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My Anti-Freeze is Leaking

Try Amaozon
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0879382368/ref=ase_classiccarbooks/104-3372437-9191915

Stallion said:
"Corvette 1966-82 (sic) Shop Manual (MBI Publishing)"

This is the one I'm looking for. I've found the Assembly Manual, but I can't find this one. Where did you get it?

68Roadster is sending me pictures of what this water neck gasket looks like and then hopefully I'll be able to pin-point it in my Vette and analyze if that's what I need to change. So it's either that or the intake?

Thanks! :)

TR
 
I have followed this thread and never saw anyone mention to Stallion that you need to drain the radiator first before removing the T-stat housing. Remember this is his first experience so we should instruct him by the numbers. Just my $.02.

Randy:w
 
Randy - How right you are. I am going to drain mine on Friday evening and pull the intake on Sat.

Dave
 
Have fun and enjoy your endless money pit we like to call America's sports car---------------------By the way, I have 2 of those pieces of crap, don't ever drive them more than 100 miles a year, mainly because they are unreliable and shaky at best (must be me though)

Ratdog,

Suggest you sell them to someone who really wants one, can afford the upkeep, and can maintain the vettes and then you buy a more realiable car that is cheaper to maintain. Say, oh I don't know, a Honda. ;shrug

Randy

:v
 
Randy or Whoever, make me an offer.72M mile all matching 69 427/390 and a all matching 75 with new engine, 350 with 2-4's
 
I bid ONE DOLLAR!!!

EACH!!!

:)

(That's all I have left after nuking my credit cards on mine.... :) )

But I don't know about this 100 miles a year thing - I've just crossed 26,000 since July.

My $21K in repairs/mods could have really been about $5K if I wasn't upgrading and modifying everything to take a 1,000 HP monster big-block mill, trust myself to do all the repairs I would have done on a Mopar, 4 Wheeler or other Chevy, and didn't buy every superfluous tool, supply and book I found.

As far as rattle - I still don't get this one. I've never owned a tighter handling, finer vehicle. I've never rented one either, and I've rented probably over 50 in the last ten years. I cured most of the worst rattles with just tightening some spoiler bolts and adding door parts the last idiot took off to paint.

I guess that's just culture or time shock though. Of the 25 or so cars I've owned, I've never owned a running one newer than 1986 and only two in the '80's at all. I never could stomach having endless car payments for some reason (although $50K+ in 20% CC debt doesn't seem to annoy me enough! :Silly ), and recently watched with horror as Texas changed it's pollution inspection procedures to, in some ways, worse than California.

I don't even find temporarily driving mine with a disconnected PS pump much of an annoyance, having driven the Blazer that way for months with real 4-Wheeler tires.

Similarly, I am equally amused by those wondering what a vacuum advance and such is for - I've only ever owned one car with EFI and after a fire, I converted it!!! To me all cars have real distributors and carburetors.

Now I drive newmobiles on rental and at work, so I'm not unfamiliar with them, in person, but I have yet to be overly impressed.

Only once have I been in any vehicle that you could take to (corrected for tires) 136 with the top down and one hand on the wheel and both feel and be in complete control. That car is my '75 and I know it could have gone further with more gear or motor, a lot more with some aerodynamics.

I pushed one of the new Caddy's or Lincolns I rented about 4-5 years back up to 130 and, while in control, I was not comfortable. I felt like I was floating and at any moment could have lost it. Not so with the vette - I tried lane changes and everything.

As for handling - wow. I've driven a few of the little performance ricers friends had, some tricked out early '90's Mustangs too. I don't know any of these I could take on some of the curves and corners I take this thing on every day at really silly speeds without even a tire squeeling! Maybe they didn't set theirs up right - I don't know, but this 28-year old thing sticks to the pavement like it was glued there - I've had to relearn how to drive, because I never believed this was possible.

There's one highway curve in particular in the Dallas area I can't resist hitting hard everytime I go around it. In north Dallas/Farmer's Branchish 635 intersects 35E. The southern turn off of that when heading west is a three lane thing of about 80 degrees in a fairly large arc, banked correctly about 10-15 degrees, with two nasty bumps in the middle of it.

I was besides one of these nameless Zeromobiles or another - all wedge-shaped with about 50 different fairings and wings and absurd 1/4" rubber-under rim hyper-low aspect tires - (I think it was a Galant) running along 635 at 85 or so.

I moved to the far right lane so if I lost it only I paid for it. I took that curve somewhere aound 5200 or so - which is about a corrected 105. The tires did finally squeel a little coming down after the second bump. In my rear veiw mirror a good 10+ car lengths back now, where he (or she - I never saw) had had to drop back to, I saw him/her have to let off even more and come over to the right lane and even into the right shoulder a little to hold onto it.

Sorry - I don't find anything inadequate about that, even by today's standards. I've only gone about half-way on the suspension upgrades too. My gawd, mine survived without wrecking! losing a rear wheel at 80! Still having power, I managed to get it another 300-500 yards to the opposite lane to shut it down safely - on three wheels! That should have killed me and worse, wrecked the car, and would have in one of these ricers or a Mustang or a Cuda or even one of the last Camaro's. Not in the "rattlemobile" though.

Mine has been staggeringly expensive, and I'm really only 35-40% of the way into the project, but most of that was my fault.

Now that I've finished defending my master :) tell me about your '75 and the louvered hood scoop and twin 4's! That have that monstrous an engine or were you just foooling around?
Looks neat to my twisted tastes! :upthumbs
 
Quote from Ratdog:
Welcome to the world of owning a Corvette. Everytime you drive it, expect to have repairs totaling no less than 250$. Sounds like you have no mechanical abilities, so be prepared to pay high hourly labor rates!!! Have fun and enjoy your endless money pit we like to call America's sports car---------------------By the way, I have 2 of those pieces of crap, don't ever drive them more than 100 miles a year, mainly because they are unreliable and shaky at best (must be me though)



DUDE...LIGHTEN UP!!
The kid is sixteen years old. By your profile we don't know how old you are but I'm certain your mechanical skills weren't the greatest when you were sixteen. At least the kid has a thirst for knowledge and the desire to accomplish the task himself. All we've seen from you is a desire to rag someone else's skills (or lack of) and voice your displeasure with two vehicles for some reason you still own.

...as for this forum, it's a place where owners/admirers of Corvettes come to chat, get problems solved, interact with people like them.

Obviously you don't need any help, don't admire the cars and your'e definitely not anywhere close to most of the helpful/knowledgeful people on this site so like Vette-Dude says....buy a Honda!
 
I see I'm not the only one that had to attempt fate on the 635 / 35 curve.:Steer In at 95 out at 105. Back when I was young and dumb in a 69 firebird.:SLAP

Mike
 
Thanks for that link to Amazon. Well I'm there, I think I'll just look for the Assembly manual there so I can get both books in one shot. $18, not bad. :D

Before I work on the cooling system (whether it be the pump or the hoses, or that gasket) I will be sure to drain out the coolant. That's not a bad idea anyways, because we just got the Vette and I might as well change that anyways.

So first off I'll check the bolts on the intake to make sure they are torqued to specs. Then if that doesn't work it still might be the intake? Maybe a cracked gasket, I guess? How will I know for sure where this leak is coming from?

Thanks! :)

TR
 
TR,
You don't need to drain it all.....a couple of quarts may get you down below the water neck. If you want to change out the antifreeze anyway, then by all means drain it all. Just don't let any dogs near it......

Torque the bolts on the intake, change the thermostat gasket underneath the water neck, make sure it isn't cracked after you get it off and cleaned up, put it back together, refill the system and then wait......leaks aren't always easy to find. Just gotta attack it one by one.
 
Ratdog,
I would love to have either of those fine looking vettes but got no more room at this time. My 94 takes up one space and I am going to order a new 2003 Vert. sometime this spring. I have had a C-2 before but never owned a C-3 yet. I like 'em but until I have a larger garage (which the county zoners put a halt to) I don't have the space. What kinda of prices are u looking at?

Randy:w
 
Another thought

1) Closely inspect the bolts holding the intake down... only 1 bolt might be sweating.. just back that bolt out and put some NON HARDENING goo back on the threads and crank her back down... the water jacket in the heads runs below the holes holding down the intake... you might not even need to remove the entire intake.. Wipe the area down CLEAN start her up..let it get FULLY heated up.. then take a gander!

2) You SHOULD change your stat out...just as a maintance item.. drain a quart out ( or 2 )... replace the stat & gasket.. clean both mating surfaces REALLY CLEAN. ( might want to paint the stat housing while you are there ) .. Clean the threads & bolts up.... Put some sealant on the housing & the bolts... put her back together.. ( replace the upper hose if needed )

And Vroom away you go!

Vig~
 
Okay, thanks for those picture, Cee! I appreciate it. And I think I know now what the water neck gasket is and where it is. When I get an extra minute, I'll go under the hood of my Vette and try to pin-point what I think we are referring to. Thanks! :)

Okay, I will take all these measures and hopefully the end result will be a discovered and fixed leak. Hopefully I get around to doing this in the very near future. I don't want this leak to linger over me.

Thanks for the tips! :D

TR
 
It's definitely the intake. The seal is shot or maybe the bolts just need tightening. Where the intake meets the block it is a wet and perspired. And the intake lip is dry. So I don't think it's the water neck gasket because that's much farther up and on the housing, and there's no AF trail coming all the way down.

So I'll try toquing the bolts and if that doesn't work I'll have to change the intake all-together.

But just one question, how would the anti-freeze get to the intake manifold anyway? I mean, is that the path of the anti-freeze to run? I didn't know that it went through the intake. Or doesn't it? I just thought it went to the sides along the cylinders. I didn't know it had anything to do with the intake. Does it run through the intake then?

Thanks! :)
 
Ok one more time with feeling

YES.. for a stock mainfold the water jackets from the head show up at the front & rear of each side of the heads and DO run internal of the intake mainifold.. remember where the thermostat is..

In addition the threaded HOLES that run through the head to hold the intake down DO penetrate into the water path.

THAT'S WHY IT IS IMPORTANT TO PUT SEALANT ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS.

Otherwise you get the sweating effect,
as the coolant ( under pressure ) seeps it's way UP the threads.. if there's to much pressure ( from the leak) the escaping coolant will steam clean the gasket away.

SO.. before you change the entire intake.. find the bolts that are sweating.. drain some coolant... check if the bolts are LOOSE.. back the bolts out... clean em good... put some NON HARDENING goop on the threads and torque em back down.

This MIGHT clear up your leak.. but as stated earlier..if there's a leak at the gasket.. around the sealing lip ( head to intake) then off the intake comes.


Vig~
 
I found my leak

As I surmised,I had antifreeze pushing up through a cracked intake gasket back at #8 cylinder. You could actually see the cut or crack in the gasket. Pulled the manifold last night along with emission pump and hoses. I am going to store them(emission stuff) in a box in case for some reason I ever want (or need) to return to stock condition.
That really frees up a lot space in front of the engine! I am going to drop my manifold off at my freinds shop so he can bead blast it for me.
TR - looks like you'll be under taking the same project I am working on. I am glad you pin-pointed your problem. if I can help,let me know.

Here is a picture of where the leak was.

Dave
 

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