Moly Assembly Lube

[Jack]

I'm FINALLY beginning to truly assemble my 71's small block. I'd ordered a spray can of MOLY OPEN GEAR LUBE GREASE made by Aervoe-Pacific Co, Inc. of Gardnerville, NV. Just shot some all over the cam ... JEEZ ... does this stuff lay down heavy & STICKY! Very dark, opaque gray. I've got some other brand of ML in a squeeze tube ... not nearly so aggressive. Bubba ... can you say "Molybdenum Disulfide" ten times in ten seconds?

I'm planning to use Aervoe spray ML as an assembly lube on cam, lifter faces (lifter bores??), rocker arm balls & tips, rods & mains and timing gear-chain. Also gonna spin-prime the oil pump just before cranking.

I've seen some reference(s) that indicate Moly Lube may clog oil filters & the like.

In the rather typical American manner ... I tend to think "More is better!" However, don't wanna overdo if it's gonna be a problem.

Anyone have thoughts/experiences applying Moly Lube to above parts? ... Same for Moly Lube clogging ... in-general ML thoughts too?
JACK:gap

 

[Bullitt]

I've heard everyone say everything about which is the right way. Some guys put moly lube on the cam but oil on the lobes, some other guys just stick with a heavier weight of oil on everything. Since you'll probably change the oil filter after break-in, I don't think there should be a problem with it getting clogged. Following the cam manufacturers recommendations, is the best way to go. If something goes wrong, blame them! --Bullitt

 

[Hib Halverson]

I've seen some reference(s) that indicate Moly Lube may clog oil filters & the like.

Anyone have thoughts/experiences applying Moly Lube to above parts? ... Same for Moly Lube clogging ... in-general ML thoughts too?
JACK:gap

The references you've see are correct. Moly assy. lubes plug oil filters and do it very quickly. Use moly lube only on the cam lobes, the rocker balls and rocker arm tips. Use engine oil for the rest. Do prelube the oiling system.

Change the oil filter immediately after the camshaft breakin (20 min at fast idle) is complete.

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

Jack,
I have had good luck using other types of assembly lube. Just about every oil manufacturer has an assembly lube that isn't a graphite base, nasty grey stuff. Look for assembly lube that has the consistency of warm honey at room temps and is clear like clean oil. The main thing you want in a lube is something that has low friction, disolves easy in oil, and doesn't run off parts before you get it fired up. The engine builders I deal with don't use oil during assembly unless the engine is assembled and dyno tested the same day. Remember the old saying, "starting your car is the worst thing you can do"? The reason is, oil thins out and runs back to the pan overnight. Try Klotz or Amsoil, something along those lines. I believe you don't need to apply moly on the lobes if you are running a roller lifter, but check with the cam company!! My grandfather used to use STP oil treatment that had been cut with the oil he planned on using. Has anyone ever tried that before??
Best of luck Jack, hope things work out good for you!!
Brian

 

[Yoda]

.... . . My grandfather used to use STP oil treatment that had been cut with the oil he planned on using. Has anyone ever tried that before??
Best of luck Jack, hope things work out good for you!!
Brian

Yep, but that is the ONLY time I used STP Never added it to the oil.. IMHO STP is great if you run at high rpm's and for long periods of time. Many times I've seen what I refer to as jelled creme during rebuild.. most times the owner used STP ever oil change. Oil additives have there place, just not in anything I own (flame suite on )

BudD

 

[AKRAY4PLAY]

That was gramps' thoughts also. He never ran oil additives, just changed oil and the filter when it would start to turn brown. He told me to always change oil when it became coffee with creamer color. I thought it was a little early, but he had an Olds that he got 440,000 miles out of it and never rebuilt the engine!! It didn't run stong, leaked worse than a boat with a shot gun blast in the bottom, but it ran. I used that idea on my '90 truck and it still runs strong at 207,000 miles. One other interesting use for STP oil treatment, it works great for getting hydrolic ends inserted in the hose prior to crimping!!
Brian

 

[Jack]

scaled-back Moly

Thanks again guys! Motor'll sit for a while (weeks?) before cranking ... so I will spin the oil pump just after final assembly & again just before cranking. After I clean off some of Moly Lube from cam, I'll also scale back my prodigious use of ML ... limit it to what Hib suggests. My Wolverine (Crane's bastard stepchild) mild flat-hyd cam did not come with any lube. The only cam card is the one printed on the box's non-removable label ... probably not necessary for this mild set-up ... but yes, I'll be degreeing it in just to be sure. I found an unopened packet of liquid break-in/assembly lube-stuff made by Comp Cams ... probably use that on the rod, main & cam journals ... petro oil on remainder. Will initialize 20-min cam break-in with either 5-30 or 10-30 full-petro HD oil in pan... then change oil & filter (more petro oil) ... then, after about 500-1K miles I'll change oil & filter again. Once everything's seated I'll go full-synthetic. I've done the STP assembly thing before ... because it was what I had handy ... never knew if it was correct ... but never had a failure. I've been trying to think through this project more so than others ... hence ML ... aka procrastination. BTW, Bubba found a quick solution to bush a 5/8" water pump pilot to a 3/4" fan clutch ... use a copper plumbing coupling.
JACK:gap

 

[Tom Bryant]

Re: scaled-back Moly

My Wolverine (Crane's bastard stepchild) mild flat-hyd cam did not come with any lube. The only cam card is the one printed on the box's non-removable label ... :gap

They still do that? I put a Wolverine solid lifter cam in my '59 in '71 that a friend had around for several years and never used. 293 duration/.428 lift. Just as you said; no lube and only info is the sticker on the box. Sounds nice though. Kind of a Duntov with more lift.

Tom

 

[Jack]

TOM:
Yup, they still do it ... I recently bought a fresh one from a Wolverine w/d (about $45 for just the cam) ... they've got plenty more (all grinds) if anyone's in need. No joke, Crane did buy Wolverine a couple years back. Still ... no card, no lube. Your (quasi 30-30?) should be nice ... along with that Offy too! Mine's pretty mild ... both I&E 224º @ .050”, lift .450”/.460” ... kinda like somewhere between a stock L82 & older LT1 ... more like L82 I think. Maybe the 71 or 72 LT1 was hydraulic??? ... with a little less cam than 70 ... I don't know ... you got ALL the books:L !!!
JACK:gap

 

[Tom Bryant]

The LT1s were all the same solid cam. I always thought of the L82 as a milder, hydraulic lifter version of the LT1 engine.

Tom