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No start problem

F

Franklin7911

Guest
I have a 94 Vette, which will not start, crankover, click..click, or anything resembling a start. As I turn the key through the different positions it acts normal, everything electrically functions, as I get to the starting postion nothing. I have read the other forums and pulled my starter and had it benched tested...checked fine. I have contacted several places around my local area and I am getting everything from VAT system to battery cable.

Before I proceed a little background, my car has 116,000 miles on it and I am pretty sure I have an original OPTI-SPARK in it and I know I need to replace that soon. I have been haveing this no start problem for about a couple of weeks, but I would let the car sit for a while an it would start up, either with a jump or just waiting. This pointed me to either the solinoid or some relay in the system. I bench checked the starter and the solinoid is part of it, so if I am right this should be good correct? I also looked at the wireing diagram in the Maintence Manuel at the dealership and found the "starter enable relay". Being that it was only $20 and I am grasping at anything to get my car running again, so I bought it. Slight problem the part is located somewhere on the firewall on the right side and I have not the foggyest idea where I should be looking to install this, if this is my problem at all. With all of this I have also changed the battery and now my car is in a definent no start condition. Any help would be very much appriciated I would at least like to drive my car to the mechanic instead of towing.

Thanks

Jeff
PS Yes it is an automatic and I do not think it is the Park Nuetral thing. And I have also tried my spare key.hilton.jeffrey@worldnet.att.net
 
hmm, thats definitly a eletrical problem,

umm,, im reading up on your model righ tnow on my corvette book, and there is a few things in it,,,,, it says,, check for ignition and battery supply to the ecm, or maybe,, check the ignition fuses

I think its a fuse,,

i was going to say, its your fuel realy switch or your fuel pump,, but, u said it just clicks, it done'st sit there and make a yin yin yin noise,, when u hold the key over,, maybe, u have a poor ground to something, tha thappends alot,, to corvettes,,but hey dont' forget,, corvetts relie on there ECM's, it sends a signal to your comptuer before it hits your starter,, most people dont know that, thats why in all corvette repair books changing out the ecm is the last result, ccuase,, it can do alot,, and a ecm can go back in certian areas, and not affect the rest of the car,,
 
I am sorry, but I forgot to mention that I am not getting any clicking sounds when I turn the key over at all. All so I forgot to mention there is evidence of arcing on the Relay box which holds the ignition fuses, the arcing is on the part where the juice flows. I am starting to think I am going to need to crank out the multimeter and the first place is the fuse box. I thought about elimnating that part out of my troubleshooting, because I had cleaned the ends, but who knows. Thank You for your reply.

Jeff
 
BAD VATS

Either your wiring is broke going up to the INTERNAL workings of the KEY SWITCH HOUSING.

The VATS is not seeing the resistance pellet in you key! FOR SURE

Questions
1) How sloppy is the fit fo the key in the cylinder?

2) How much slop is in the steering column?

3) Did this problem just start?

4) Do you own an OHM meter?

5) Can you solder?

6) Is there a Radio shack near by?

Read all pervious posts about VATS and we may proceede in either

a) The super low buck fix

b) The correct fix...more money...more hassel.

Vig!
 
I broke out a multimeter and did a continuity check from the ignition fuses to the battery, I think that would eliminate the evidence of an arc as being the culpret. As far as the problem, well this has been going on for seriously for about 2 weeks, most of the time a jump start would fix the problem. There were other times when it just fixed itself after 20 to 30 minutes. Now nothing. I just went out to the car to check all of the sloppiness and there is non at all. Everything feels to be tight. I do have a multimeter and know how to solder, even though it has been a couple of years. I just want to be able to start my car again, I read about the person who put 2 resisters in the starting system. How would I be able to verify that this is a VATS problem? Where do I look to get a "code checker"? And how much do those things run? Any ideas are greatly welcomed thank you.

Jeff
 
Resistor Key codes

Key Code Resistance in Ohms Acceptable Range in Ohms

1 402 386 - 438
2 523 502 - 564
3 681 650 - 728
4 887 850 - 942
5 1130 1085 - 1195
6 1470 1411 - 1549
7 1870 1795 - 1965
8 2370 2275 - 2485
9 3010 2890 - 3150
10 3740 3590 - 3910
11 4750 4560 - 4960
12 6040 5798 - 6302
13 7500 7200 - 7820
14 9530 9149 - 9931
15 11800 11328 - 12292

1) Measure the resistance on the key itself
2) Remove the hush panel under the drivers side
3) Locate the small 2 pin connector coming down from the column two of the wires will be white in a jacket the other two are colored.
4) Put the key in the ign
5) Get on the connector from the column side... is the resitiance the same? ( betting not )
6) Wiggle the key.. does the resistance change?

7) to Bypass..., solder the proper value resistor to the connector that is NOT coming from the steering column. and DO NOT RE CONNECT the line coming down from the column.

8) WAIT 5 MINUTES

9) Start ( Vroom )

Mike
 

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