Oh no.. The dreaded sleepy headlight.

[82ColEd]

For a weeks now i had a slowly raising headlight (passenger side). After starting the car, it would slowly go up and after driving for 2 minutes it would go all the way up.

Finally i had some time to check it out. After reading tons of stuff on the troubleshooting of the vacuum system, i performed a few tests, but i am unsure if my finding(s) are correct. If someone could verify my result and conclusion, before i order a part that would really help..

Here goes:
I checked the Vacuum at the manifold: Appears in the 18-20hg range.

The Filter right there is full of crap, so i will order one of those.

I further plugged my camping pump (it's a double pumper with in and out) into that side and pulled vacuum and it appears to start raising the driver side and the passenger side (slowly), so i am assuming the check valve is functioning.

I then checked the relays. First the passenger side and it appears to function (the pin inside goes in and out when vacuum is applied to the control port on the top). Same with the other side.

So i swapped them. Now, the passenger side barely makes it out of the hole for 1 inch and i got a hissing noise. hnoes

I then applied vacuum directly to the actuators. Passenger side: When applied to the front, it barely raises the light. Driver side: Easily comes up.

My assumption is the actuator is toast. Is that correct? Is it worth to take out and see WHAT is wrong? Or should i just order a new one ($90 + S&H)?

I might be able to order/get them here locally, but i havent checked yet.

Or am i missing something, and it's more likely the relay? I honestly dont know if i can take either apart with that ring around them that needs cutting and soldering back on.. :ugh

I should mention that the driver side actuator was replaced 15 years ago and still looks shiny, then passenger side is rusty and appears original, with color coded hoses.

Any advise would be appreciated...


-Stefan

 

[petes74ttop]

Vacuum Troubleshooting Guide

Try this link Vacuum Troubleshooting the text is good but the diagram is wrong at the headlight and pull down switch. PG.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

99% sure it's the front seal on the actuator. Easy fix, not neccessary to change the entire actuator

 

[GerryLP]

99% sure it's the front seal on the actuator. Easy fix, not neccessary to change the entire actuator

I concurr with Vettehead Mikey...

 

[82ColEd]

Try this link Vacuum Troubleshooting the text is good but the diagram is wrong at the headlight and pull down switch. PG.

Thanks Pete, thats the one i had found previously and used.

99% sure it's the front seal on the actuator. Easy fix, not neccessary to change the entire actuator

Mikey, we are talking the "HEADLIGHT ACTUATOR ROD SEAL

", pic from Zip:

right? Hiding under the Dust Boot. I'll see if the local guys have the parts here, else it's ordering time (maybe even an overnight across the planet hnoes from a US Shop)..

I concurr with Vettehead Mikey...

Thanks Gerry..

And as it snowed last night, i might have some time to get this sorted out. :eyerole..

I LOVE my 26 year old car..

-Stefan

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Mikey, we are talking the "HEADLIGHT ACTUATOR ROD SEAL

", pic from Zip:

right? Hiding under the Dust Boot. I'll see if the local guys have the parts here, else it's ordering time (maybe even an overnight across the planet hnoes from a US Shop)..

That's the one. Order two, your other actuator is probably on it's last legs also.

 

[82ColEd]

I must be psychic..

I talked to the local parts guys and they woud have to order it from the US, for 22 Euro per part (YOWZAH! thats $28 per little seal), and it would take 2-3 weeks to get there. So, thanks, but no thanks.

I placed an order with Zip and they just confirmed the order, which includes a Vacuum Filter, a Bypass Valve (i am having a feeling i'll need this one soon) and 2x Actuator Repair Kits, which includes the Rod Seal, the dust boot and the retainer. All in all $74 plus S&H. Let's see if they can get here soooooooon. :L


Thanks Gents! I'll post the results when i get the parts.


-Stefan

 

[82ColEd]

Wow, the speed from UPS you get when you pay top dollar.. Zip sent it out on Tuesday, for $55 and it arrived today.

Ok, couldnt wait until Saturday so i went under the car and got the actuator out. What a pita. The 4 bolts must have been in there since inception (or the early days of mankind). 2 came loose after massive prying, 2 only after WD40 them and letting them sit for 5 minutes and a banged knuckle. :eyerole

Yes it appears it's the rod seal, the bottom half is under the retainer ring, the upper cone shape was riding with the rod. The top of the dust boot is ripped and the hanger oners had a tear.

So, actuator out of the car: Check
Prying retainer off the bottom: Check

BUT: I cant get the O-Shape unscrewed off the rod. It's massively rusted on there and while trying i am starting to shave off metal off of the rod. ad

I sparyed some WD40 already. Any other tips? I dont have a heat-blow torch thing here. And of course i wanted to get it back in tonight so i can drive tomorrow. :eyerole (Always the optimist).

And btw, my wife is a good one: It's our 13 year 'meeting' anniversary and we're scheduled for dinner out tomorrow. But when iasked if she minded if i get to this tonight, she said, of course not.

So, anxiously awaiting any advise how to get the tip of the rod off so i can fix the actuator.

Tia!

-Stefan

 

[petes74ttop]

Not sure where your having trouble,
Pull the dust boot off-#Hdl-246
Bend 3 tabs up on the seal ring-#ZHDL-245
Remove seal ring and old seal.
Install new seal-HLD-224
New is held seal in place by putting on new ring and bending 3 tabs.
Then slide on new dust boot.
Hope this is what you need to know. PG.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

WD40 is NOT a good penetrating oil. Not sure what is available in Germany but I'm sure your auto parts store can advise. Let it soak for a few days and try again, twisting it gently in both directions.

If it snaps you'll need a new actuator.

 

[73shark]

Kroil made by Kano Labs is the best penetrant I've found. PB Blaster is also good. Good luck.

 

[82ColEd]

Not sure where your having trouble,
Pull the dust boot off-#Hdl-246
Bend 3 tabs up on the seal ring-#ZHDL-245
Remove seal ring and old seal.
Install new seal-HLD-224
New is held seal in place by putting on new ring and bending 3 tabs.
Then slide on new dust boot.
Hope this is what you need to know. PG.

Thanks Pete, but my issue is before getting to the fun part. I have a problem as the clevis is rusted onto the rod of the actuator..

Clevis:

The Clevis screws on top of the rod and it needs to go off before i can put the new seals on, else i am afraid they might stretch too much.. :ugh

WD40 is NOT a good penetrating oil. Not sure what is available in Germany but I'm sure your auto parts store can advise. Let it soak for a few days and try again, twisting it gently in both directions.

If it snaps you'll need a new actuator.

Good point. I guess, i check around at the store to see what they got. I think TecFlow is available..

Kroil made by Kano Labs is the best penetrant I've found. PB Blaster is also good. Good luck.

Thanks, but those arent available here..

I shall continue.. Thanks Guys..

 

[petes74ttop]

Now I see the problem, the clevis is stuck on the actuator shaft!
Welcome to the world of Corvette DIY projects, nothing is ever as easy as it seems.
There's always some snag!
Anyway hope you had a good dinner and special night out with your better half. PG.

 

[82ColEd]

Thanks to you all..

Bought some penetrating oil on the way home and sprayed it on the clevis. Had a nice time out with the wifey.

Tried to unwring the clevis on Saturday AM, no joy. More penetrating oil and i let it sit until Saturday around 14:00.. I used an adjustable clamp wrench to hold the shaft and a pipe wrench to twist off the clevis.. After a bit of mucking with it, it finally screwed off. :J

Tok me all of 2 minutes to get the new parts on it and the clevis back. Putting it all back took an hour. It helps to know where everything goes and how to twist the thing (and myself) into a pretzel under the car.

Then the big moment and it took 10 seconds after the driver side to come up, very slowly. But it came up all the way.. :confused

Then it hit me: I had swapped the relays too and never swapped them back. So i did and they now both come up, same speed, same time. Sweet. :cool

Only thing i need to fix is the final <KLACK> when the light goes into the elbow and overextends it. I thought it was the springs that hold the pin, which i had put on upside down (and what a pain they are to get in there), but i changed them to match the drivers side, still same effect.

But after a shacke down drive, where i noticed a improved idle as well. (It's really smooth now, while still a bit higher then i am used to). It dawned on me what the issue is:

The clevis isnt on there as much as it was, thus lengthening the shaft, which in turn doesnt let the elbow overextend into it's fixed position. It works great, but i need to fix that, as currently, one could push down on the light and get it to lower (if you were to force it against the vacuum). :nono

So, thanks gents for the pointers. Got more tools in the box again, and i learned a great deal about the vacuum system of the car. I think i might even consider understanding it.

Next weekend, i'll take out the actuator again to adjust the clevis. It shouldnt take me too long to do that.. :eyerole


Sorry for the long winding resolve, but i wanted to note down all the bits and bobs for the future user..


-Stefan

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Glad it all went well.