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New owner questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dr. J
  • Start date Start date
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Dr. J

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Hi Everyone,

Am a new proud owner 66 convertable 327/300, 4-sp, no power options. Intend to drive and enjoy this vette.

Am considering enabling the fast steer option. Anyone out there comment on results, can you still turn the wheel?

If I were to add power steering from Stainless Steel brake inc. would I be unable to use the fast steer option?

To attempt to reduce some steering play can I adjust only the lash screw or must I attempt to adjust the worm bearing as well?

Now that it is cold any ideas for a suddenly noisy tach cable and or guage?

Am interested in enhancing her cornering capability. Any experience with handling inprovements such as polyurethane bushings, ect.

I know it's alot of questions, I'm an inquisitive kind of guy.
 
Welcome to :CAC Dr J.







Hope you enjoy your new ride. While I can't answer your questions, undoubtedly our fellow CAC members will chime in shortly.

Doc
 
Welcome and good luck with the car I am sorry I also dont have your answers
 
I have PS on mine and I'm almost positive it's set to fast... Let me tell ya... The fast is way to fast when you get loose with PS. Loose is an understatement with my PS I can almost spin mine on a whim. It doesn't help that I have a lot of preload in the rear...Dave..
 
Congrats on the "new" Vette.
Some Answers........

The fast steer position will increase the steering effort quite noticibly. How good is your upper body strength? You'll need an alignment after the change also.

Power steering uses the fast steer position only, otherwise the piston tries to extend too far and the seals blow out.

To reduce the steering play, you can first try the lash adjustment. Worked for me without messing with the worm adjustment.

A noisy tach cable either needs new dry lubricant (NOT WD-40 or lithium grease) or replacement.

I haven't experimented with any handling enhancements, as my car outhandles anything I've owned in the past and is good enough for me.
 
Subfixer has it right. the steering will also be harder if you have wider tires. the car came with 7.75x 15 - equivalent to 195x75r15 radials. The wider you go, the more steering effort it takes, and the easier it is to hydroplane in the rain, rip the front fenders while pulling into driveways, and get park cable bracket interference at the rear.

Poly bushings are great for performance. Are you going racing of autocrossing? Rubber bushings are easier on the car and on your teeth. The only poly bushings on my car are the Vette Brake adjustable strut rods. They come with poly, and with a recomendation from the manufacturer to add some serious welds to the diff mount plate - due to the high shock forces that the poly bushings transmit.
 
If your car isn't on radials now you will be amazed at the difference just that makes. If the rest of your suspension, bushings and shocks are in good shape your car will corner quite well.

Both my '65 convertible small block and my '67 coupe big block had manual steering with the rod ends in the fast steering holes. Both were on 205 radials. You just learn to let the car roll a little before turning the wheel. Nothing you can't live with. I wouldn't go any bigger than 205s unless you are going to a super low profile tire with a reduced diameter to avoid fender lip damage but those look goofy on a mid year. Some 16s and 17s look good if you keep the tire diameter and tread width and also the wheel width and offset close to the 205/15 radials specs or less.

Tom
 
They have it correct; the fast position is used on power steering. I just installed a power steering system from Paragon Reproductions and I still have it set to the 'slower' ratio. I'm a little hesitant to go to the fast setting because as they said it's going to be touchy. It's great now and I can't imagine it being any quicker. I'l probably try it and see.

As far as improving the handling: good tires, new shocks and a larger front sway bar. Everyone I have talked to say not to use a rear bar at all. The testing shows increasing the front size and decreasing the rear size gains control to a point where no rear bar is best.

I have a complete power steering setup for sale if you are interested. I purchased it on eBay after I had ordered the Paragon setup. Everything is new except for the control valve. That includes new pump, hoses, brackets, pulleys, bolts and pump brackets. I will sell it for half of a new kit. Drop me a PM.

Thanks
 
Dr. J said:
Hi Everyone,

Am a new proud owner 66 convertable 327/300, 4-sp, no power options. Intend to drive and enjoy this vette.

Am considering enabling the fast steer option. Anyone out there comment on results, can you still turn the wheel?

If I were to add power steering from Stainless Steel brake inc. would I be unable to use the fast steer option?

To attempt to reduce some steering play can I adjust only the lash screw or must I attempt to adjust the worm bearing as well?

Now that it is cold any ideas for a suddenly noisy tach cable and or guage?

Am interested in enhancing her cornering capability. Any experience with handling inprovements such as polyurethane bushings, ect.

I know it's alot of questions, I'm an inquisitive kind of guy.

Dr. J...

Check your flexible coupling on the steering shaft just above the steering box as they are notorious for a lot of slop. You can get a new one for under $15 from most suppliers and it will make a world of difference in the play.

As far as the fast steering setting, do it! I have mine on fast and large tires to boot and I can still steer fairly easily when rolling slightly - a little tougher when standing still but still possible.
 
67HEAVEN said:
I'm afraid that Dr. J. is unlikely to see the latest response.

Dr. J
New Member
Last Activity: 11-18-03 08:59 AM



Come back to us Dr. J. :gap

Took me a few to figure this one out :hb but I got it. ;LOL ;LOL ;LOL
 

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