New engine.. to many choices.. not enough $$$

[vigman]

So I've looked at all options from Hi $$$$ Big block to David Visal ( this guy has a KILLER BOOK) junk yard queens and everything in the middle.

No Big Block
No 373 or up strokers

( need money for paint, interior etc.)

350/350 is the target motor. that looks like a stocker ( L-82 ) Cars a stick! Do not want to change out the flywheel ( it was NEW and I have a Lakewood scattersheild & heavy duty clutch linkage).

Power band from off idle to 4.5K

9.5 to 1 comp

Forged Crank

4 bolt main

I know I want a roller cam & some form of roller rocker.( open to suggestions here )
Trying to keep my L-82 stock covers.

I know I want Edlebrock aluminum heads. but will paint em Orange (heheheheh)
2.02 intake 1.6 ex around 64cc

When things are done.. I want a low rear end ratio for highway cruzin'. 292 ish,

I'm going with a CARB.. probably Holley 650
Vac secondary, electric choke.

I'll have to breakdown & buy the HEI tach drive distrib.Will the chrome sheild for the ignition still fit with HEI? Or what kits to convert the stock distrib to some form of high output ignition ( without bells & whistles) and no crank drive sensors.

Going to stay with the Rams horn manifolds
Car has AC do not want to doodle with header brackets.

So.. the GM crate short block is about
1350 ish I don't think I can build a better one cheaper ( but you can chime in here).

I'm just not 100% sure on the Cam for 1

Not sure about intake ( for clearance reasons) I have an Edlebrock RPM preformer but that looks to tall for my 73 even with the stock aircleaner.

So that's where we are at.....

Any thought's?

Mike

 

[69vettester]

Not sure about intake ( for clearance reasons) I have an Edlebrock RPM preformer but that looks to tall for my 73 even with the stock aircleaner.

Any thought's?

Mike

Vigman
Sounds Like a great plan to me!
I got some info about the intake...
Ive heard youll have trouble closing the hood with the performer RPM , But not the performer.
I suggest get the Performer RPM and a dropbase aircleaner canister. This will compensate for the added height of the RPM.
You may have some clearance problems with the choke and fuel line in. But the dropbase makers consider this, and there are other simple work arounds as well.

Otherwise The Performer should work just fine with your size motor and no mods necessary.
Hope this helps..
Tom

 

[wolf_walker]

I have wondered about the intake deal also. I'd hate to have to ditch the cowl induction setup for the sake of a higher rise intake.

 

[1979toy]

It's cheaper to buy a new motor than rebuild your block. You will also have the advantage of a warrenty. The GM ZZ4 motor will fit your desires. Price in the latest Jeg's catalog is 3499.00. Building your motor with a roller cam is going to set you back close to 1000.00 by itself. When you toss in the aluminum heads it becomes another 950.00 to 1250.00 higher, and you still haven't touched the bottom end!
For a motor that you want to have a powerband from idle to 4500 RPM you could downsize a lot of these plans. 2.02 intakes won't do much, if any, more in the RPM range that you plan to operate. They will even hurt the torque output at idle (you'll have to make dyno runs to see it though). Aluminum heads will let you have more compression but you don't need that in the RPM range you're looking at. Aluminum will also have to have anti-seize put on all hardware without fail. If you forget and install a bolt or spark plug dry when you take it out you get to practice installing heli-coil kits.
The only reason that I would spend the time and money building your current motor is if it is a numbers matching block.

 

[80convertible]

I have an article in "Engine Masters" where they took a GM stock service replacement and built it up to over 350hp. I too need a rebuild or replacement. I think I may order the base GM crate engine with 250hp. Then install a new cam and my vortec heads, intake, distributor, water pump etc... This gets me a brand new engine with all the goodies off my current engine for around $1,500. Now thats cheap:eek

Regards,

Jim

 

[vigman]

Great.. another varible

My neighbor ( who is moving ) has a HOT ( no not stolen ) 65 327 Camaro engine, Double hump heads, nice cam ( no specs but I've driven the car before) it HAULS A$$.. complete engine With a trick B&M turbo 400 + engine stand and box of chrome goodies $350.00


NOW WHAT DO I DO?

Mike

 

[1979toy]

NOW WHAT DO I DO?

Make room in your garage?

 

[rpounds]

Now what do you do? Give me his address . . . I can be there in less than an hour . . .

 

[vigman]

I bought it.......

TADA, made it in between rain storms!

 

[vigman]

Now all I need to know

Whats this...cept for a big red mess?

 

[Yoda]

Re: Great.. another varible

... . . . . . .Double hump heads, nice cam ( no specs.. . .) . ... complete engine With a trick B&M turbo 400 + engine stand and box of chrome goodies $350.00

NOW WHAT DO I DO?
Mike

I'm calling the Cops... Thief... :J nice haul *Vig*.. (drooling as I type) :Twist

Bud

*I won't give the Cops your real name..

 

[Jack]

HEI & Tach options

/VIGMAN ... I'll have to breakdown & buy the HEI tach drive distrib.Will the chrome sheild for the ignition still fit with HEI? Or what kits to convert the stock distrib to some form of high output ignition ( without bells & whistles) and no crank drive sensors.

Mike:
Here's something to consider regarding an HEI upgrade. The tach drive HEI costs about $500 right?. You could save some bucks for roller this or aluminum that by swapping out your tachometer. You can get a Factory GM electronic tachometer from a 75 or 76 or 77 vette and replace your mechanical tachometer ... it'll fit right in your dash. Then you can run virtually any HEI from virtually any chevy V8 ... Also, the face from your mechanical tachometer can be readily swapped out with the one from the 75-77 gage ... so you can retain stock look of gages ... some years look a bit different than others. I will do this very procedure with my 71. You don't get something for nothing ... to swap the tach you have to disassemble much of the driver side dash.

I will run a factory GM vacuum advance HEI distributor along with an electronic tach from a 75-77 vette. In my case, I will gut the HEI of its module ... mating the HEI to an MSD CD ignition amp & external coil. Unless you really WANT to ... there's no requirement to do the MSD thing. A stock HEI is good to about 4500 rpm ... one with a performance coil & module is good to about 7500 rpm ... not likely you'll spend much time above 6500. I'll probably never see more than 6300 ... if that much!

I acquired a good used electronic tach from a 75 vette for about $50. Good used vacuum advance NON-computer HEI can be had for as little as $25. Summit/Jegs sell Accel's pn 9107 ... a copy of a GM vac advance, NON-computer HEI ... complete with hot coil & performance module ... NEW & ready to run ... for about $140. For a street car with no computer/sensors ... stick with a distributor having a vacuum advance. Don't hold me to it verbatim ... but chevy used vac advance NON-computer HEI's in V8s from about 1975 through about 1985.

Most if not all of your stock chrome ignition shielding will not fit with an HEI. In lieu of such external shielding ... Use a good grade of spark plug wire that has a spiral or helical conductive core made of fine gage wire. DO NOT use solid-core sp wires ... steer clear of graphite-only core sp wires.

Coupled with a hotter coil & good sp wires... a great many folk have been pleased with a Pertronix kit (that eliminated points from their old distributor). Sorry for the book ... but hope this helps.
JACK:gap