino break-in ... please note:

One of our local supertruck teams just took delivery of a GMPP ZZ4 "circle track motor"... this is virtually same as a street ZZ4 but it has a circle track oil pan & is sealed with breakaway bolts. Both right-hand valve cover and left side of oil pan each have a sticker that reads "Use 15W-50 Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil." ... those are stickers from GMPP. BTW ... date of manufacture on this motor is 3-18-03.
JACK:gap

 

[1BAD80]

GM breaks in all the Vette motors on an engine stand then changes the oil to Mobil 1. I prefer Royal Purple Oil, you can tell a difference. A friend of mine done a test in his Rustang cobera 428 at the strip and it helped him by .2 tenths. I change the filter every 3,000 and oil at 10,000. I also use a PF932 filter which is a 2 qt. compared to a PF25 is 1qt, PF35 1 1/2 qt. and it fits above the oil pan by 1" so no problem with ground clearance.