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Need Help with 77 Brake Rotors

  • Thread starter Thread starter 77Vette
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77Vette

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Hope someone can help. What is the best way to remove rotors that are riveted on? Do the replacements have rivets also??
 
You drill out the rivets. Then you have to decide if you want rivets back in or just put in allen head set screws. To put in set screws, you have to thread the rivet holes which isn't a bid job to do.
 
If you remove the rotors from the hubs? Make sure you have the new rotors turned first and then dial indictate them in after bolting them on. The C3s need almost a perfect run out to keep good brakes. read this article: http://www.idavette.net/hib/BBfHInet12.htm

Sorry to jump, but the above is absolutely incorrect and does not apply to C2 or C3 Corvettes!

The process is the opposite, attach the rotor to the hub first, measure for runout, THEN machine for trueness if required.

For the original poster, why do you want to change the rotors?
 
Sorry to jump, but the above is absolutely incorrect and does not apply to C2 or C3 Corvettes!

The process is the opposite, attach the rotor to the hub first, measure for runout, THEN machine for trueness if required.

For the original poster, why do you want to change the rotors?

Sorry to disagree but I have contacted GM parts departments, O-Reily Auto parts and NAPA auto parts and no one can guarantee a rotor out of the box is true. I have also contacted Large Brake shops and they turn all new rotors at no cost to assure a good brake job
 
Mike is correct, 65-82 corvette rotors should not be turned unless they are rivited or bolted to the hubs or spindle flanges. I'm not looking to argue this point but I've been fixing vette brakes since 1978. They got a bad rap from uninformed mechanics who do not understand the system and many times make them worse.
New rotors out of the box runout a lot, USA or imported. There are several reasons why and if not checked poor results will follow.
I have NEVER used O Ring seals, fancy pads,DOT5 BF, or drilled rotors and my vettes stop on a dime. You must get the bearing endplay and rotor runout under 002"
With respect to this forum, this link will help you understand the runout issue and save me from typing it all again.

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125
 
Mike is correct, 65-82 corvette rotors should not be turned unless they are rivited or bolted to the hubs or spindle flanges. I'm not looking to argue this point but I've been fixing vette brakes since 1978. They got a bad rap from uninformed mechanics who do not understand the system and many times make them worse.
New rotors out of the box runout a lot, USA or imported. There are several reasons why and if not checked poor results will follow.
I have NEVER used O Ring seals, fancy pads,DOT5 BF, or drilled rotors and my vettes stop on a dime. You must get the bearing endplay and rotor runout under 002"
With respect to this forum, this link will help you understand the runout issue and save me from typing it all again.

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125


GTR1999 your link and write up is excellent and very similar to the links I included, and exactly what I was stating. The majority or rotors need to be turned out of the box and then check total run out.
 
To clearify, I would not face the rotors. Turning them on the front hubs bolted on will work but turning the rear will not. The centerline of the axle will not be perpendicular to the rotor face. New rotors are parallel but not on center with the axle, no way they could be unless they are faced as one unit.
There is only .035 between new and trash on these rotors and some new ones are already 005 under out of the box. Trying to true a new rotor that is 009-010 out as I've seen many times will only cut the life of the rotor way down and still not gaurantee min runout. That is why I bolt them on and shim them to under 003". Lug nuts alone will not hold the runout fixed and will change every time a wheel is replaced. Riviting and facing like the factory did is not feasiable for most people and if the bearings were already replaced would require doing the job over again with new bearings.
Now if you can get the runout under 002 and don't want to bolt them on play around with torquing and releasing the lug nuts to see how much tolerence there is in them. If you find they stay under 005 all the time then you're ok and can use only the lug nuts.
 
GTR1999 your link and write up is excellent and very similar to the links I included, and exactly what I was stating. The majority or rotors need to be turned out of the box and then check total run out.

Please listen to Gary. His explanation and personal experience makes sense. GM and the others are giving generic experience not applicable to C2 or C3 Corvettes.

Assemble first, measure second, cut third if required. The sequence is what is important.
 

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