New brake rotor question

[So Bay Vetter]

I'm taking a performance driving course next week so I checked my brake pads to see what I had left. I have about 3/4 on the pads but my rotors, especially the back ones have some nasty groves and need to be turned or replaced. If I do that without installing new pads will the old pads chew up the new rotors?

 

[SPANISHVETTS]

I wouldn’t think so but you can have the pads ground smooth while you are having the rotors turned. I would not put a grooved pad back on a vehicle.

I have seen some good deals on eBay for hi-performance slotted rotors and ceramic pads. This might work out cheaper than having the old ones turned.

 

[Robertwav1]

How's the stopping power feel? Usually you can tell when there is a problem with the brakes...car will seem hard to stop. Sometimes it may come so gradual that you might not notice it. I heard those ceramic pads are worth the cost....cuts way down on brake dust? Does it eliminate it? Rotors today suck...not the same steel it used to be IMO. They seem to tear up on all cars. I guess some of those semi metallic pads don't help either.

 

[Edmond]

Elaine had bought a set of those slotted/drilled rotors for her cars. I forgot what she paid but it was a great deal from what I recall.

 

[tlong]

I'll chime in. Slotted and drilled rotors are for looks, and can produce a bit of slight 'grind' on application. Kind of race car feel. They cool off quick for extreme braking. Smooth are fine for regular use. You really shouldn't cut a rotor. New ones are pretty reasonable.

Get ceramic pads. They hardly dust and get better with heat. if you want to splurge install braided stainless steel lines. They make a difference in pedal feel, more linear. if I had to do again I believe cryo'd stockers would be the way to go.

 

[GS Diva]

I did get a great deal on the drilled/slotted rotors from Sport Brakes!! $249 for a set of 4 plus $30 shipping. Their site is www.sportbrakes.com but it's easier and faster to call them at 972-620-9311 or info@sportbrakes.com.

Elaine

 

[c4cruiser]

I'll chime in. Slotted and drilled rotors are for looks, and can produce a bit of slight 'grind' on application. Kind of race car feel. They cool off quick for extreme braking. Smooth are fine for regular use. You really shouldn't cut a rotor. New ones are pretty reasonable.

Get ceramic pads. They hardly dust and get better with heat. if you want to splurge install braided stainless steel lines. They make a difference in pedal feel, more linear. if I had to do again I believe cryo'd stockers would be the way to go.

I'll go along with the slotted/drilled rotors being suitable for street use. Most of the drilled rotors available have the holes drilled after the rotor is cast. Extreme heat from braking like you encounter during track days will cause cracking around the holes as the drilling weakens the casting. That may cause the rotor to fail at the point when you really need the brakes to work.

There are good high performance drilled and slotted rotors available but expect to pay as much as $500 per axle! These are much more suitable for frequent track use but they will still wear out.

Rear stock rotors are relatively inexpensive (around $75 per pair) and would be worth changing along with new pads. Front stock-style rotors can run about $100 a pair. I would upgrade to a performance style pad like Performance Friction Z pads, EBC Greenstuff or Hawk HPS. You may see increased dusting especially with the Hawk pads, but there wil be a noticable increase in braking performance.

At the same time, you should do a complete flush of the brake fluid (most schools will check brake fluid). Use a good quality DOT3 or DOT4 fluid. Castrol LMA or Ford HD Motorcraft fluid will work fine. It will take about a quart of fluid to do.

I use inexpensive stock rotors for track days and just toss them when they show signs of grooving or warping.