WHY? keep the RPMS up while breaking in a flat tap cam?

[grumpyvette]

if youve adjusted the valves correctly the lifter spins at all rpm levels,but that does NOT mean it wears EVENLY at all rpm levels due to several factors if you look closely AT FLAT TAPPET CAMS [/color]youll see that the center of the cam lobe is NOT centered under the lifter and that the lifter surface is slightly angled , BOTH these factors force the lifter to spin in its bore as the lobe passes under the lifter slightly off center.

SOME of the reasons the higher rpm durring the break in phase is important is that

(1) the faster RPMs the better chances the lobe passes under the lifter floated on an oil film and the less time the oil film has to squeeze out between them

(2) the higher the RPM the greater the oil voluum and pressure the engine pumps and the more oil flow is available at the lobes

(3)the higher the rpm level the more oil is thrown from the rods onto the cam lobes

(4)the higher the rpm the greater the lifters weight and inertia tends to compensate for the springs pressure and lower the net pressure as the lifter passes over the cam lobes nose

(5) at higher rpm speed the better chance a small wedge of oil is trapped between the lifter base and lobe from the oil thrown from the lobes surface by centrifical force

(6) two differant metal surfaces scraping past each other at low speeds may tend to wear and GALL as the oil is sqeezed out but two differant hardness steel surfaces that impact each other at higher speeds covered with oil tend to work harden as they mate and will tend to be seperated by that oil

(7)as the lifter spins in its bore the contact point between the lobe and lifter base constantly changes and rotates with the lobe contact point not resisting its passage and the higher the rpms the faster the lifter rotates and the less time the lobe spends at any one point

BTW ADD E.O.S. to the oil and MOLY break-in lube to the cam
before starting the engine and prefill the filter and pre-prime the oil system before starting the engine.
I normally pour it in just before starting the engines cam break in,procedure. because I want to make sure that nothing in the oil/E.O.S. mix can settle out from sitting over a long period of time. now if your running a flat tappet cam you should have also used a moly cam lube on the lobes and be useing a mineral base oil for the break-in procedure, and youll need to do an oil and filter change after about the first 3-4 hours running time to remove that moly cam lube from the engine after its served its purpose of protecting the cams lobes and lifters at start up, aND AS THE LOBES/LIFTERS LAPPED IN. MOSTLY to prevent that moly grease and E.O.S from potentially partially clogging the filter after that mix cools down,but also because both those lubes might leave deposites in the combustion chamber ,over time that might aggravate detonation.
even G.M. suggests that E.O.S. is not a great long term oil suppliment, and that its main function is to add extra oil film strength durring new engine break in.

1052367
ENGOILSUP
EOS - Engine Assembly Prelube<BR>Specifically formulated as an engine assembly lubricant. E.O.S. provides outstanding protection against run-in wear and piston scuffing as well as run-in camshaft lobe and lifter scuffing resulting from insufficient lubrication

don,t forget a few magnets in the oil pan goes a long way towards trapping unwanted metalic dust formed from the cam and rings lapping in durring break-in that might otherwise get imbedded in your bearings or cause other problems
heres the magnets I use in every engine

http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0035

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=reasonsForFailure

 

[Tom Bryant]

What do you think of the magnets that wrap around the oil filter?

 

[grumpyvette]

"What do you think of the magnets that wrap around the oil filter ??"

I think they are a good but NOT AN excellent IDEA (IF) you also run magnets in the oil pan!
if your only running a magnet on the filter your loosing some of the advantages magnets can potentially provide, ESPECIALLY if you run several in the corners of the oil pan and one in the rear of each cylinder head to catch broken valve train shrapnel from failed components that can cause EXTENSIVE damage if caught in the spinning assembly as the fall to the pan!
HERES WHY
(1)any metalic dust or grit that makes it to the oil filter MUST pas thru the OIL PUMP FIRST
(2)any oil pressure differance between the oil entering the filter and leaving the filter EXCEEDING 10PSI has a GOOD CHANCE of passing UNFILTERED OIL into the OIL PASSAGES

AND THAT HAPPENDS EVERY TIME YOU REV THE ENGINE or the OILS COLD or the filters DIRTY
(3)catching the MAJORITY of the METALIC CRUD BEFORE it ENTERS the OIL pump and BEFORE it gets jammed into the rods or block by the spinning rotating assemblyis the BETTER option to prevent CRUD being embedded in bearings and cylinder walls causing wear

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks. I see your point.

Tom

 

[grumpyvette]

http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin/edatcat/WMSstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=0035

I normally install 4 of the magnets above in the corners of the oil pan, two in the heads and two in the lifter gallery in the edge of the oil flow returns front and back.
if you don,t think thats a good idea ID invite you to check them carefully after an engine pull down! THEY WITHOUT FAIL are covered with metallic CRUD that POTENTIALLY would have made it to the BEARINGS had the MAGNETS not been there!

these ARE NOT comon refridgerator magnets ...EACH can pick up a SBC CYLINDER HEAD