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New version(?) of Vette won't start problem

The hunt is still on

So I would remove the connectors & re seat em.....

Do you have a helper?


Remove gas cap... have somebody turn the key on... do you hear the pump wind up?


If not... when you jump the red & orange on the oil pressure switch... does the pump wind up then?


Still crank but no fire right?

Still No spark?

Your 100% sure on that right?

You have an OLD plug that you are grounding to the block?

I'm thinking Coil.... Oh.. where the Red wire goes in... there is a connector BEHIND that one ( three pin ) make sure that's seated.


I would get ready to mark your wires.. to remove the cap and start checkin things out
in there.

And just for giggles
remove the TACH line ( White wire )

If the Vats is unhappy it will throw a code 46


We need to get spark happening next...

Vig!
 
Thinking out loud

Next to the brake booster there is a single Tan/ Black wire with a connector..... open this connector up.

This sets you in "Timing mode" and bypasses part of the ECM in reguards to timing ( spark firing)

Vig!
 
Check the following

Put the clip of the test light on POSITIVE

And probe the fuel injector lines Blk/Pink 1,3,5,7

AND Blk/Green
2,4,6,8

These are the GROUND sides of the injectors

If the ECM is controlling the injectors

And the PINK/Black is HOT....

As you crank your test light should go BLINK BLINK



Vig!
 
Did I tell you the guy that owned this vette before died?

I think it is haunted!! LOL He doesn"t want me to drive it. Just a theory-seems to be as good as any I have had so far.

OK, replaced distrib cap, rotor and coil. No change still no spark. Would have done control module but they did not have any and it was too late to go to another store.

One thing to mention. You (Vigman) said in an earlier message that I would get a 46 code with the tach wire undone. I am not, as a matter of fact with the distrib cap all the way off I continue to get 12 codes telling me all is well (but I know better!).

Does this seem unusual?
 
46 means VATS is unhappy KEN HELP HERE!!!!

You will get a 43 ( I think ) if the timing connector is disconnected.

The engine has to roll at least 500 rev's before a code can set.. it has to get out of the START mode before it can monitor things.

UNLESS it see's something missing.... (E.g MAF unplugged)



This is really BIZARRE.....

Ok lets go down another path.... since you changed cap & rotor ( assuming a GOOD coil is in there)


Going back to the 8 ohm ground

What reading do you get with the leads on your meter touching.... hopefully 0


Now measure your Batt Negative to block still O....?


I want you to DOUBLE check ( OK TRIPLE )
your wiring WITH the test light ( in the area's you replaced )

AND CHECK THE FRAME GROUND.....

Braid wire from frame to block
AND
Black wire( small from battery ) to frame rail

Clean em..... re do em

( check previous post... getting grounded)

This is FUNKY STUFF......

Back to spark.......

Leave the tan wire disconnected....

Do you have access to an automotive DWELL meter... In the days of points it would allow you to set the GAP on the fly
(engine running)

The TACH output on the distrib is the closest thing to points your gonna get.

Hook the Dwell meter.. to the tach line
Crank the car
You should get meter deflection around 35 degrees... If you are ... great

If you DONT that means your Ign module or the pick up coil is TOAST.

The TAC line is what GROUNDS the low side of the coil, everytime the line goes low.. the coil soaks.. when you open things UP....... SPARK.

If you do not have a dwell meter use the test light..... hook the clip lead line to Batt+

and get the tip of the light to the tach line.

Blink....Blink....Blink....Blink....

If it blinks and NO SPARK it's the coil

No blink....... module or pick up coil.

See if you can have a member ( Like KEN ) scan you Chart ( C-4a) in the factory manual
Page 6e3-C4-5 in the 88 book ( should be same in your year)




Now I gotta ask this...
(STOOPID QUESTION)

When you crank the rotor DOES turn in the distrib... right????

I had one ( guy at the auto parts store ) that never checked this his drift pin had sheared from the distrib gear.. from
( Now get this ) trying to turn his engine over with the distrib... using BIG pipe wrench.

Not saying YOU did this... but in the RARE case the the ROTOR gets JAMMED in the cap

SOMETIMES the pin breaks.

If it turns Cool..... grab it and with some MILD torque ( engine stopped ) twist it... you will get a LITTLE gear play.. but no more motion than that.

Still thinking about things.... this is bothersome..... you SHOULD be running by now.


Vig!
 
Think it could be my gas cap?

Cause that's the only thing left I have not replaced!!! (LOL)

My next call is going to be for an exorcism (no offense to anyone-just trying to find some humor in all this.)

Anyway, pulled module to replace it and noticed a small brown plastic piece down on the screen inside the distrib by shaft. Not sure but may be part of pick-up coil so I have got another and am working on that. FYI had module checked again at another store-and checked out fine. Would have bought one but not in stock. I will do pick up coil and check it-if it does not work I will track down module and start tests form you last post.

Yes rotor does trun when I crank it-it is in a difernt position everytime I take the cap off (several times).

Will get back with info later this PM

Vigman thanks for the support
 
sigh

let say the rotor and the cap have really bad white stuff on them


the car will still fire up, but will just run crappy
and the chances of all cap contacts being fualty are a million to one

my 85 gets alot of stuff collected on it,, can't think of the name righ tnow,,, on waht its called,, when the white stuff collects
but,, anyways it gets bad and doenst keep me from starting the car at all


the problem must lie in coil, or ICM

which i have been talkign to tuck on yahoo now, and we figure it out to be his pick up coil,, which i didn't even know what that was until now
 

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