My interior progress on the 61

[studiog]

Had the camera handy and snapped off some shots as I was installing the carpet.

http://users.adelphia.net/~gsisti/

 

[stepinwolf]

Had the camera handy and snapped off some shots as I was installing the carpet.

http://users.adelphia.net/~gsisti/

Great shots, of a wonderful job being done. I must also congratulate you on the cleanless, of the floor areas that you are gluing the carpet to.

One thing that troubles me ( although it's none of my business ) is the foil heat shielding material that you are installing onto the flat sections of the floor. My question is this, " should you not have used the same covering on the tunnel area ". Almost all of the undercar heat being generated, ( or radiated ) into the driving compartement, is from this area, so should we not normally start by covering this area first.?

I did mention that is was none of my business. :ugh

Stepinwolf

 

[IH2LOSE]

Gary

Its coming along,your cluster looks great also. I cant wait to see it done.

 

[studiog]

Great shots, of a wonderful job being done. I must also congratulate you on the cleanless, of the floor areas that you are gluing the carpet to.

One thing that troubles me ( although it's none of my business ) is the foil heat shielding material that you are installing onto the flat sections of the floor. My question is this, " should you not have used the same covering on the tunnel area ". Almost all of the undercar heat being generated, ( or radiated ) into the driving compartement, is from this area, so should we not normally start by covering this area first.?

I did mention that is was none of my business. :ugh

Stepinwolf

Hi Stepinwolf,
I agree with you 100%. I did debate covering the tunnel but I decided I would not as I wasn't sure how good my carpet would fit, and stick, with all the curves and this is my first install. My main reason for doing the flat areas as that I noticed a tremendous amount of "panel drumming" (got that term from John Z) in the large flat areas and this is also where the exhaust system passes underneath. I appreciate your honest appraisal.
Regards,
Gary

 

[BarryK]

it looks good!
amazing how something as simple as carpet does to transform a car from looking like a work-in-progress into something much more complete and ready to hop into and drive .
you must be getting very excited to be nearing the end of your project

 

[61 Silver]

Had the camera handy and snapped off some shots as I was installing the carpet.

http://users.adelphia.net/~gsisti/

Hi! Studiog

I just got back form picking up my 63 frame in Michigan and read your post and viewed your pictures.



The 61 is looking GREAT! It won't be long now and you will be hearing the sounds of the second WCFB kicking in. You have to be very happy, Great work!

Ray

 

[studiog]

Hi! Studiog

I just got back form picking up my 63 frame in Michigan and read your post and viewed your pictures.



The 61 is looking GREAT! It won't be long now and you will be hearing the sounds of the second WCFB kicking in. You have to be very happy, Great work!

Ray

Ray is it a new frame?

 

[stepinwolf]

Hi Stepinwolf,
I agree with you 100%. I did debate covering the tunnel but I decided I would not as I wasn't sure how good my carpet would fit, and stick, with all the curves and this is my first install. My main reason for doing the flat areas as that I noticed a tremendous amount of "panel drumming" (got that term from John Z) in the large flat areas and this is also where the exhaust system passes underneath. I appreciate your honest appraisal.
Regards,
Gary

Gary,

If you are afraid of the build up, and creases using the foil backed material, there is an excellent solution. It is called Lizard Skin, and is used by a lot of high end sound shops to all but eliminate the heat, moisture, and noise, from entering the passenger area, when they install their sound systems.

It is expensive ( about 200$ ) for this pail, but will cut the noise and heat almost 80%. It also can be applied to any undercar section, and it is just as effective on one side or the other of the fiberglass panels. Read the instruction on the side of the pail for more details.

As far as your panel drumming it won't be eliminated by the type of foil insulation you seem to be using. What you should be looking at is a product made by "Insulshield Technoloogy." called Carpet Underlayment. It is a closed cell foam layer with vinyl backing, and is completely moisture, and water repellent. It can be used from firewall to trunk area, and will dampen, or eliminate all motor, exhaust, and road noise. Check out their website at the following link www.insulshield.net

Stepinwolf

 

[Mac]

I've read a bit about Lizard Skin before... Does it really work as well as they claim, Bob?

-Mac

 

[stepinwolf]

I've read a bit about Lizard Skin before... Does it really work as well as they claim, Bob?

-Mac

Mac,

I am still in the process of covering certain parts with it, so I can not speak from experience, but I have spoken to more then a few builders, who will not use anything else. The fun part is that it can be applied with a spray gun, brush or even a roller. It is biodegradable, non toxic, and washes with water for the clean up. Most will use an additional coat on the underside, and black it out during the undercoating.

I will be covering all the hidden areas of the metal birdcage, before bonding the fiberglass panels to it in order to cut down on the noise emulating through the cage from the hinge area.


Stepinwolf

 

[Mac]

Since it is water soluble, is there any concern with using it over areas which have seen oil in the past... ie: the bottom of the car, especially the tunnel. I expect surface prep would have to include a really good degreasing.

-Mac

 

[firstgear]

Mac,

I will be covering all the hidden areas of the metal birdcage, before bonding the fiberglass panels to it in order to cut down on the noise emulating through the cage from the hinge area.


Stepinwolf

this is really a dumb question....but if your exhaust is loud at all....or in my case side exhaust...I would think I could have the liberty bell banging under and throughout the car and I would never hear it over the exhaust.....the heat resistance makes sense....but the noise or vibration resistance/damping....well....given everything else in the car, I would think that would be the least of my noise worries.....IMHO.....

 

[stepinwolf]

Since it is water soluble, is there any concern with using it over areas which have seen oil in the past... ie: the bottom of the car, especially the tunnel. I expect surface prep would have to include a really good degreasing.

-Mac

It is water soluble, but only up until the time it dries. Then I would expect it would have the same properties as latex paint that no longer can be removed. I have not yet attempted to remove any material that has completely dried, other then one of my brushes, and it didn't happen.

Surface preparation is identical to any other type of covering, clean and degreased for better adhesion. I plan to cover all the difficult to access areas, in the underdash area, and inner portions of door and hinge jams.

Stepinwolf

 

[stepinwolf]

this is really a dumb question....but if your exhaust is loud at all....or in my case side exhaust...I would think I could have the liberty bell banging under and throughout the car and I would never hear it over the exhaust.....the heat resistance makes sense....but the noise or vibration resistance/damping....well....given everything else in the car, I would think that would be the least of my noise worries.....IMHO.....

Firstgear

I don't want to argue the point, but the side exhausts mufflers on my own car are without a doubt, some of the LOUDEST aftermarket mufflers, I have ever heard. This exhaust sound is even offencive when the car is just sitting there idling. However on the highway at speed, I can still clearly hear every little rattle and squeak, not to mention the whine of the rear, and the tires on the road. I promise you that it won't happen with this next 63 SWC, named appropriately " Born to be Wild ".

As far as noise reduction, a door panel covered with the underlay material sounds like the door on your fridge when you close it, as compared to the sound of the same door without covering being akin to the sound of an out-house door, slamming shut .

Stepinwolf

 

[2X4's 60]

Great pics. I have always wanted to use the Hurst shifter with the "original" appearing stick. I compared mine (1960 with original shifter) to my freinds 59 with the same set-up you have. On his 59, the stick is noticably taller and the stock shift boot doesn't fit correctly because of the bolts for attaching the stick. Do you have a solution for the shift boot problem? I really miss the feel of a Hurst shifter and would put one in if the install could be undetectable.

P.S. I measured the original shifter in mine. In neutral, it is exactly 6" from the top of the console plate to the top of the ball. What is the height of yours?

 

[studiog]

Gary,

If you are afraid of the build up, and creases using the foil backed material, there is an excellent solution. It is called Lizard Skin, and is used by a lot of high end sound shops to all but eliminate the heat, moisture, and noise, from entering the passenger area, when they install their sound systems.

It is expensive ( about 200$ ) for this pail, but will cut the noise and heat almost 80%. It also can be applied to any undercar section, and it is just as effective on one side or the other of the fiberglass panels. Read the instruction on the side of the pail for more details.

As far as your panel drumming it won't be eliminated by the type of foil insulation you seem to be using. What you should be looking at is a product made by "Insulshield Technoloogy." called Carpet Underlayment. It is a closed cell foam layer with vinyl backing, and is completely moisture, and water repellent. It can be used from firewall to trunk area, and will dampen, or eliminate all motor, exhaust, and road noise. Check out their website at the following link www.insulshield.net

Stepinwolf

Stepinwolf, Thanks for the info those look like great products. I will keep them in my files for my next project which may be a resto-mod probably a 61 again.

 

[studiog]

Great pics. I have always wanted to use the Hurst shifter with the "original" appearing stick. I compared mine (1960 with original shifter) to my freinds 59 with the same set-up you have. On his 59, the stick is noticably taller and the stock shift boot doesn't fit correctly because of the bolts for attaching the stick. Do you have a solution for the shift boot problem? I really miss the feel of a Hurst shifter and would put one in if the install could be undetectable.

P.S. I measured the original shifter in mine. In neutral, it is exactly 6" from the top of the console plate to the top of the ball. What is the height of yours?

The shifter is just a hair over 7" from plate to top of knob. Just installed the boot fits well and covers the bolts fine but it doesn't fit concave like a stock one would. I'll let you know how it wears. It has a very short throw so I think it will be okay.

 

[61 Silver]

Ray is it a new frame?

Hi! Stuidog

The frame is new and made by Vette Products. I was going to purchase replacement parts, but the frame needed so much work I felt it would be better to replace it. They have the original GM gigs and fixtures for the frame. Every thing looks great but we will see how everything fits when we have body drop. I will post some pictures after painting the frame and the installation of some of the suspension components. The shimming process will be interesting.



Keep the pictures coming on your 61! It is a beautiful car.



Ray

 

[studiog]

Hi! Stuidog

The frame is new and made by Vette Products. I was going to purchase replacement parts, but the frame needed so much work I felt it would be better to replace it. They have the original GM gigs and fixtures for the frame. Every thing looks great but we will see how everything fits when we have body drop. I will post some pictures after painting the frame and the installation of some of the suspension components. The shimming process will be interesting.



Keep the pictures coming on your 61! It is a beautiful car.



Ray

Ray do you still have your old frame to check measurements to the new one?

 

[61 Silver]

Hi! Gary



Yes I still have the original frame and I can use it to transfer measurements from, but with all the rust that was in that frame I was wondering if I would be better off starting from scratch and trying to shim to the body lines. What do you think?



Ray