Need Help With Everything (lol)... Newbie 1984 crossfire

[toddadam]

Ok tried another one. It is right below where you would change the thermostat. I am going to try and get it out and see if we can do it that way too. But there is nothing hooked there at all. It has the white sticking out of it. The pic makes it look like its hooked up to something but its not.

let me see if I can get it out and will post a picture of it too.

Thanks again guys

Todd

 

[geekinavette]

Is this the part you're asking about? (yellow arrow)

 

[toddadam]

Is this the part you're asking about? (yellow arrow)

yes that is what i am talking about
Thanks

 

[geekinavette]

Yes that is where the CTS "should" be (though that doesn't look like a CTS).

To verify that the lone yellow & black wire connector you have hanging there is the CTS connector....check continuity between the yellow wire at that connector and pin 4 of the black connector on the ECM.

 

[toddadam]

ok will do. Also checking ecklers and corvettecentral trying to match it up.
hopefully service manual will be here tomorrow or next day. I think that will help too.

Anyone, have any ideas on the cluster blinking in and out?
I am pretty sure it needs redone or buy one but there are a few places that I can get em done and wanted to make sure someone here has used a certain place before I send this one off.

Thanks again for everything so far.

Todd

 

[geekinavette]

You should be able to get that CTS at just about any local parts store....ain't nothin special about it (just make sure it is the 2-wire version).

Before you go sending the cluster out....check grounds! If memory serves...there are two cluster ground points: one on the rear of the driver's side cylinder head, and one under the passenger's side door "kick" panel. There's also a ground point on the driver's side of the transmission bell housing...one of those points is sensor ground, I forget which is which...but heck check 'em all.

Make sure also that the fuse labeled "LCD" is not blown.

 

[toddadam]

You should be able to get that CTS at just about any local parts store....ain't nothin special about it (just make sure it is the 2-wire version).

Before you go sending the cluster out....check grounds! If memory serves...there are two cluster ground points: one on the rear of the driver's side cylinder head, and one under the passenger's side door "kick" panel. There's also a ground point on the driver's side of the transmission bell housing...one of those points is sensor ground, I forget which is which...but heck check 'em all.

Make sure also that the fuse labeled "LCD" is not blown.

Will check the grounds and fuse and pick up the sensor tomorrow and give it a whirl. Thanks again for all your help.


Todd

 

[Schrade]

Hello all,

I am new here and this is my first post. I have been reading alot of the forums and just cannot figure this thing out. This is my first vette 1984 crossfire.

The car had been sitting for 2 years when I got. It ran but would only get to about 40-50 just wouldnt go.(anyone else have that problem before)

We set the timing and put in a new fuel pump. That seemed to help for a day or two. Still didnt have any power but no backfiring, knocking etc.

Today I looked at the wiring diagram and they had the wires all messed up from the injectors. So I fixed that (lol i think)

Anyway, so the dash cluster blinks at me so I know I need a new one but will the rpm still work? I know the speedometer does just not the temp etc. Anyway if it does it idles at 9 (x100) goes in to gear kind a rough with the back wheels spinning a tad so I am pretty sure that is messed up. And then it wants to stall. I can get it going but when you give it gas it just well, doesnt do anything. Takes a second to go but still doesnt go (if that makes sense)

So I did the code thing and come up with 15, 33 and 34. I am putting in a new thermostat tomorrow because I thought it was running hot. I reset it by taking cable off of battery and let it run for about 15 minutes but when I redid the codes it only gave me a 15 this time.

I think from what I read it could be a vacuum leak but to be honest I dont know where to start. I ordered the factory services manuals today so I know that will help.

Anyway, I know this is alot for 1 post but I am new and have no idea where to go from here. Thanks for all your help and any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Todd

Stop buying parts IMMEDIATELY. You don't throw away a part unless they TEST bad. Good job getting the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. Next thing is a multimeter. You HAVE TO have one.

Your 2 codes didn't 'go away'. Stuff doesn't 'go away' by itself. They did not come back up, because a cold motor does not go closed loop, and test all the circuits, EXCEPT some functions, like your temp sensor, which could have a cut wire, and register a DTC 15 RIGHT AWAY.

Vacuum leak detection is not tough. Search my posts here for 'vacuum leak', and follow the procedure to the letter.

Don't 'listen' to friends, mechanics, etc. Get them to SHOW you.

Just took some with my phone.

Take pics of EVERYTHING and post them. Photo-documented repair and maintenance in a public forum increases the car's value, helps yourself at re-assembly, and other forums members.

 

[toddadam]

Got a multimeter. Havent received the service manual yet. Hoping it will be here monday. Will test everything and see what we find out.

Thanks again for everyones help and will keep you posted.

Todd

 

[vigman]

Wires.. we don't need no stinkin wires

Corvette Action Center Knowledgebase :: 1984: Electrical Schematics.

Maybe today you can solve the ECM temp sender issue

 

[vigman]

You want 84ecmsensors.jpg

Here's the deal...
ASSUMING THAT BLACK & YELLOW PAIR IN YOUR PIX ARE THESE WIRES

Pin 4 of the ECM ( yellow small wire ) goes to one end of that sender connector in your pix... the black wire goes to ground...

Does the wire in your picture reach that sender on the block??

It looks like your plug is kinda there.. I would need a pix of the face..

Anyway.. take some lime away.. spray a bit on both mating ends ( gets rid of corrosion ) .. do not leave it on for to long.. flush it out with contact cleaner or carb cleaner... mate the two back... take out the ECM fuse for 5 minutes

( or disconnect the battery ) and bada bing.. you should be good


Vig~

 

[toddadam]

Thanks for the link to the diagrams. Should help me out tomorrow. Will also test the plug as well. I know the actual clip on part of the plug is missing however. So I need the new "pigtail" or whatever you call it that plugs into the coolant temp sensor. Will try to find one tonight. If you guys know where I can get one please let me know or past the link. Thanks again

Todd

 

[geekinavette]

AutoZone.com | | Coolant Temperature Sensor | COOLANT TEMP SENSOR

15 bucks and it comes with the "pigtail". No brainer.

Be aware that when you remove the old sensor that it sits in a coolant passage...be quick or it'll make a heckuva mess!

 

[toddadam]

Picking it up today...Thanks

Todd

 

[toddadam]

got the sensor and also received my service manuals today. The regular one and the supplemental electrical one. I guess it is time to get to work...lol

Thanks

 

[toddadam]

Hey guys. Replaced the sensor. Ran the car about an hour and the check engine light did not come on. So we are getting somewhere.

When you hit the gas it still seems to bog down and then will get going. So pretty sure I had a vacuum leak. I sat down and started reading the manual and noticed some seals that said were suppossed to be around the location where the air cleaner assembly sits down on the injector/throttle body. Looked at the car and nothing there. So need to find that i guess and also the service manual calls this a heat stove pipe. On the driver side there is a pipe coming out that looks like it would run to the air cleaner assembly. Did some research and couldnt find it searching for heat stove pipe. Anyway, I did find on ecklers a flex pipe that is supposed to fit it. And also found a stainless steel one.

Can someone tell me what it really does and does it have to be a certain type hose/pipe? I mean can you just buy the flex hose and run it or does it have to be a certain material. I really dont know what it does but want to make sure I get the right thing.

Anyway, thanks again for your replies and help on this and I will look over the manual and see what else is missing...lol

I did find a air cleaner to throttle body gasket on ecklers and also on a few part store sites. Just wanted to make sure since the manual said "seal" that it is the same thing and whether it goes around the outer part of the throttle bodies or does the air cleaner sit down on the throttle body and the seal goes in that way.

And one more thing (i am tired sorry for rambling) Should the air filter be sealed to the air cleaner top? Looks like it may have been at one time and read it that it should but wasnt sure if that made a big difference or not.

Ok that is it for now and will post tomorrow if I get anything done.

Thanks again

Todd

 

[vigman]

Hot air riser

When the car is cold...
heat from the exhaust manifold goes up that pipe to help combustion as the car warms up, there is a bi metal valve that controls a flapper valve ( Vac motor ) that allow it to open up and draw cold air in...

 

[geekinavette]

^^^ what Vig. said. There is nothing special about that piece of tubing...it is just a metal flex pipe.

Yes there is a gasket that sits on top of each throttle body, just a paper gasket nothing special, you could easily make one out of gasket material. There is also a rubber seal on the top half of the air cleaner housing that seals the housing to the filter. Neither of these are going to cause the hesitation you describe...however what will cause that is either imbalanced throttle bodies and/or worn throttle shaft "holes" (where the throttle shaft goes through the throttle body housing). You can see just how worn those holes are just by seeing how much movement there is where the throttle shafts go through the throttle body. If it has a noticeable amount of play, then you'll need to have bushings installed and re-synchronize the throttle bodies.

 

[toddadam]

Ok, today I went ahead and changed the plugs. late last night I started the car in the garage and saw a spark jumping from one wire so I just replaced them all. Now i will check the timing tomorrow since if this was happening when timing was originally set then it may be off.

The pipe, I will jsut get the flex pipe and put it on even though it may not fix the problem but will do so anyway.

bought those paper gaskets for like 2 bucks at carquest and put them on. Do not have that seal you are talking about "geekinavette" Is this worth replacing though. If so what is it called...lol.

Ok now, after putting the new wires on, I ran the car and let it run for about 10 mins and the check engine light come on with a code of "44" Lean exhaust indication. Never had this one yet...lol

I have the service manuals now and it talks about fuel pressure, oxygen sensor, egr, map sensor, etc. I am going to make sure the timing is right and then run it again tomorrow to see if i get the same code.

Would a bad o2 sensor cause the issue with the problem I have been having? Anyway, thanks again for all your guys help and will run everything tomorrow and if need be run the diagnostic check for the code if still there.

I will also check the "holes" tomorrow...If I find out what I am supposed to be looking at...lol

Anyway, will let you know tomorrow what the status is. Just want to get this baby running right..

Thanks again for everyones help on this.

Todd

 

[vigman]

Running lean....

You still have a vac leak somewhere.. check for a hissing sound around or under the air filter when you are running.. Chase & replace each vac hose ONE AT A TIME!
Make SURE you inspect all fittings with the Air cleaner off. ( Not running )

Make sure you tighten the throttle body back down ( snug, not crush ).

Any small pipe that goes no where.. plug it

If your to lean the first thing that will go are the CATS....

MUY EXPENSIVE~

Vig~

KEEP GOING YOUR DOING GREAT!