Need help with Changing a Caliper

[Tepot]

HI,

I have one caliper that is leaking. I will replace it with a new one soon.

Is there anybody that as a diagram to show me how to change this caliper myself.

I've never done any break work on a car so If anyone can help me it would be very appreciated.

could be easy or difficult. I wouldn't know.

I will have to buy a service book for my car. Will be very handy if I want to do the work myself on that car.

 

[JohnZ]

The procedure is shown step-by-step in the factory shop manual. I'd recommend you change both calipers and pads on that axle (front or rear), not just on one side; if one's leaking, the other side will soon follow. Not a good idea to have a new caliper and pads on one side and an old caliper and old pads on the other.

 

[Tepot]

The procedure is shown step-by-step in the factory shop manual. I'd recommend you change both calipers and pads on that axle (front or rear), not just on one side; if one's leaking, the other side will soon follow. Not a good idea to have a new caliper and pads on one side and an old caliper and old pads on the other.

Ok. I'll need the shop manual then. I thought maybe someone had those procedures from the manual already scanned. I will have to order a shop manual for my car

 

[GaryS]

You will find that this is a very simple job. The hardest part is getting a good bleed from the new caliper so that you get a good hard pedal. As has been suggested, go with the GM Service Manual. Very straight forward.

 

[Johan]

Some useful links can be found here:

http://wiki.corvettefaq.com/index.php?title=Brakes

 

[Mr. Chuck]

I have found that a good inspection of the brake lines and related mounting clips before starting work may well reveal additional parts needing replacement so you can have them on hand when you get started. Otherwise you will get delayed in getting the job done smoothly. Brake lines on older car, especially ones that have been worked on before may very well be burred, or have been cross threaded or otherwise damaged and should be replaced as well. You may also need some flare wrenches or have a good set of lock tite pliers, brake line fittings often become frozen and regular open end wrenches will only round off the nut fitting on the lines. Also replace any brake lines that are cracked, damaged, etc; they will only cause problems down the line. I have found that getting loaded (pads included) calipers really make life easier, also consider getting stainless steel (sleeved) calipers, they last a lot longer and some places like Auto Zone offer life time warranty calipers. I put a set on the front of my 81 several years ago and they are still working well. Did have one start leaking, Auto Zone replaced it with out issue.
You will need a helper when it comes time to bleed the brakes, one with car repair experience will help reduce trail and error delays.
Note: If the existing reservoir brake fluid is dark / dirty looking, you should purge the entire system as part of the job, (before installing new calipers), no point in contaminating them with old / dirty fluid. Extended bleeding of the brake lines until clear fluid is seen will serve to get the purge done, I find that bleeding the rear first works best. You may find, like my 81 it's rear calipers have two bleed fittings to get more of the air out Ps: Get a large size container of brake fluid, you will need it, especially if purging system, don't attempt to re-use old fluid in the system.

 

[AdvancedAutoCC]

The procedure is shown step-by-step in the factory shop manual. I'd recommend you change both calipers and pads on that axle (front or rear), not just on one side; if one's leaking, the other side will soon follow. Not a good idea to have a new caliper and pads on one side and an old caliper and old pads on the other.

ALWAYS replace calipers in pairs... Another suggestion is to avoid the "parts store" replacement type calipers and get a pair (or set) of VBP's O-ring style calipers - money well spent.