No start well kind of.

[mystang]

Okay lets back up again. I replaced rear main and oil pan, car ran fine after, then replaced valve cover gaskets, car ran fine. still noticed the car leaking so after much search discovered i may want to take a look at intake manifold and oil pressure sending unit. Took out distributor and pulled manifold. Resealed manifold, but I took the TBI off of the manifold which I now understand was a big NO NO. Instead of putting it back together i went in for the timing chain cover as it was also leaking, after putting it all back together tried to crank. It would crank, but no dice would not start. So started messing with clocking of the distributor and still no go. Let it sit for a few minutes thinking maybe flodded.

I then go to crank it and it starts but stumbles for about 10 seconds. Did this three times. Finally was quick enough to get the timing light on it and when I would put it at 6 Deg. Before TDC it would just make a ppsh sound and Die. So tried this a couple more times then it cranked and ran "fine". Except it idled High at 6 Deg. BTC and the headers would start to glow red after a few minutes throwing the codes listed above. I checked the Map sensor ground and voltage as well as output voltage. All check out to be good. This is weird as it threw a map sensor code and a coolant temp code.


Then about a week later I took another stab at it and now it would even start on its own, but it will crank until the battery dies. So thinking that I may have messed up on the timing chain went back in and took a look and re verified that I have dot to dot aligment with both sprockets. Also made sure that I was not 180 Deg. out with the distributor. As in when dot to dot it was pointed at #6 on the cap. So any ideas hnoes?

 

[mystang]

Also I always have fuel, spark, oil pressure.

 

[G Winter]

My experience has been that glowing exhaust is cause by one of three things.

1 retarded timing

2 fuel mixture

3 restricted exhaust

My first step would be to take out number one plug crank to find compression stroke (slowly) align timing mark on zero.
Then check to see that rotor points to number one wire position. The way you checked dist. position rather confused me, made me think 180 deg off, but then it has been awhile since I have changed a timing gear. I might be all wet on this.

Glenn

 

[mystang]

I have been looking around, does anybody have a picture of this black rubber "manifold" that is bolted down on the passenger side of upper intake manifold "plate". It has a few vaccum lines (hard plastic) coming to it. I believe one connects to the egr valve, one that goes to the bottom of the passenger side TBI and there is one that has a metal clip on it facing the front of the engine, but I have no vaccum tube to go to it, Anybody know where this should go?

 

[mystang]

WTF!

Okay after rechecking everything mechanical for about the fourth time, I finally said screw it and got the car towed. I must say this is a first time for me not being able to figure out something, but I knew how it was reacting that mechanically it was perfect. I knew it had to be a sensor, and not having the correct tools to diagnose I had to send it to a shop. Well it turns out that the MAP sensor was the issue, now the chilton manual states that at a certain vaccum it should read 2 volts, well I had a hand vac pump and it read about 2.3 to 2.4 Volts. Most of the time they give you a range of voltage, so I figured it was good as it responded smoothly and quickly with change of vaccum. This was about four weeks ago, I even had a new one in my hand not but three feet from the car and returned it thinking it was not the issue :bash. So at this point the map sensor being the issue was last thing on my mind. I was more pissed at my self then anything, so I hope this helps somebody out with a similar issue.