So it was the correct part, but I managed to break two of them in the process. At $11.00 a pop I would recommend patience for anyone doing this in the future. My friend and I got a little gung ho on this "simple" task.
These switches are pretty low on the durability scale. The "nub" on the end of the switch (kind of looks a screw or a small flat topped nail) is only ribbed, not threaded. This means that once the ribs get worn from constant force (opening and closing the door) the "nub" just comes loose and slides in the switch. Even the initial setting of this "nub" to get the gap right, to close the circuit when the door closes (technically opening the circuit) puts wear on it. A threaded adjustment to shorten or lengthen the switch would have been a monumental advancement in this case.
I replaced the drivers side with a new switch, but carefully had to tap the "nub" down to the correct height to work properly and not shatter it like first one.;stupid
For the passenger side I ended up using the original switch but I pulled out the old "nub" and replaced it with the nub that was on the second switch I broke.
Being that this hole was worn already I cut the end off of an 18 gauge "butt connector" and used that little 1/8 inch piece of plastic as a sleeve to keep the "nub" from sliding all the way in. Works great.
This was all done without having to take off the door panels too. There is a backing that the screws hold onto that fasten the switch to the door frame. It's the same shape as the switch. After removing one screw I took about a six inch piece of wire from a clothes hanger (bent two inches at the end 90 degrees) put it in the screw hole and held the backing plate up while the other screw came out. After the switch was hanging out a little I put one screw back in to hold the plate. then you just have to get the switch out . (lather, rinse, repeat in opposite order)
It's never easy is it. Might be helpful to someone in the future.
Spiderman (Lord of the Dooor Switch)
