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No electrical power

jbonifas

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2001
Messages
94
Location
Shreveport, LA
Corvette
1981 silver/blue: two tone
Got a problem. Changed the starter several weeks ago with no problem. Went cruising, no problem. Went to back it out of the garage the next day and the starter tried to engage, then lost all power. Checked the battery and cable, seem to be ok. messed with the starter and ground, still no power anywhere. Haven't checked continuity of the power cables yet, wanted to see if someone can help me with this. Can the starter/solinoid be so bad that I can't even get the lights to work. Anything I can check? Any fuse or something somewhere?
Help!
 
Ther are 2 fusable links that connect to the starter. You should check your red wire connections that go to the starter post for continuity. You may just have a loose connection at the starter.
 
Thanks, I checked the starter connections, they look ok. Fusable links? Where are they?
 
I not exactly sure, but I think they are on the wires that come off the starter,somewhere around the starter area.
 
In most C3 harnesses, if they are still OE, your fuesable links connect either at the starter or at the horn relay.

I just replaced two of them on my 71---the ones that connect down at the starter. They had not fused but, after 34 years, one of them had developed some insulation problems, so I replaced both on "G.P.".
 
Well, It appears that I have a large voltage drain somewhere. I checked the fusable links and they appear ok, have continuity. Took the starter out and had it checked, it was ok, or at least turned on their machine. Took the battery and it also checked ok.

When I check the starter voltage, it begins at about 1.5 volts and increases slowly to 12.4V. Like there is some sort of coil or capacitor charging. I open the door and the interior light comes on and it drops at the starter to about 10.5V. Close the door and it slowly increases back to 12.4V. I put the key in and turn it on and it drops to 1.4V with the interior light going off and nothing else registering.
What can I check on the solinoid to see if there is some sort of sort or what reading should I get on resistance etc?
The positive cable on the battery connects to the starter, along with the two red wires that have the fusible links. I have another red wire that connects to the solinoid. There are actually two terminals on the solinoid, one that has a "B" and the other "S". I had it connected the same way for several weeks without a problem, I believe it is on the "B".
Still looking for some advice!!
 
You're reading ghost voltage at the starter. Check your connections again at the battery, bat neg to ground under the car, neg from frame to engine. Do the voltage checks again starting at the battery. I have seen cables lose connection inside the terminals. Pierce the cables a couple of inches from the battery terminals and check voltage there.


Mike
 
Thanks Mike. I checked the checked the voltage a few inches from the terminal and it was ok on both the negative and positive leads. I cleaned the ground cable at the frame and got a little further. Was able to open the door and turn the radio on with the key in accessory. I turned the lights on and everything went off. I tried to use a charger connected and it drained it also.
 
When you turned on the lights and the power dropped, where were you checking it?

Mike
 
At the starter. I checked it at the starter and it was building up voltage, I checked it at the battery and it was still 12.2 volts and 12.2 when I pierced it on the cable.
 
You think I can run jumper cables from the battery to ground and starter and bypass the cables to see if it is the cable? Maybe ground first then Positive?

It still may be those fusible links, not sure if just having continuity is good enough. Maybe I can just solder these together?
 
ok let's try this. Turn on the headlites and turn the ign to run position. Check both batt cables at the battery and see if they are getting warm/hot. Check the two smaller wires at the alternator for warm/hot. If they aren't then check voltages again. Start at the battery. If you still have 12 volts at the battery then get a long jumper wire. Keep the ground connected from your voltmeter to the battery neg used the jumper wire. Check for 12 volts at the starter, the red wire on the alt, and the pink wire to the Hei distributor. These are three seperate circuits. If you have low voltage at the starter then the other two should be the same. This would be a bad pos cable. If you have 12 volts on all three then you have a ground problem. If any of the three are different you have a fuse link problem. My guess is you might have a bad battery or connection. Be sure to have a lot of load when checking the battery.

Mike
 
With the headlights on and ignition in run, the cables did not get warm. I had the neg lead from the battery to the volt meter and all three circuits still read 12.2 volts, even though the lights went off and no power was evident anywhere.
Based in this, I guess you are saying that the cables are bad?
 
Now I would start looking for a ground problem. Use your jumper cables from the battery to the engine and see what happens.

Mike
 
Revised: Jumper cable from the battery neg terminal to the engine.

Mike
 
Mike, your the Man!! I tried to replace the ground from the starter bracket to the frame. The old one was pretty corroded. When I ran the jumper from the neg. post of the battery to the frame, it cranked up, or at least turned over. Now I am in the process of replacing the one from the battery to the frame. Thought I would get away without it, but still having problems.
I will let you know.
Thanks
 
Glad I could help!

Mike
ClassicCorvetteParts
(shameless plug)
 
Success. You have been great Mike working me through this. It has been awhile since I have had to come to this forum for help, but you guys are the best. I owe you when I come to Dallas. Beer, food? Maybe we can get Bud to come over when he gets to Amarillo? Been a while.

Thanks again Mike, let me know where we can meet up.
 

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