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My new 3:55 Gear did what ??

  • Thread starter Thread starter cmegga
  • Start date Start date
Thermosat is a 160, I went threw alot of the cooling system last year.

I also did the jethot headers, new clutch fan, electric fan, and waterpump to boot. And has been very cosistant now , until I hit the hwy with that new gear.

The motor is boarded 20 over stock.
 
cmegga said:
Thermosat is a 160, I went threw alot of the cooling system last year.

I also did the jethot headers, new clutch fan, electric fan, and waterpump to boot. And has been very cosistant now , until I hit the hwy with that new gear.

The motor is boarded 20 over stock.

OK.........the reason that I asked, is that there is an outside chance that the overbore put your cylinders too close to the water jackets & that could contribute to the extra heat. I know this happens on some small blocks when bore is at .030 or .040 over, but never heard of it happening at .020 over. If you're running a 160 thremostat & your running 205, there is definately something wrong. We had this problem in one of our club members street rods awhile back. I'll check with him to find out what caused his problem & I also know that he ended up using a special coolant (not Gylcol) & he had real good results in cooling his motor. I'll check it out & get back to you on it. Dave :Steer
 
I'm not so sure the 3.55s 'hurt' the transmission, or is the reason for your over-heating problem. I once drove my .030"-over 350 '79 Z28 300+ miles, EACH way, Pittsburgh to Poconos, on the Interstate @ 55+ MPH, running a non-lock-up THM350, a 9"/3000 RPM converter, and 4.56 gears (I was young and stupid!) without ANY motor, tranny, or rear-end problems (mileage was another story!). As for the 3.55s, GM offered them as OEM for years w/o problems; Hell, I think '70 1/2 Z28s came STANDARD with 4.10s and a non-locking THM400 converter. If I 'had' to guess, I'd think the hurt tranny and the over-heating are seperate problems. If you want a 'bullet-proof' combination, rebuild a THM400 tranny using a TCI extra-low gear-set (2.75:1 first; 1.57:1 second, and 1:1 3rd gear) with a stock (tight) torque converter. You'll NEVER hurt the THM400 with less than 400 HP; the lower 1st & 2nd gearing will be even QUICKER; and a stock, or tight, converter, will allow maximum mileage, and less heat/slippage. Just my $.02 worth.....
 
Well I made the call, Im going to rebuild the TH350. Hes going to do some upgraded clutchs and what not. Ill be back where I started about $900 poorer. So Ill take it from there.

Im a little disapointed I couldnt swing the 4 speed, but I will make do with fixing what I had for now. It will leaving me some more to do down the road as there cant be mouch more now.

Im gald this is the last major item to replace on the car. Im getting sick of upgrading one thing to brake another. It is my first car I ve really ever build up, and a definate learning experence for me. What to do first and what to do togher and what not.

I let you guys know how she turns out, as always thanks for all the great feedback from all of you. I would truly be lost with out all of your adivice to count on !!
 
900.00 seems a bit much to me, Jeg's Performance sells street strip transmissions for 599.99 for cars up to 400 hp. TCI also in the same book has there Street Fighter tranny for up to 450 hp motors for 719.99, you might want to check them out.

Ron
 
Tweek ,

Thats going to include a converter rebuld, (they say it could be contaminated ), all other parts and Labor. As Im not very mechanically inclinded.
 
cmegga said:
Tweek ,

Thats going to include a converter rebuld, (they say it could be contaminated ), all other parts and Labor. As Im not very mechanically inclinded.


cmegga: I'd "dump" that lock-up converter TH350C trannie, unless you need it in your car (maybe computerized). They're more costly to rebuild & the converters aren't that great (lock-up one's, that is). Your problem got me to thinking & as I recall, I "lunched" a trans in pretty much the same way, except I lost first gear first, then second gear next & limped home with just third gear. Tore down the trans & discovered that the converter let go & everything from that went through the trans, tearing it up as it went. I'm willing to gamble that is what happened to your TH350; your converter gave out. I'd opt for one of those regular TH350's (not TH350C) from Jeg's or Summit or whatever, than to fork over 900 plus bucks. Besides, with the difference in cost, you can get a pretty nice non-lock-up converter to go with that trans & really be in business. TCI makes quality stuff & stands behind their merchandise. I'd talk it over with then before making any final decisions. Take care & good luck!

Dave :Steer
 
;stupid For $900, you might be able to get a decent THM400 and converter, which you'll NEVER break! In fact, my local tranny-guy does my THM400's at $300 a pop. I got 1100+ runs outta the last one, and I absolutely ABUSE it in the water-box!
 
cruisin-davey-g said:
OK.........the reason that I asked, is that there is an outside chance that the overbore put your cylinders too close to the water jackets & that could contribute to the extra heat. I know this happens on some small blocks when bore is at .030 or .040 over, but never heard of it happening at .020 over. If you're running a 160 thremostat & your running 205, there is definately something wrong. We had this problem in one of our club members street rods awhile back. I'll check with him to find out what caused his problem & I also know that he ended up using a special coolant (not Gylcol) & he had real good results in cooling his motor. I'll check it out & get back to you on it. Dave :Steer

cmegga: Talked to my engine guy & he said that he's never heard of .020 over. Small blocks are either .010, .030, & .040 & sometimes .060 over (but, that's pushing it). The coolant I was talking about is called "Evans Cooling System": they're using this stuff in the new 'vettes. It's like an oil & is completely waterless & definately will cool down your system.

Dave :Steer
 
cruisin-davey-g said:
cmegga: Talked to my engine guy & he said that he's never heard of .020 over. Small blocks are either .010, .030, & .040 & sometimes .060 over (but, that's pushing it).

Tell him to check a piston manufacturer's catalog - they definitely sell .020 pistons for the small block.

Joe
 
MaineShark said:
Tell him to check a piston manufacturer's catalog - they definitely sell .020 pistons for the small block.

Joe


Joe: Just could be that he doesn't do .020 over on the small blocks. May just think .010 & .030 over is better; it's probably justa matter of preference. But, that's what he told me.


Dave :Steer
 
It is a 20 over, we did as little over as possible specifically to keep from have a heat problem. Thou I may have one regardless.

As far as a regular TH350 I will check with my mechanic to see what he thinks. Im not sure it would make too much of a diffrence over what I have. The big gain would just be droping the lock up converter right ?


Thanks for the tip on the cooling system I will look into it. I ran the Redline waterwetter last summer and it seemed to help drop the temp about 10 degrees or so.
 
cmegga said:
It is a 20 over, we did as little over as possible specifically to keep from have a heat problem. Thou I may have one regardless.

As far as a regular TH350 I will check with my mechanic to see what he thinks. Im not sure it would make too much of a diffrence over what I have. The big gain would just be droping the lock up converter right ?


Thanks for the tip on the cooling system I will look into it. I ran the Redline waterwetter last summer and it seemed to help drop the temp about 10 degrees or so.

cmegga: Is this shop you're dealing with a local place (trans shop?) Yeah. I really think that you can do better on a TH350. $900 plus dollars seems alot for a trans build up, especially for a TH350. Just could be that your trans is a lock-up-converter type trans. Never had much faith in those myself. I'd shop around a little bit before making any finals. From what you're telling me, you're having your converter rebuilt, so it is probably the lock up type. For the kind of monies your quoting, you can get a pretty decent aftermarket performance converter. Of course, prices aren't what they use to be. I'm also interested as to what actually happened to your TH350. I still think the converter "puked". One thing: Just before you lost 3rd gear. did you smell any kinda rubber smell (sorta like rubber burning, but not exactly the same as tire rubber; more of a rotten rubber smell)? Keep me posted & whatever you do I sincerely hope that evervthing goes good for you.

Dave :Steer "A CORVETTE IS A TERRIBLE THING TO WASTE!"
 
Too bad you're not down here in San Antonio. I had a tranny shop manager offer to build up and install a 700-R4 for $975!

I'm with the others -- $900 is steep for the job at hand. But prices can vary by region. We all know that...
 
Im ok with the $900 hes giving me a warenty and has been doing good work for me so far. Most of it is coming for the rebuld and they are doing all the high grade performance series clutchs. They say it should take up to 500hp all day when done. So I should definatly be safe with my application.

Im also going with a transmission cooler , so hopefully that will help solve some future problems. Not running it threw the radiator any longer may also lower the engine temp that went up on me. Plus help keep her cool running at those high RPMs.

On last question , anyone know what the right speedometer gear is for a 3:55 gear with 205-60-tires ( 26" tall ).

I had a 22 tooth gear, to begin with that was acurate to 2 or 3 MPH. I know I need biger but which one ? I see a 24 or 25 tooth avalible, what do ya think ??
 
I only paid about 750 for my swap. I had a local trans shop do a rebuild on a core I got out of a junk yard for 50. They did the whole setup and mods for about 580. This included the kevlar bands and transgo mods that the expensive shops do. The crossmember bracket was 30 at a swap meet. All you need is the front bolt on shelf. Get it out of an 82. Michigan Corvette has them. Bought a TV cable at the dealer for 85 camaro for 18. Works with the stock bracket and pin on the carb. Shortened drive shaft 2 3/4" at 50 dollars. I used a stock torque convt. out of a 85 IROC since it is a 1800-2000 stall. It took me about 2 hours total to install and it the road. I think some of the shops like to scare you into doing and spending more than you need.
 
79blueshark said:
I only paid about 750 for my swap. I had a local trans shop do a rebuild on a core I got out of a junk yard for 50. They did the whole setup and mods for about 580. This included the kevlar bands and transgo mods that the expensive shops do. The crossmember bracket was 30 at a swap meet. All you need is the front bolt on shelf. Get it out of an 82. Michigan Corvette has them. Bought a TV cable at the dealer for 85 camaro for 18. Works with the stock bracket and pin on the carb. Shortened drive shaft 2 3/4" at 50 dollars. I used a stock torque convt. out of a 85 IROC since it is a 1800-2000 stall. It took me about 2 hours total to install and it the road. I think some of the shops like to scare you into doing and spending more than you need.

79blueshark has the right idea. But I think cmegga may be dealing with a mail order place for his trans & accessories. I really don't know if he's doing his own swap (labor stuff), this may be why he's getting it at that price. This is why I always say to shop around to get the best deal & comparative pricing. Like everything else, prices vary. Also, you may be able to do price matching at these shops. Anyway, it doesn't hurt to try. I'm in Mich & "79blueshark" is in Ohio (midwest towns), could be that prices are similiar in the midwest & maybe not true for the Northeast.

Dave: :Steer "A CORVETTE IS A TERRIBLE THING TO WASTE!"
 
cruisin-davey-g said:
The coolant I was talking about is called "Evans Cooling System": they're using this stuff in the new 'vettes. It's like an oil & is completely waterless & definately will cool down your system.

Dave :Steer

The "Evans Coolant" is NOT used in the new Corvettes, or in any other new cars, for that matter; it's essentially "snake oil", and a waste of money. All it will reduce is the thickness of your wallet :(
 
JohnZ said:
The "Evans Coolant" is NOT used in the new Corvettes, or in any other new cars, for that matter; it's essentially "snake oil", and a waste of money. All it will reduce is the thickness of your wallet :(


Frankly, I've never used the stuff, but, So far it's been working OK in my buddies car & he's tried everything to cool his engine down. So far, this is the only stuff that's worked. But, I'll wait & see what long term effect it will have on his vehicle, I really don't know what kinda cars it's been used in, just "quoting" a friend. Thanx for the tip! BTW: Ever heard of the "Redline" cooling products?

Dave: :Steer
 
I ran the Redline waterwetter last summer and it seemed to help drop the temp about 10 degrees or so.
 

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