Newbee owner C4 or C3, looking for checklist, prevent me for purchasing a lemon.

[ReggieD]

I started out looking for a nice C3. I am looking to purchased my first vette. My reason is I am afraid of the electronics involved with the C4s. Today I went to the vette show at the Varsity in Atlanta.
Now I have my eyes on the C4s. I need some help knowing how to purchase a good C4. Can someone send me a checklist of things to look for so I do not get screwed. I test drove a 1988 and I was shock with the performance. These cars are nice. Can someone help me thru the process of purchasing a nice C4. My budget is $10,000.00 total. What are the pros and cons on this series, what is the best year for a newbee. What models/items do I want to stay away from. I have a very good background on electrical stuff for car. I love installing gadgets.
I am a little better than average on auto repair. Lead me to the right websites to read about C4s.

 

[WhalePirot]

the right websites

Welcome to .

This is it, pal. The best (Thanks, Rob et al.)

You should be able to find a nice car, with some reserve cash left for the fix-its. Take your time and make a biz decision, if you can. (I couldn't, but.....). As the C-4 evolved, it improved in probably all areas. I don't believe the electronics are any more sophisticated than most other cars today, but I find the digital dash a minus and not all that accurate. They can be exchanged for $2-300 and are rather easy to R&R.

Ensure you use a digital VOM, BTW, to protect the componentry in ANY late model car. The schematics are available, as are the repair manuals, from Helm and other sources. None are outstanding , IMHO, but you sound able to get around just fine. Much of the car is rather simple circuitry. The biggest issue I have had is the cheap plastic and dealer mechanics with power tools.

I'd wait for summer to progress as prices will fall due to seasons. My opinion on the economic outlook is not encouraging, either, so patience may payoff more.

The rest of the decison comes down to that involved in any used car purchase. A truly fine car shows from many feet away. Upon closer inspection, they look better and better.

Maintenance records and WHO owned and drove it have double import with any high performance car.

Your search should be fun. I hope you find a cherry, privately owned car, from an owner who wants to sell his/her baby to someone who will keep her well tended; all for a song.
mike

 

[vader86]

C3s are easy to work on, but things break more often.
C4s break less often, but can be a real pain to figure out exactly what the problem is, and the parts are really expensive in most cases.

If i had my pick of L98 cars in your price range, id go for a 89 Z51 6speed.

Ask about transmission service, especially if its 4+3 manual.
Ask about any parts that have been replaced, wheel bearings, AC compressor, Alternator, shocks.
Be mindful of noises, but do realize that squeaks are common in the interior, its just a problem unique to C4s.
Also, the 3.07 rear gear is optimum for L98, try to get that. (RPO is G44)
Leather problems with the seats are very common, it doesnt last very long, so dont expect too much there.

Aluminum heads started in late 86, doubtful that youll find one of those though.
87 got the roller cam, Id rather have that so I didnt have to modify the block for a roller.
88 got better AL heads, automatic transmission was upgraded to 30 spline.
89 got the 6 speed tranny optional
90 got a different interior i think, switched to speed density
91 got a updated body

 

[78SilvAnniv]

Sorry we missed you, Reggie!

I'm sorry we didn't get to meet with you yesterday but I am glad that you attended.

If you click on the "Learning Center" tab above, there is a Corvette Buyers Checklist. It is a little overkill, but it ensures that you won't forget to look at or ask that important question.
Heidi

Did you see my 78?

 

[Mad-Mic]

87 and up should be a good choice. depending on if you want a stick or auto. if you want a stick 89 and up comes with the 6 speed which seems to be more durable with less breakage. 88 and up came with 17 inch wheels. IMO they look better than the old 16 inch wheels.

you should be able to find a nice clean 50k and lower car for 10k.

when test driving these cars the u joint slop takes alittle time to get used too. when around 40 mph when you left off the gas and barely step back into it sometimes the car will "clunk" this is natural.

do the usual checks. check the oil to see if it's black and smelled burned. wipe the dip stick to see if the dip stick is stained. this means the oil was not changed at 3k miles reguarly. if it's an auto do the same with the trans stick. smell it, look at it , and feel it.

when you smell it it shouldnt smell burnt. when you look at it it shouldn't be brown. when you rub your finger down the trans stick you shouldn't feel metal in it.

make sure the car brakes true and straight. look for uneven wear on the tires. just look for obvious things like with any other car you would buy and you should be fine. don't be scared to drive it like you stole it to make sure it is up to par on performance. if you want an automatic car go thru the gears manually and while leaving it in auto OD mode. everything should be nice and tight. make sure the car gets warm over 150 degrees water temp before you drive it.

good luck!

 

[DaveW]

Here is a check list that Jane ann on here passed to me, hope it helps..


http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/buying.html

 

[So Bay Vetter]

I put this in another recent post but if you're new at this, it bears repeating:

Buying a Vette and affording a Vette are two different things - be willing to pony up a grand or two a year to keep it running and looking good (especially a C4!) and don't kid yourself; it WILL cost that much, no matter how nice it looks. But, to quote Tommy Lee Jones in Men In Black; "Oh yea . . . it's worth it . . .!"

Take the time to read as many posts as you can. You'll get a better Idea of what's going on with various years. There are some specific querks depending on model year and milage. This is the best place to educate yourself on that stuff. When you find one, be sure to get the factory service manuals and an OBD code scanner. If you're mechanically inclined and can understand and do a lot of your own work, you're way ahead of the game!
Good luck and "oh yea . . . it's worth it!!"

 

[JimBobC4]

Also, 4 different engines are in the C4 ( excluding Zr-1's)

The Crossfire injected 1984

The L98 in all its forms from 1985 to 1991 ( lots of torque, not much for top end RPMS)

The LT-1 from 1992 to 1996, revs really good, not quite as much punch down low like an L98 car. Still an iron block with aluminum head though.


and (to me) the top of the heap is a manually shifted 1996 car with an LT-4.

I would try to drive each one ( L98 and Lt-1\4) and see which one suited my driving style. Also, the interior was changed in in the later cars.

Take your time, dont make the mistake of falling in love with the first pretty face you run across.

One last item, these are incredible cars, but like any other high output automobile ( Ferrari, Porsche, Vette, Lambo etc.) they break more often than say ... a Honda.
It stands to reason if the car is asked to do more, it uses itself up faster.


Keep that in mind.

 

[DaveW]

Also i have a acct with carfax until the 15th, so if you need one, or anyone needs one, just shoot me the vin Via email mine is : ItsmeDW(AT)verizon.net , and ill email it to you.